06 May 2010

Apparel Arts - The Summer of 1934

Published from 1931 - 1957, Apparel Arts was a large format (11x14) book sold to haberdashers and often displayed in store for consultation of both salesman and buyer. The Italian Gruppo GFT reprint of 1989 consists of three volumes in a slip case.

Volume 3 is a reprint of the Summer 1934 issue. Advertising opened the issue with editorial a good quarter of the way in. Advertising comes back at the end and closes the issue often with an ad for the sister magazine, Esquire. Much of the impact is lost on line due to the size and color of hard copy. They are a joy to hold and read.

Advertising kicks each issue off. There seems to be two types. Fantasy and informational.





For Trad combination go to opposing color on wheel above

The center circle is the suit, next circle the shirt options and outer circle is for neck wear. Not an "Outfit" selector as much as an inspiration of how color and pattern works.

If you can read a cookbook - you can cook. Same idea here.

Seersucker is still a great idea what with global warming. I'm convinced Satan wears it. I'm guessing it's half lined and bespoke.

Fabric samples came with the original issues but are replaced with photographs in the Gruppo reprint.

Not the kit for Summer tennis in my home town but man does does it look good.

Capper & Capper was at Wabash and Madison in the Chicago loop. Bought my first fedora there in 1988. Monogrammed sweat band done in the store. I'll never forget it.


Paul said...

Those color/pattern wheels are amazing! Matching things up for me is difficult - I usually have to see a photo or ad, and copy it exactly. Great posts.

Easy and Elegant Life said...

tintin, these last few posts of AA have been (awe)inspiring. As always, I am struck by the desire of the rag trade to have their clients look "smart" and sophisticated, not just "cool" and not like teenagers.

As this may be as close to that set as I'm likely to get, thank you for thinking of us.

Anonymous said...

Tintin - I think we should ask ADG for his Fuzzy Dice Combination color wheels, don't you? (And then get someone to re-launch Apparel Arts)

Family Man said...

Asking ADG for fashion advice is like asking a five-year-old to plan your menu for you.

tintin, thank you so much for the great AA posts. Please post more!

Laguna Beach Fogey said...

I can't stand it any longer. I want a set! Tintin, if you come across one offered in the local shops, please let me know. Cheers.

brohammas said...

I love these old advertising posters. I can't control myself and a full 1/3 of my artwork comes out with an element of this stuff in it.

ADG said...

Like asking a four year old!

tintin said...

Paul- Those wheels are amazing. A great shorthand and easily tweeked for use today.

Chris- I think the word 'cool' and the resulting behaviour of those who desire it is a big reason the world is so screwed up today.

Anon- ADG could use a wagon wheel.

Family Man- Now we all can't wear fuzzy dice but we can all wear ecru.

LBT- I assume price is no object? After all...we are talking NYC.

brohammas- I agree there's huge inspiration in this stuff. I gotta learn how to trace.

ADG- Next time you're in NY I'll buy you a PB & J for lunch.

Anonymous said...

That was a great collection of AA. The 3-volume series was hard to find. I wish they would do another anniversary reprint. AA was a great menswear journal. It defined men's wardrobe through styling, lifestyle, and fabrications. It gave great history on apparel. What do we have now?

tintin said...

Anon 21:14 Bupkis.

pwlsax said...

Amazing how almost all of the gents depicted are moustache wearers - far more than the general population of the day. And at least half are silver-haired. It makes sense that in the depression, no one much under forty had any money to spend, and those who had could set the fashions. Youth had little to do with it outside of the Ivy League.