Don't Lose the Dignity of the Day

Photographer Unknown  US Air Force  ARVN Jump over Tay Ninh Province 

Denim & Supply - Ralph Lauren

SP/4 Salvador Romero 151st Infantry LRRP

Denim & Supply - Ralph Lauren

Photo by Mark Jury:  Fire Support Base Wood

Denim & Supply - Ralph Lauren

US Army Photo: Capt.  Gerald Devlin, 44th ARVN Ranger Bn.

Denim & Supply - Ralph Lauren

Marine Corps Photographer Sgt. David E. Weimer


Cheapen uniforms of those who served and died by the uneducable and characterless who dress up as a soldier one day and a cowboy the next.

Get Grahame Fowler

Get it?

I want it.

Grahame's Sub (nfs). Benrus Military 1972 and 1978 ($2k & $1,800)

The dog gets it.

I get it.

Get some?

Only place to get Trickers in NYC

If you don't get this...

...you don't get these.

Get shirts. On sale.

J Crew gets it. Turns it into a beach towel for people who don't get it.

How do I get it?

Chuka & Grahame- Out of focus but edgy. I know they get it.

Already got some

$15,000 will get it.

Get your fourth point of contact to 138 W 10th St in the Village. You should have to pay admission. Unless you show proof of getting it. If you dig the Tommy, Ralph and Mickey show - best to stay away. If you're fluent in authentic. You're gonna be very happy here. There's even a sale going on.

When a designer slaps the 3rd Infantry Regiment patch on a pair of cargo shorts - - you can rest assured they don't get it. Even though they have a legal department that should. A legal department whose motto should read, "Better to beg forgiveness than ask permission."

You will find no apologies here. This is home to a soul shaking realness that - today - few seem to understand. It reeks of an intelligence, wit and sophistication that will, if you're brave enough to enter, change how you look at clothing and perhaps yourself.

The expression, "He's all hat and no horse" is apt for those who think nothing of slapping badges and patches on themselves. That they didn't earn it isn't nearly as bad as, they don't even know what it is. It's a sad commentary about today but I beg you to stop by and see Grahame's shop. If for nothing else - to offer us all hope in the face of this.

The Friday Belt- Single Malts & Stable Belts

The Stable Belt The Stable Belt for civilians

Stable Belt Details


Another Favorite Belt
Just a wee dram, yea?

The Laphroaig Distillery

Nice to see where my hangover was born

A big thank you to Jonty F! Whoever you are. Jonty F recently commented on a post regarding the Regimental Belt. Jonty provided a lot of detailed history and it kicked me off on some research and some memories. Certainly this belt I'm wearing echoes the military version of the Stable Belt. I just wish I could find an assortment more like this. If I were one of those Big Blouse fashion designers I'd be knocking these off for years. It's wider than a surcingle and it's adjustable. Perfect for the larger belt loops of today. And perfect for my waist as I discover how to add bacon to just about any dish.

I remember catching a glimpse of a Stable Belt worn by Sergeant Major Scully during Canadian Jump School. Located outside Edmonton, the school was segregated into French and English speaking. Scully ran the English side. He was average height but built with a thick chest that gave him a permanent lean forward. One day the head of the French side disappeared and a young French Canadian walked up to Scully and asked him something... in French. Scully took the last cigarette out of a box of Export A's, threw the empty box at the kid which bounced off his helmet and yelled, "Chevrolet Coupe! That's all the effing French I know!" Scully used another word for effing but you get the point.

Traditional clothing has always borrowed from the military. "Inspired" is a word I'm fond . It bothers me to no end when a designer steals insignia men died wearing. Why steal unit insignia when the history of the military is so full of ideas that, like the Stable Belt, a civilian version can be done with taste and respect. Hell, I think the consumer would think more of the apparel if he was clued into it's past. You build loyalty as well as a relationship. Just ask the Scots about single malts.

Single Malts have a fanatical base of supporters who take distillery tours and spend small fortunes on something they're gonna drink and waz only a couple hours later. I must admit to having a thing for Laphroaig and it's home, Islay. Haven't been there yet but I do see the attraction. To taste a place...that French word (pardon me, SGM Scully), terroir...which I can never say without feeling like an asshole...That's what Laphroaig is all about. Smokey and peaty like the sky in this You Tube video. The taste of the sea- - like raw oysters and a cold Manzanilla Sherry. Man, that's living. I always enjoyed Laphroaig with a cigar but it's getting almost impossible nowadays. Still, it's probably better that way. Come the right moment - - it'll be appreciated.

The US Army, fashion and... Sears?

Above is the unit insignia for the 1st Infantry Division. Soon to be sold next to Kenmore washing machines, Craftsman tools and Die Hard batteries.

Below is Trad Dad as a young enlisted man drawing a sentiment popular among young enlisted men when they've been in the Army for more than a day.

Samuel Johnson wrote, "Every man thinks more meanly of himself for having never been a soldier."

The US Army and Sears's have taken Johnson to heart and are giving the customer what he wants. Say you're the kinda guy who likes war movies and snappy uniforms but you really don't want to get shot. Now you can run...No, make that, Airborne Shuffle to Sears and with the Army's blessing you can pretend you were in the 1st Infantry Division. That's right, The Big Red One. Shirts, backpacks, outerwear...all with 1st ID's insignia. I suspect very soon you'll be able to buy jump wings, marksmanship badges and a combat infantry badge if this product website is any indication. http://www.armybrand.com/

I have a sense the Army and Sears are dipping their toe in the water of branding. If we all roll over and allow this nonsense to continue without complaint I see some great ideas down the road. How about the Sears brand, "Die Hard" stenciled on tanks? Man, I feel like Don Draper here. Army issued boxers? Joe Boxer of course. Headquarters Intelligence divisions once known as "G-2" will be known as "Craftsmen." I'm actually getting nauseous.

Funny thing. The Army, thanks to me, sent a letter to Polo Ralph Lauren telling them to take product with Army insignia off their shelves immediately. You can get some major fines as well as up to six months in jail. I don't see Ralph in a orange jump suit eating bologna sandwiches but you never know. I'd give my right testicle to work for Polo but I thought, "Screw 'em. This is not right." So I dropped a dime on them.

Now, I feel like a schmuck. Little did I know the Army and DoD were cooking a deal with Sears. Here's an interesting angle... will the Army use its legal counsel to protect Sears products featuring Army insignia? Wow, Sears secures legal services at tax payer expense. Which begs the question...why Sears? Anyone who was ever in the Green Machine knows how incompetent the Army is. But Sears? As my Drill Sergeant might opine, "If you turned Sears brains into gasoline you wouldn't have enough to power a piss ant motorcycle half way 'round a fucking dime."

That gives me a great idea. The Army can include a booklet (tagged to a trouser belt loop with suspension cord) filled with earthy quotes and jargon so customers can complete the illusion of having served. Soon a 13 year old will complain about school being FUBAR and salesmen at B&H Photo will argue over some REMF in their A.O.

To add insult to this injury, Sears has said they are giving the Army the "proceeds" from the sale of product. So, no bitching people. This is for a gosh darn good cause. But some news stories are using the word "Royalty." Hmmm? Anytime you see "Royalty" you can be sure some asshole stands to make a fortune.

When I was in the Army there was a popular expression, "F.T.A." meaning, "Blank the Army." I haven't used it in years. But thanks to this Cluster Blank, I may have to blow the dust off it. Lastly, my apologies to Ralph Lauren for what I did. I feel like I was used by an organization that I used to admire. I guess some things never do change.

The Best Chinos

I recently found these trousers and I gotta tell you...they are something else. As close to the US Army Khaki as I've ever seen. Straight leg with flat front. Close attention to detail with the watch pocket as well as the belt loops. Very accurate to Army issue. Even the buttons...while not perfect come very close. I'll replace them with my old buttons. Cut from a hefty, 9.6 ounce cotton. They're the real deal.

Made by Polo. In China.

I kid you not. They're the best damned khakis I've ever owned. And they'll be perfect when I replace those buttons with the real McCoy. Better than Bills. Better than Bean, Brooks, Press, Duck Head, Land's End...Better than Uncle Sam. They list for $98 but you can find 'em for $39...if you look hard. They're not everywhere but as you run your hand across the countless cheap chinos hanging from a rack be prepared for something that doesn't feel right. That's what you're looking for. Substance. Heft. Quality.

A quick note. They're described on the tag as, "Polo GI Pant" which I have no issue with. No insignia. No problem. However, the description says, "...inspired by WWI military surplus garments." What are you guys smoking over there? The US Army chino came outta WWII. God's in the details. Still, they're damned good.

Ralph Lauren Marine Corps

Semper Fi, Ralph.

Ralph Lauren and the US Army

I came across these shorts in Florida. Now, I don't want to beat a dead horse but what is happening at Polo? I love their Madras shorts. I'm the proud owner of three Purple Label suits. If it wasn't for Polo a lot of wonderful Trad clothing would disappear. However, what is their obsession with Military inspired clothing during a war? Some designer has decided to take The Old Guard patch and sew it on the posterior of a pair of "Emergency Sustenance" shorts.

Who is the Old Guard? Ever see the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier? That's the Old Guard. The Old Guard buried my Grandfather at Arlington National Cemetery. Is this some one's idea of a joke? I'm a pretty liberal guy. Never voted Republican. Hell, I've worked on two Democratic campaigns but I'm not taking this crap anymore.

I have to assume since the people who serve in the military would never wind up a designer at Polo that some idiot did this while flipping through a book of unit patches and thought, "Wow, cool patch."

It's not just Polo. Someone out there saw the XVIII Airborne Corps unit patch and decided that it looked cool. They've sewn it on the right shoulder of a "puffer" coat. A unit patch on the right shoulder has some pretty heady meaning in the Army. It's the unit you served in combat with. I saw this coat at the corner of 57th Street and 2nd Avenue a couple months ago. I was with the girlfriend when I approached the young man wearing my old unit patch to ask him when he was in XVIII Airborne Corps. The girlfriend tugs at my arm and says, "Please don't." I replied, "What?" She says, "I know what you're going to do and I beg you...please don't. Not here."

So I didn't. But I'm gonna start. Fair warning to those of you who wear this shit.

Surplus Ersatz at Bergdorf

I stand open mouthed at the article of clothing above in the Polo Department at Bergdorf Goodman. A sales clerk approaches.
Clerk: Isn't that a great looking jacket?
Me: Actually, I think it's obscene.
Clerk: (With a, "Oh, shit." expression) Uh, well. Why is that, sir?
Me: They're knocking off uniforms. That ain't right.
Clerk: You know, I asked my manager if we've ever had complaints and he said, no. Maybe if we were in West Virginia it would be different.
Me: Why is that?
Clerk: 'Cause they're more patriotic than New Yorkers I guess.
Me: You know, some men died wearing this stuff. Don't you think it's a little...I don't know...
Clerk: No, I know what you mean. Still, no one complains. You're in the minority.
Me: I guess so.
Made in China by the way. By Communists. Odd that.