Charlie Davidson and The Andover Shop

"Who wants to look like a fucking Polo window." Charlie Davidson

The heavy mother

The customer didn't return to Poole

Charlies new silk sport coat

"I'm not wearing it til next year...it needs some time to hang..." C.D.

The details

Shirting does not get any better

Charlie's B-24 and Bud Collin's goods

Davidson Law

2nd floor work room

More shirts

My steal - WWII style khakis

Friday Belt material

It fits

About a month ago I was talking to Alan Flusser about this idea I have. He asked me if I'd been to the Andover Shop in Boston. I told him no. He asked why not. I told him I was scared shitless of Charlie Davidson.

A long story short-- I met Charlie yesterday morning in his shop on 22 Holyoke Street in Cambridge. He asked that I spare him from talking about clothes. So we talked about jazz, the army (he served on a B-24 in WWII) and women. He told me Paul Desmond baby sat Chet Baker and that there was a story about Desmond and a woman who broke his heart.

We talked a lot about Anita O'Day. Charlie had known O'Day since he was 16. I ask about Billie Holliday not being able to stand O'Day. "Shit," Charlie says, "they all hated each other." We talk about Brubeck and Jamal. Charlie tells me Miles Davis would sit in the corner downstairs and critique Charlie measuring up a customer. "Those sleeves are too long, Charlie."

And out of nowhere Charlie points to an English hunting jacket hanging behind me. "Bring that over." I lift it off the rack and it's a heavy mother. Charlie shows me the Poole Savile Row tag in the pocket with the date, 1914 and tells me, "The customer had it made before leaving for WWI. He never came back."

This is not just another haberdasher. There's history here but there's a world of advice, wisdom and counsel. I tell Charlie the English have a phrase for what he and I are. "Clothes mad. We just love clothes. All kinds of clothes." Charlie nods and says it's a good phrase. He repeats it, 'Clothes mad..." like he was trying it on. He looks at me and we both laugh.

I asked Charlie if I could take his picture. He said, "Just for you. I'd prefer if you didn't..." I interrupt, "No, I understand. They'll be just for me." And so they are. And so was the day.

Otter's Sweater - Pink Shetland

I will not quote this scene but be assured I know the line. I was hugely impressed by Animal House and by Otter's wardrobe. I still am. My Anodover isn't quite the pink in the scene with Mrs Wormer but it looks great with a dark grey - almost black - pair of flannels. In today's world it's casual without looking like you work in a gas station.

Off My Back: Pink & Green & Rose'

A unique pink & green

Maybe too unique

Not so great pattern matching

Best to hide it

Shetland Label

Shirt Label

My favorite label

The sister plaid to the Winter acorn. Again, made by Individualized Shirts and a fabric Wright & Simon owner, Len Simon claimed no one had ordered in donkey years. Picking shirt fabric from small swatches is a tricky (and expensive) business. It helps to select from bolts but we're not all hanging out on the second floor at Charvet.

I like the shirt but it reminds the Golf Foxtrot of something Eddie in National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation would wear. "Clark, that's the gift that keeps on giving." Once again, Individualized came up short on the pattern matching. The front placket is off although not by much. Still, I'm hard pressed to find this problem with 'Made in China' shirts. I'm not talking sleeve to yoke matching. This is the front placket for Pete's sake.

Anyway, I hid it. Pretty darned well I think. These last few brisk days shuffled with occasional balmy afternoons require a wool sweater or two be left in the Spring closet. This pink Andover Shetland takes that plaid down a notch or two from Eddie's closet in the R.V. and puts the look square in Clark Griswold's realm. I always thought Sparky was a pretty good dresser.

There's been some grumbling about the MIA status of hooch around here on Fridays. To that end, here's a vintage Rose' from a wine maker who knows hand made from schmatta. The 1998 Vina Tondonia Rose' hails from a Spanish vineyard where wine is still made like it was in 1877. No chemicals, pesticides or machines. Harvesting? By hand. Racking? By hand. Barrel Making? By hand. I think $25 is a more than fair price for all that.

There's a fruit forward punch to this Rose' that'll knock you off your keister if you drink it too warm. This really needs to be chilled and kept that way so make your pours small. Nice with some almonds and olives on a Saturday afternoon. Even better with a marinated flank steak and red skin potatoes roasted with garlic and rosemary. Hell, who cares about pattern matching - - just get me to the weekend.