Showing posts with label Schmatta. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Schmatta. Show all posts

18 March 2011

Building Schmatta

For those of you who missed Andrew Dolkart's lecture Wednesday night - have no fear. I'll share my notes. I realize it's late on Friday but based on my Site meter there are a few of you who check The Trad out after work. This is also a senior level class. The penny and the Ray Bans? That's for Freshmen. If you're really clothes mad -- Follow me -- The garment infantry.

347 West 35th Street

Garment workers and their bosses were moved north from lower Broadway and 5th Avenue over a 30 year period at least three times. The reason? Too damn many of them. At lunch the streets were jammed with workers -- more or less just hanging out.

Retailers couldn't stand them (there's irony for you) and were instrumental in shoving the industry further north and west to it's final resting place today -- Roughly 5th to 9th Avenues from 34th Street to 42nd Street. For me, the sweet spot is 34th and 36th between 7th and 9th Avenues.


Buildings were concrete with large windows to allow light for sewing and cutting. One and sometimes two freight elevators were located at either end of the building. Lobby's were small (where's the damned lobby picture?) and narrow.

Interior of 347

Loft space was set up for cutting and sewing tables with men who were cutters closest to the windows for the best light.


Sewing machines would be back here in the dark but each machine had it's own light. A clue to identify loft buildings still used for manufacture are really filthy windows. Which is how I found this building.


Ok, here's the lobby. See? Real small. And this is common in almost all of these garment buildings.


I made the mistake of researching the district on St Patrick's Day.

Mostly hammered high school kids. I assume their parents think of them as 'best friends' which explains why they're wandering around Manhattan drunk when they're 16. My dad didn't tell me he liked me as a friend until I was 44.


Many garment buildings included space for ground level retail. These mannequins were far more animated than the high school kids.


There's a huge variety -- Some of it I don't understand


The Fashion Tower located at 135 West 36th Street is the only building with details unique to apparel.


The angel holds scissors here...


And a painter's palette here. There's more to see but it was covered in scaffolding. In fact, I'd say about 80% of the garment district buildings were covered in scaffolding.


Most of the retailers serve the trade. I have a buddy who found Tiffany blue boxes in one of these stores and uses them...Never mind.


260 West 35th Street is a favorite.


So is 225 West 34th. Fair warning...staring up at these buildings can get you run over by any number of push carts coming down the sidewalk. They're still around.


Hotels housed the buyers in the day. Right out their hotel door they could visit a huge array of manufacturers while saving time and shoe leather.


The '20s and '30s are everywhere in the district. And not a spec of it is phony. That's the amazing thing.


You just have to know what you're looking for...


and where to find it.


I love it down here.

22 October 2009

Joe Raico and Schmatta

Joe Raico from HBO's, Schmatta


Anon,
Do you still think $300 for a pair of shoes made in the US is too much to spend?