Showing posts with label Blind Oxford Tasting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Blind Oxford Tasting. Show all posts

02 September 2010

The Blind Oxford Tasting


The idea was to review another staple like a chino. I picked the blue oxford button down for many reasons. One was the wide variance of blue oxford by makers. A shallow light blue in one shirt while another may have a deep blue that goes on forever.

It's an everyday shirt that can be dressed up or down. Few are made in the US and those that are will set you back. I allowed one off shore shirt and one alpha sized shirt. The results between these two are surprising.

Each shirt had all tags removed and was numbered 1-5. I washed the shirts three times and then had them professionally laundered with no starch. The shirts were issued at a lunch I hosted last week at a nice little Italian place where I had an amazing plate of grilled octopus but that's another story.

Robert Bryan and G. Bruce Boyer returned as judges after their success with the Blind Chino Tasting. This time our judges wore the shirts thanks to a criticism rightfully made about sizes with the chinos. And like everything else, what fits one judge perfectly does not fit another as you'll see.

I didn't get any shirts but I got to take all the labels off - - which was more fun than you can imagine.

Blind Oxford Tasting: No. 1

$95 (1st time customer $88.75) available from Mercer & Sons - Shirt #1

Collar: Unlined 3 7/16" collar with full roll and large tie space.
Body: Single needle stitching with one piece yoke. 24 1/2" wide x 29 1/2" long on 15-4.
Sleeves/Cuffs: Single needle except cuff with 9" wide sleeve and one cuff button.
Pocket: 5" with 'V' stitch.

G. Bruce Boyer (15 1/2 - 2)
"Very good cloth, nice rich color, but would be better with a slightly tighter weave."

The Goods-
Color: A
Weave: B
Hand: A
Weight: A
Quality: A

Robert Bryan (15-4)
"Crude button holes. Much too wide body. Very nice color - bit deeper blue. Neck small."

The Goods-
Color: A
Weave: B
Hand: B
Weight: B
Quality: B

Mercer makes the only ready-made unlined collar. Judges agreed on the perfect oxford blue which has amazing depth to it. While Bryan was put off by the wide body and crude button hole stitching...Boyer rated it Most Traditional, Best Overall and Best Value adding, "It's simply the best shirt, at any price."

Blind Oxford Tasting: No. 2

$89.95 available from O'Connell's - Shirt #2

Collar: Lined 3 1/4" with full roll and medium tie space.
Body: Double stitch side seams with split yoke. 23" wide x 28" long on 15-4.
Sleeves / Cuffs: Double stitch sleeves with 8 1/2" wide sleeve and one cuff button.
Pocket: 5" with 'V' stitch.

G. Bruce Boyer (15 1/2 - 2)
"Right in the middle. Average cloth, nothing outstanding. Typical quality."

The Goods-
Color: B
Weave: B
Hand: C
Weight: C
Quality: C

Robert Bryan (15-4)
"Okay overall. Body too wide. No extra buttons. Button holes crudely finished."

The Goods-
Color: B
Weave: B
Hand: C
Weight: C
Quality: C

Made in US by Fall River Shirt Company. A beautiful collar roll in a heavy weight oxford with narrow sleeves and a wide body. One of two shirts with a split yoke.

Blind Oxford Tasting: No. 3

$35.50 Hyde Park available from Lands' End - Shirt #3

Collar: Lined 3 1/8" collar with slight roll and narrow tie space with double needle stitching.
Body: Single needle with split yoke and hanger loop. 21 1/2" wide x 28 1/2" long on 15-4.
Sleeves/ Cuffs: Single needle cuff with 9" wide sleeve and one cuff button.
Pocket: 4 5/8" with 'V' stitch.

G. Bruce Boyer (15 1/2 - 2)
"Mediocre, ordinary cloth, average quality."

The Goods-
Color: B
Weave: B
Hand: C
Weight: C
Quality: C

Robert Bryan (15-4)
"No complaints. Love the back loop. Nice cuff treatment. Nice extra buttons. Like slimmer body."

Color: B
Weave: B
Hand: B
Weight: B
Quality: B

Robert Bryan awards the new Hyde Park Most Traditional and Best Overall. Upon discovering the price he added Best Value. Made in Malaysia, the Hyde Park is an attractive shirt with detailed button hole stitching and a trimmer fit than the other four. It is the only shirt with a locker loop (can be added on Mercer) and double needle stitching (-) on the collar.

Blind Oxford Tasting: No. 4

$79.50 (3 /$199) available from Brooks Brothers - Shirt # 4

Collar: Lined 3 1/4" collar with slight roll and wide tie space.
Body: Single needle stitching with one piece yoke. 22" wide x 30" long on 15-4.
Sleeves/Cuffs: Single stitched cuff with 9" wide sleeve and one cuff button.
Pocket: 4 7/8" wide with 'V' stitch.

G. Bruce Boyer (15 1/2 - 2)
The best cloth. Very good slate blue color. Tight weave and ideal weight.

The Goods-
Color: A
Weave: A
Hand: A
Weight: A
Quality: A

Robert Bryan (15-4)
Horrible, clumsy collar. Nice shirt tails. Cheap sleeves and cuff. Nicely finished pocket. Color too gray-blue.

The Goods-
Color: C
Weave: B
Hand: A
Weight: A
Quality: B

On sale the Brooks Brothers, US made, classic Polo oxford is a formidable value. People either love the color of the blue oxford or hate it.

Blind Oxford Tasting: No. 5

$149.00 available from the Orvis Heritage Collection - Shirt #5

Collar: Lined 3 1/8" collar with a slight roll and narrow tie space.
Body: Single needle stitching with one piece yoke. 23 1/2" wide x 29" long for Medium.
Sleeves/Cuffs: Double stitched cuff with 10 1/2" wide sleeve and two cuff buttons.
Pocket: 5 1/4" wide with straight stitch.

G. Bruce Boyer (Medium)
"Completely ordinary and indistinguishable from other average shirts."

The Goods-
Color: B
Weave: B
Hand: C
Weight: C
Quality: C

Robert Bryan (Medium)
"Okay, but hate the near straight cut bottom. Button holes rough. Sleeve length too long."

The Goods-
Color: A
Weave: B
Hand: C
Weight: B
Quality: B

The most expensive shirt of the tasting and the only Alpha size (M,L,XL) as opposed to individual neck/sleeve. The Gitman Bros website offers a MTM version for $10 less and a individual sized version for $110.

31 August 2010

Blind Oxford Tasting

Stay tuned for the lowdown on the button down and the identity of the judge who warned, "Lets not encourage the world - which is already lost - to call any shirt with a button front a button down."