Dead or Alive: 25 Best Dressed (Full Article)

Esquire Gentlemen S/S 1993, Woody Hochswender - Editor











(click on image to enlarge)

The World's Best Dressed Man

Alan Flusser featured 25 of the best dressed men (living or dead) in Esquire's Gentleman issue - Summer, 1993. Sadly, he missed one. Not just a well dressed man but, as a certificate from the Swiss Tailor's Guild announced, "The World's Best Dressed Man." Even his shirts bore 'W.B.D.M.' monograms. I'm not sure how this man could have slipped by Flusser. Unless of course the monogram was on his cuff.

Khaibar Khan Goodarzian was, in 1961, man about town -- a man's man --a man of style, substance and, "550 suits, 50 tuxedos, a dozen full-dress outfits, several hundred pairs of shoes, lots of silk underwear and handkerchiefs from Sulka, $750,000 worth of jewelry and four rare and costly oriental rugs." or so says the proof of loss statement provided to the Continental Insurance Company.

Goodarzian claimed he was the hereditary chieftain of a northern Iranian tribe called the Bakhitari. An investigation revealed the humble roots of a dispatcher in a British Army motor pool. Still, New York City opened it's arms and charge accounts to Goodarzian. Parties at El Morocco, haberdashers and department stores, all on credit.

The "fire" (you knew there was gonna be a fire) occured late one night in his two bedroom apartment. Actually, it was a one bedroom apartment with a bedroom converted to a closet. A witness saw Goodarzian removing clothes from his apartment the day before the fire. And there was the testimony that, during a party at the apartment the same night of the fire, Goodarzian was upset when butane containers were late in arriving.

Good luck prevailed after Goodarzian disappeared with the butane containers in his bedroom but rejoined his guests and moved the party to a nightclub. It would be seven years before Goodarzian would learn his case, Saks & Co. et al. v Continental Ins. Co. et al., named after the creditors, would pay him nothing. A few years later, the W.B.D.M. was deported. I have no idea where.

George Frazier: Lobb or Peal?

From 1993's, 'Esquire Gentleman' 25 Best-Dressed Men (Living or Dead) by Alan Flusser

Flusser has Frazier in custom Peals but the letter from John Lobb in London confirms Frazier's payment plan mentioned in, Another Man's Poison. Whether this is at the exclusion of custom Peals, who knows.


John Lobb letter regarding Frazier's monthly payments (click image to read)

In 1981, Flusser's review of John Lobb hints at a drop in quality, rigidness over the house aesthetic and a long turnaround.

"Lobb shoes used to be considered without peer, but in recent years the firm has lost many of its older workmen and the product has suffered. It is still an excellently hand-crafted shoe, but in my opinion it doesn't quite compare to the shoes made by Lobb, Paris, its French brother. The London shop, in addition, is too inflexible about styling. It wants the shoe to look the way it wants, and it also wants six months to make it."
Alan Flusser, Making The Man, 1981

Did Frazier have both Peal and Lobb make his shoes? I'm not sure he could afford both. He was always having problems with money. Then again, maybe this is why. Or, was Flusser reluctant to mention Lobb due to perceived issues of quality. Who knows. Who cares. I just wanted an excuse to put up that letterhead.

Gilt Loves Go To Hell

(Gilt photo by Rose Callahan)

Gilt MANual included GTH Pants as one of its Men's Essentials (No. 49 if you're counting). A photo shoot at Alan Flusser's studio was the most fun I've had with my clothes on. Alan changed three times for us while we took over his studio with more lights and tripods than a Bruce Weber shoot. Heady stuff. Great images. Go check 'em out here.

The Friday Belt : Flusser's Dry Manhattan

A retired FBI agent, Mr. Page, teaches sex crimes in the Florida Police Standards Course (police academy) and would weave his bizarre sense of humor into lectures. "There's a man in Jacksonville who can't get an erection unless there's a blue feather sticking in his ass." Half hour later Page pulls back his suit jacket to reveal a blue feather sticking out of his shirt pocket.

Page is at his lectern one afternoon, "A cop in Daytona was in high speed pursuit when he crashed into a wall. Horrible. Poor bastard was unconscious for months. He came to and was starving but could only mumble, 'Ah ghata eett sompun.' The doc says, "You gotta eat something?" 'Ya!' says the cop. 'But your mouth is wired shut due to the operation.' says the Doc. 'Am starvin!" says the cop. 'Okay' says the doc. 'I guess we could feed you through your rectum.' 'Enethen!' says the cop.

So they set the cop up in bed and raise his posterior. The doc puts a clamp in his ass and winds it open. The doc asks the cop, 'Is there anything you'd like to start with?' Cop says, 'I alwayz lik a cuppa coffee for ah start a meal.' Doc says, 'A cup of coffee?' Cop says, 'Ya.'

A nurse hands the doc a cup of coffee and he pours it into the cop's rectum. 'Schtooop! Da pain...etz too muucch!' screams the cop. 'Too hot?' says the doc. 'No.' says the cop... 'Too sweet.'

I still don't get it.


I covered the 'Manhattan' cocktail here in the first Friday Belt. Sazerac rye ($27) and Carpano Antica vermouth ($31) with bitters. Today, thanks to my new economy, we're gonna do a Manhattan for less than half of what we did it for over two years ago. I think it's better. Not too sweet. You with me? Good.


The problem is the vermouth. It's sweet. You need a bone dry rye to remedy that. Old Overholt is about as dry as you'll find. A perfect rye for the Manhattan and cheap as dirt. Between $10 to $15. A bunch of new rye is being heavily marketed and it's insanely overpriced. I suppose to pay for all that marketing. You may be inclined to think these brands are pouring coffee down your... but take comfort -- they'll be found out for what they are.



I used Dolin Rouge vermouth for two reasons. It's not sweet at all and it has history. They've been making this stuff with the same recipe since 1821. And while I would not be inclined to drink Overholt straight -- Dolin Rouge is fantastic with a little ice or sipped like a port.

Bitters, while expensive for what they are, last forever. They're the hidden value because they have such an impact on the drink. I used Fee Brothers West Indian Orange and Whiskey Barrel Aged. A shake of each is damned plenty.


If you're a Maker's Mark Manhattan drinker give the dry Manhattan a try. It's highly evolved and a very smart buy. Last Friday I was pretending to be highly evolved when I received an email from a designer friend. "You going to this flusser sample sale? 246 5th at 28th. 5th Floor." Never too proud to be out of the loop, I write back, "Flusser sample sale?!"



I'm out the door and burning down street when I get more details. Lot's of suits, shirts, socks, belts but no shoes. I get there and am astounded to see some 30 bolts of wool and cotton. The designer snags a beautiful bolt of madras that I'm sure you'll see in Saks SS/2012. Some guy with a strange accent throws on a white linen patch pocket sport jacket with side vents. Fits him like a glove.


I found a belt. But for me - it's a belt I've coveted ever since I saw it on my first visit to Flusser's shop. I cried about it here in an earlier Friday Belt post. Unable to afford this croc-surcingle master piece when I was flush -- somehow it finds its way back to me when I'm poor. Any hump can parade into Polo or Hilfiger and buy seven of these, 12 of those and slap down the platinum card. But when you find something you loved, but had to walk away from -- and you find it again and make it yours -- You're tempted to wear it everyday.

The 'Clock Sock'

Apparel Arts Magazine - Summer 1932

The hose selection is at five o'clock. On the bottom of the left page is the kit with the clock sock closest to my own. It suggests two ties at 10 & 2 o'clock. I prefer 2 o'clock. I'm guessing that's a white linen jacket (center top) with gray wool trousers (center bottom), a blue shirt (8 o'clock) and white bucks (6 o'clock).


Clothes and the Man by Alan Flusser - 1985

Flusser gives the easiest to understand advice about socks I've ever read. You're not going to find anything that sums up the wearing of hose better than this. In today's retail establishments socks are kept far away from suits. Sometimes on another floor. I remember going to pick up a suit at Britches of Georgetown in the '80s and the salesman would have my suit and a couple shirt and tie options with hose spread out on a billiards table in the back of the store. I didn't appreciate then. I'd really appreciate it now.

The Trad's Sock Drawer - Spring 2011

I've only become a fan of the 'Clock Sock' in the last six or so years. At first glance they reminded me of those nasty socks worn by skinny southern men with long necks in plastic and wire frame glasses and who, you were pretty darned sure, wore white sheets on weekend nights.

I've come around after seeing them in Apparel Arts Magazine. Mine are embroidered wool but feather light. They exude a '30s charm of discreet pattern and quiet elegance known only to the wearer, the man who shines his shoes and the woman who takes them off.

Friday Belts

It's been a while hasn't it? Well, when it rains it pours.

I stopped by to pass on good news to a designer when he started pulling books off his shelves and out of filing cabinets. I've seen a lot of historical ephemera on men's apparel but that book up there blew my mind, cleaned my clock and stole my girlfriend. Used as a trade catalog in 1926, nothing was better said by an employee, "If a guy couldn't sell with this book he was brain dead." Or something to that effect.

This is where I'm supposed to tell you the name of the book. Some of you are probably expecting a link to the book's listing on Alibris. And I would imagine there are a few of you who expect me to buy the book for you while I help you blow your nose. Let me get my handkerchief...

Welch-Margetson & Co. Ltd. Thumb indexed and hard covered with lots of color plates. Back in 2004 a lucky buyer picked up four hard cover and three paperback catalogs from Christies for $1,051. Keep a look out but until then check out more images from W-M on the blog, "The Age of Uncertainty." He won't help you blow your nose but he'll sell you a book.

Left to Right: De Ville D+, Montmartre B+, St Remy B-, Blansac B, Chatelle C-

I was reading about popular drinks in the 1920's and 30's and was surprised to learn scotch and bourbon were considered below the salt and not at all what the erudite and sophisticated New Yorker drank. That confirmed Toots Shor's tipple of choice, brandy and soda. I used 10 year Decaumont ($13) for the dangerous Side Car here but can't find it. Blansac (4th from left) makes for a good Side Car and runs about $20 a litre. It's a little gritty with soda but has the backbone you need for a Brandy Old Fashioned a la the Wisconsin Dinner Club in Door County on a Friday night. It pairs well with the all-you-can-eat perch fry for $9.50 but be sure to save some room for the cheery cobbler, doncha know.

The De Ville (1st from left) is very light and I found it lacking. But I like the label so it's on my bar but filled with the St. Remy (3rd from left) which is a little steep ($19) but is complex enough to stand on it's own in a snifter. No surprise it's made by Remy Martin. Chatelle (5th from left -$18) was disappointing given the sale job from the wine store. Then again, I may not have the discriminating palette of a brandy buff. The Montmartre (2nd from left) stood out as cheap ($15), complex and very smooth with a hint of sweetness. It's perfect alone in a snifter but is clean and bright with soda. It's also perfect with sweet vermouth and orange bitters for a poor man's Brandy Manhattan. I'll pour Montmarte into the Hine VSOP bottle when it's empty.

Brandy and cognac are derived from grapes rather than grain or corn. And like Manzanilla Sherry, there's not a lot of interest and that's why they're so cheap. Sadly, the trade catalog from Welch & Margetson is not but I thought you should know about it. OK, you can blow now.

Clothes & The Man: 1952

Published by Tailor and Cutter. Written by Sydney Barney. Highly recommended by Charlie Davidson. Long before Flusser's, Clothes and the Man. Damned near impossible to find. Arrived in today's mail. Opened to page 78. Fourth paragraph down.

Bow Ties.- When the collar size is 14/14 1/2, 15/15 1/2, 16/16 1/2, 17/17 1/2, - the bow length is 31, 32, 33, 34 respectively. If you prefer a loosely tied bow add one size, and likewise if you want a tight bow deduct one size.

I have written before (Bow Ties & Erections) that selecting your neck size on an adjustable bow gives you a tie far too wide for your face. While I'm between a 16 and a 16 1/2, my bows are hooked at 14 to 14 1/2.

I measured a few and wouldn't you know. Most of them are 33" long. Exactly the length suggested above. Stay tuned for my book report next week. If the dog doesn't eat it.

Shirt Monogram Law

From 1981's, Making The Man by Alan Flusser

"If your shirt has no pocket, the monogram should be placed 3-5 inches up from the waist..." AF

"...should give only a subtle identification of the wearer." AF

Some years ago the private company I was working for was bought by a large publicly owned company for $1.8 billion dollars. T-shirts were passed out the next day with the new company name. I was tempted to add, "My company was bought for $1.8 billion dollars and all I got was this lousy T-shirt."

There was a meeting between their sale guys and our sales guys. We met in their conference room. The four of us sitting across a table from the four of them. Everyone took off their jackets and a strained conversation started. I noticed that their four sales guys all had monograms, some cursive, on their shirt cuffs. To see if they had a sense of humor I said, "Do we have to get our shirt cuffs monogrammed now that you own us?"

Our guys laughed. They didn't. I've mentioned before where I had monogramming done and while I'm not a 'Never' kind of guy - - I'm telling you this - - never ever monogram a shirt cuff. I didn't need Alan Flusser to tell me that but maybe you do. TT

BeSpeak, BeSpoke, BeStylish - A Night With Flusser

I tried to edit these down. I really did. But Alan Flusser's digs are too amazing. The understated and rich luxe of 3 East 48th is unlike any haberdasher you've ever seen. Last night folks gathered for a demonstration of BeSpeak, an iPhone application to assist in getting dressed. I haven't tried it yet but will.

Chris Hogan of Off The Cuff worked with Flusser in getting this whole BeSpeak train outta the station. To sum up, it's like having Flusser and his associate, Mark Rykken giving you advice while your looking at clothes. Better these two than the wife or girlfriend, "Hey, honey. This tie really pops with your shirt."

There is no 'poppin' at Alan Flusser. Only understated and restrained goods presented logo free. There's a lot to see in NYC. Flusser is something you can sneak off to while the family waves signs outside The Today Show. Just be careful and save enough for the trip home.