Holy Week: Press Sweat

Heavy Tweed Jacket is doing some amazing stuff over here. His '97 J. Press catalog brought back plenty of memories with this sweat shirt banging 12 on the nostalgia meter. I had just started with Johnson & Higgins in Chicago and was in NYC to steal a client from my prior employer despite a non-compete -- The employer's in jail now so I guess we can talk.

I ran a booze, cigar and apparel gauntlet from my hotel, The Algonquin, straight east to the crusty & narrow JR Cigar for a thick cedar box of double-maduro robustos. Moving on through Brooks Brothers, where Marks and Sparks were doing their Anglican best to drive a stake through all that was golden-fleeced holy, the shoe department was always target rich for Alden cordovan on sale. A quick stop in Orvis where there was something fun (always) and (usually) a steal. Lastly, a final swing through the old J. Press before heading back to the hotel for a martini and a Marlboro with Mr Hoy.

I paid $45 for this sweat shirt and caught huge grief from the 'Echo Xray' who said it looked "cheesy." I suppose it does -- Which is why I wore it every chance I got. No longer available, one can only hope J. Press can get out of its own way and bring the sweat shirt back. Nobody knows what it is which is half the fun of wearing it. Someone in Chicago asked me if I graduated from Press. I did a spit take then -- but today, I like to think I did.

Selling Suits

Brooksgate 3 Piece $275 in 1985

Glen O'Brien in four button Gianfranco Ferre - M Inc Magazine April '91

Brooks Brother's 'Own Make'

Notch lapel DB in Philadelphia

Mr. B in a Mani gabardine with Countess Mara tie

Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece

Chester Barrie suit

J. Press Tweed 3 piece and navy chalk stripe

J Press Stance
J Press Hook

Paul Stuart Stance

"I remember that guy. He was wearing the green double breasted suit and he had a tie pin that kept falling off."

You never want to be remembered for what you wore in a sales meeting.

About 14 years ago, a client of mine joined a large and well known real estate company as CFO. Shortly after starting he was given $1,200 by the company and told to go buy a suit. He was told not to bring any of the money back but to spend it all on the suit. He was told the suit was to be worn when he met with banks.

It made sense to me then and it still does. By dressing employees, my friend's company took "cheap suit" anxiety out of meetings with people who had huge sums of cash to give them. Doubtful any of us will work for a company as wise and as generous but there's a valuable lesson here. If your employer won't invest in your selling appearance - then you must.

Figure $900 to $1,600 for a budget. Solid navy or gray to start with. If you're new to this, I recommend a worsted gray. In a pinch, you can wear the gray trousers with a blazer or sport coat. If you already have gray then it must be solid navy. When the navy trousers wear out replace the horn buttons with brass blazer buttons. A trick I learned from the cheapest Scotsman I know.

25 years ago the sack suit from J. Press was popular. Today, it's unique to the point of being fashionable. Still, it's an option and very close to the bottom of the budget. It's also excellent camouflage if you're packing an extra 15 or 20 pounds. But understand this...Nobody's gonna say, "Nice suit, Jim." because, like a good haircut, nobody will notice it. This is what we want when we're selling.

25 years ago, Brooks Brothers gave me a credit card and an employee discount. My first purchase was three suits. All Brooksgate 3 piece. Solid navy, Navy pinstripe and gray pinstripe. I'd still have them if I was a 40 Reg. They did see me through a ton of interviews. The FBI, where I failed the psychological exam twice. The DEA, where they failed my psychological exam once. The Director's Guild (East & West), where I failed the AD test both times. Doyle Dane and Bernbach, where I failed the, "Where did you go to college" test. And 20th Century Fox, where I failed the, "I don't know what I'm doing here" test. I never did test well.

If I did get the DDB job, I would've made a bee line for Paul Stuart. Sitting near the top of the budget is a beautiful navy suit with side vents and a low two button stance. Very flattering on shorter men. No ticket pocket or other bells and whistles. Just a simple Samuelsohn made suit. I was told it was their most popular model and who can argue with that.

It's impossible not to mention Brooks Brothers. Back in 1992, I worked for Bill Bartholomay. Chairman of the Atlanta Braves, Chicago Parks Commissioner and owner of Puerto Rico. Bill asked the Straight Arrow I worked with if anyone still shopped at Brooks Brothers. Mr B was a card. That's Bill up there in the bad Mani gabardine with the ugly, but ever popular mid west, Countess Mara tie. The picture's from M Magazine in April of '91 but Bill would look timeless if he had only worn a navy Golden Fleece chalk stripe. They're pushing $2,000 today but are frequently on sale which puts it within our budget.

A mentor told me the idea of thinking yourself "special" is like finding yourself on the very end of a tree branch. Like a black suit, you're far from the support of the trunk -- you're literally out on a limb all by yourself. There's great comfort in being one with the tree. These 'tree' suits will communicate nothing negative but, their quiet quality can put you on the buyer's short list. The rest is up to you...and your shoes.

J. Press Warehouse Sale 3/24 & 25

Heads Up
The last J. Press warehouse sale can be seen here. I know a guy who's coming down from Boston in a bus for this one. Never underestimate the power of 80% off.

Saturday Steals: The Navy Blazer

Hunter & Coggins Poly Wool Blazer: Reduced from $185 to $155

J Press Cashmere Blazer: Reduced from $895 to $537

An old college buddy follows The Trad and he called me up last week with a question.

"I haven't worn a suit to work in 10 years. But sometimes I meet a client and I wanna show some deference. Not enough to make him uncomfortable but enough to show I made an effort. You know?"

There's been a ton written about 'Casual Friday' since the early '90s, but not much about how to make a low key impression. The mistake is to break out the chalk stripe suit, seven fold tie and double cuff Royal Swiss cotton shirt. It's all very elegant but it's too much today. Hell, it was probably too much yesterday.

There's no reason the understated navy blazer can't be more than the sum of its parts. Basic Training is the center vent, darted, poly wool piece of crap my mother bought for me in high school. It's not meant to last beyond three or four dry cleanings when the glue holding it together melts and puckers. Good for a wedding, a couple funerals and high school graduation pictures. Cheap, right as rain and discreet.

And still available it appears. This ad for Hunter & Coggins ran in the recent New Yorker touting $155 blazers. If you need something you can throw on the back seat of your car, and replace cheaply because of too many client lunches-- then this baby is for you. It even comes in a bizarre array of colors to suit junior high school coaches throughout the southeast. I've warned you off the maroon. In fact, I would advise there's only navy and hunter green, but you do what you want. It's your $155.

Way the hell over on the other side of the blazer tracks lives cashmere. She's warm in the winter but cool enough for summer. No one will pay her any attention until the client slaps you on the shoulder or she touches your sleeve. You'll see the change in their face as they leave their hand on the goods for another moment. Finally, as they take their filthy mitts off you they'll say, "What is that? It's so, so, sofffttt." And you say, "It's cashmere..." drawing out the 'mere' while you blush with humility.

Either way, your client will be glad he's doing business with you. You're not making enough to afford anything but a $155 blazer-- or-- because you were discreet and humble enough to wear the very best and not bang a drum about it. Although, you may have troubles increasing your fee. If that's the case, tell him you got it on sale at J Press. He won't know who that is, but if he has half a brain he'll google J Press after you leave and order one for himself.

Cold Comfort

David Mercer's Bold Multi Plaid 763 & J. Press Shaggy Dog

Was moving to Chicago when a buddy from New York asked if I had "Chicago" gloves. I pull a pair of B-squared outta my pocket. He looks. Shakes his head, "Those aren't gonna cut it." It took one Chicago winter for me to figure that out. But I swear - (holy shit it's cold) - New York has turned into Chicago.

A sadistic wind blows cross town and walking west for five minutes reminds me of my first Slurpee brain freeze. Eyes tear up and ears sting. I cross streets against red lights and when cars honk I give them my best, "You have heat. I have the right of way."

The problem with Chicago winters is they go on forever. In March you still have snow up to your pipik. I don't know how many times I froze my ass off at the Cub's opener. Early May could be rain and 37 degrees. Then it's June and 100 degrees. Seems to me New York is doing a helluva impersonation. Only problem is we don't have Daley here. Our mayor lives in Bermuda.

Winter depression can be overcome with caution (never listen to the wind chill) and an optimistic color wheel. This is no time for Joseph Abboud's earth shades. That stuff'll have you jumping off a building. You need bold color just so everyone knows you're laughing. You're actually crying 'cause the wind is ripping your forehead off but they'll all think your laughing. That or you're a circus clown.

Press Only: The Harvard Crimson

The verdict is still out on this ticket, but for Tinseth, one thing is certain. “Do I like the line? Not so much. Do I understand it? Absolutely,” he said. “I bought a lot of stupid things when I was 19.” For the whole story go here.

J. Urban Press Outfitters: 'More is Less'

Jeremy Dean of Urban Outfitters - He's really not a bad guy

Navy Blazer $148

Black Watch Wool Trouser $88

Unlined wool

Khaki $78

Golf Jacket $118

Stripe Button Down $68 Grosgrain Belt $28

Rep Tie $34

"My philosophy is: As the face gets worse -- The clothes have to get better." Steve Martin

Two years ago Jeremy Dean from Urban Outfitters was introduced to Mark McNairy from J. Press. What comes to mind is the, "You got your peanut butter on my chocolate." "You got your chocolate on my peanut butter" Reese's Cup commercials. I love Reese's Cups but I'm not so sure about this collaboration.

McNairy and Dean hit on this idea of Urban Outfitters putting out a budget J. Press line with all the right details but at a lower price point. No different from Brooks Brothers and Brooksgate of the '80s or RL's Rugby of today. Cheap clothes for kids without a lot of money but hitting 12 on the style meter via not so subtle design tweaks. Already, I'm too old for this.

But they're not making it for me. Hell, they're not making it for themselves. The pant has one of the lowest rises I've ever seen. The fly looks like it's 3" long. If you're a gal looking for a khaki this just might be your ticket. Same with the wool Black Watch and grey flannel.

I can't imagine anyone with an appendage south of the belly button getting into these pants. It's a great price but you sacrifice comfort for the goods. The hand is rough and not unlike the winter wool trousers I was issued in the army. I wore those once in four years.

The blazer has the right details. Working buttons on the sleeve, a patch pocket and the required narrow lapel. But again, the wool comes up short. Pea coat-like and a lint magnet but it may be hard for a 19 year old to walk away from $148. Or, the parent who's looking to spend as little as possible on a blazer with the kid who'll never walk into Brooks or Jos. Bank.

There's a definite target audience here but the shirts may turn everyone off. Details galore. Flap pocket, three button collar, university stripe but all wonky. The collar is too short like the Rugby button down of a year ago. It looks flat and soulless. There's a cheapness here but I've been spoiled by David Mercer -- so again -- I am not anywhere near this area of operation. You can buy two of these for every one Mercer. And what 19 year old can walk away from that? If you're over 30 -- consider the Mercer.

Onward Kashiyama designed the collection for Urban Outfitters citing influence from the movie, Animal House (I see it) and the TV series, Happy Days (I don't). Onward insisted the collection be made by Urban Outfitter's vendors in China. That's interesting. It makes me wonder if this isn't a trial balloon of a Rugby / Brooksgate line for J. Press. It's not a bad idea if the quality with Urban stumbles.

There are scarves ($38), the required narrow ties ($34) as well as a couple Shaggy Dogs ($78) I didn't see. What I did see and liked was the Black Watch golf jacket($118) -- and I hate golf. It's perfect except for a cheesy lining with bizarre J. Press smiley faces. Jeremy was quick to point out that was a Onward design. Still, it's a great looking jacket perfect for Fall and even Winter if you live down south. It's traditional, hasn't been screwed with and while the design is understated -- the Black Watch speaks to its Trad origins. The kids should hate it.

For me, "less is more" is an ideal I strive for. In writing, cooking, clothes, cocktails, just about anything in life except for a pay check. I might even apply it to my diet someday. For under $500, you can kit yourself out pretty well with this line. Blazer, couple shirts and trousers, ties, belts, etc.

For the same $500, you'll get a blazer at J. Press. On sale. I don't see J. Press going the way of Pierre Cardin. What concerns me are the issues of the quality. When I buy the golf jacket and it falls apart in less than a year... I won't blame J. Press. That's not to say others won't.

Look for it at select Urban Outfitters in early December - -If you're young and good looking.

Urban Outfitters & J. Press

Coming Monday. It's not all bad news. It's not all good news either. Stay tuned for a visit to the J Press collection at Urban Outfitters.

'My' Caswell - Massey

I came to Caswell - Massey via J. Press. I don't know how much of it Press sells but they hooked me on Greenbriar. You pay a little extra for the packaging but I figure Press deserves it. The word perfume comes from the Latin, per, "through," and fumum, "smoke." An interesting etymological discovery since my father shared David Hackworth's affection for calling Pentagon brass, "Perfumed Princes." If anyone can blow smoke it's Pentagon brass.

Consequently, the old man is not a fan of colognes. Of any sort. I have been since my first bottle of Canoe at 13 and my addiction to Old Spice cologne and talc in the army. Nothing seemed to smell better at the time than freshly starched fatigues and Old Spice. The smell still takes me back to Ft Bragg. And for me, that's one of the special qualities of scent. How something so invisible can take you back decades to another time and all in a split second.

I'm not interested in wearing Jovan musk and hitting Bennigan's on a Friday night. I'm interested in adding some luxury to the morning's three "S's" and being grateful for that moment. Caswell - Massey has a history that goes back to 1752. When you sniff their No. 6, you're smelling what George Washington wore, and gave to Lafayette as a gift, turning him into a life long customer. According to the company, No. 6 is their costliest scent but sells for $30 a three ounce bottle. It reminds me of the more expensive and very classic, Eau D'Hermes.

I like Greenbriar and have mixed it with Ylang Ylang for a scent the Golf Foxtrot is fond of. It's citrus but the Ylang gives it a deeper earthiness. The soaps are a good value at three for $24 and since they're triple milled you can use them to scent your sock drawer without fear of losing any of the scent. In fact, according to the company, this will dry the soap out and increase its life in the shower.

The Lime is my favorite. I give it to people all the time. Just ask ADG. It's clean and reminds me of a Gin and Tonic after a set of tennis near the beach south of St Augustine, FL. I can almost feel the powder of the har tru courts. Since cologne is made with alcohol, I'm pretty sure the Caswell - Massey Lime scent isn't that far removed from a G&T.

Colognes for $10 an ounce. Soaps (and drawer sachets) for $8 a bar. One of the oldest companies in the United States. Made in the US. Trad as Trad can be... Who cares about George Washington - - It is the scent of J. Press for God's sake. And you'd be surprised how many people don't even know about it. Instead, we're spritzed with Sean Combs and Elizabeth Taylor as we defend ourselves from the department store infantry shoving scented cannon fodder at us with some slick marketing promise of celebrity. Now that smells bad.

Tomorrow: 'Their' Caswell - Massey - The history and the customers.

Friday Belts- Mystery Strap & Bushmills

A J Press tartan strap and Bushmills White Label

See the damage done to that bottle over last winter? Not too bad. I'm good with Bushmills. I tend to sip it. With a little ice. It's clean, crisp and dry (and cheap). A nice diversion from a smokey Scotch or Rye. The distillery has been around since 1608. Pairs well with cold roast beef and horseradish on a Sunday afternoon. Jameson Irish Whiskey (ahem) is another story. I do not keep it in the house because of the evil it can do. Especially when combined with Guinness. For me, Bushmills is like drinking with a very attractive nun...I'm enjoying myself but there's not a lotta trouble I can get into.

Ken Bruen, the Irish crime writer, has a cautionary tale of an ex-cop turned private detective in Galway. 'The Guards' is a stumbling haze of Jameson chased with Guinness and a lotta punches. It's a ragged hangover crime noir that is best read with the Saw Doctors playing in the background.

Like a lot of Mr Bruen's books...that tartan strap is a mystery. There's a J Press label on the back and a logo stamp as well but no country of manufacture. I found it a year ago at the Daffy's on East 57th street for ten bucks. I never saw this belt at Press or in their catalogs so I assume it's dead stock - - But what's J Press doing at Daffy's? Where was it made? And who cut the Daffy's deal? I think there's a helluva story here. A story about a retail private eye.

DEAD STOCK by Tintin

It was hot. Too damned hot for the cordovan loafers he was wearing but too damned late to think about it now as he rounded Madison and headed north for the sit with the Japanese at Press. He pulled at his oxford cloth collar and cursed at himself for tying the madras bow too tight. 'They're gonna think it's a crummy pre-tied' he thought as the hammers banged around his head. He had one too many Bushmills at the King Cole last night with that hottie buyer from Ralph Lauren. 'What kind'a parents name a kid, Bunny?' he thought. 'Well...at least it suits her.'

Happy St Patrick's Day

The Donegal Tweed by J Press goes with anything

Even this old joke

So this Irishman is lost in the desert. Stumbling around and very near death when he kicks up an old brass lamp outta the sand. He yanks the top off and a genie appears. "Master, I've been trapped in that lamp for 300 years and you've set me free. You have three wishes." The Irishman looks up at the genie and through a cracked voice he utters, "Well, I've been roaming around this desert lost for weeks and I'm a bit parched - - How about a pint of Guinness?"

The genie roars with laughter and says, "Your wish is my command." And poof, there's a pint of Guinness in the Irishman's hand. No sooner does he drink it down than it magically refills to the top. The Irishman looks at the pint in astonishment and the genie says, "A little something I threw in for you, master. A never ending pint of Guinness. Now what can I give you for your other two wishes?" The Irishman smiles and holds up the pint glass, "I'll take two more of these!"