02 September 2010

Blind Oxford Tasting: No. 4

$79.50 (3 /$199) available from Brooks Brothers - Shirt # 4

Collar: Lined 3 1/4" collar with slight roll and wide tie space.
Body: Single needle stitching with one piece yoke. 22" wide x 30" long on 15-4.
Sleeves/Cuffs: Single stitched cuff with 9" wide sleeve and one cuff button.
Pocket: 4 7/8" wide with 'V' stitch.

G. Bruce Boyer (15 1/2 - 2)
The best cloth. Very good slate blue color. Tight weave and ideal weight.

The Goods-
Color: A
Weave: A
Hand: A
Weight: A
Quality: A

Robert Bryan (15-4)
Horrible, clumsy collar. Nice shirt tails. Cheap sleeves and cuff. Nicely finished pocket. Color too gray-blue.

The Goods-
Color: C
Weave: B
Hand: A
Weight: A
Quality: B

On sale the Brooks Brothers, US made, classic Polo oxford is a formidable value. People either love the color of the blue oxford or hate it.

9 comments:

Trey said...

I pay $15 for this very shirt at the Garland Shirt Company in Garland, NC, which is where the shirt is made. GSC also makes McNairy's New Amsterdam OCBD's, which you can buy at the same price at the same location.

Bill Smith said...

Interesting difference of opinion on the BB blue OCBD. I think the only consensus with judging panel is the Mercer shirt.

I have grown to love slate blue Brooks Brothers uses for their OCBD and I find their traditional fit works for me.

Anonymous said...

Who is this Robert Bryan guy? He doesn't seem to know Squat - at least about OCBDs. I like them very roomy and Brooks is distinguishable by the shirred cuffs - which he calls "cheap." I've always liked it and anyone who saw it would know automatically which one is the Brooks shirt. Also, Brooks has one of the best collars on the market. To call it "horrible" and "clumsy" when it gives such a nice roll and to praise the Lands End, which has no roll is, well....mind boggling.

Peter Wilborn said...

But Boyer gets it right! Mercer #1 and Brooks #2.

tintin said...

Trey- Tell me how - just not here in front of everyone.

Bill- Hard to go wrong with the Brooks shirt but everyone has their preferences.

Anon- Fashion Editor of Fairchild's "M" Magazine and NY Times Magazine Fashion editor. He knows his stuff. Way more than me. But he's tall and thin and likes the '30s. As opposed to me who is short, fat and likes the '60s.

Peter- I'm n the camp.

Anonymous said...

Well that surely makes Mr. Bryan the arbiter of taste for all tall and thin gentlemen. I'm 6' 4" and thin, but prefer the Brooks Brothers over the Hyde Park. Go figure.

What "stuff" does Mr. Bryan know that Mr. Boyer doesn't?

Anyway, thank you very much for doing this comparison for us. You are a mensch.

~Hilton

tintin said...

Hilton- When I was thin I preferred the fuller cut of Brooks. Back then the guys who enjoyed a fitted shirt were prone to tone on tone patterned shirts with closed vent suits and manicures with polish.

"What "stuff" does Mr. Bryan know that Mr. Boyer doesn't?" Did I say that?

James Brown said...

Hey Tint -

Which is the richest blue? I've never been down with the slate shade of the B2.

Ben said...

While we're on the subject; anyone know of a source in existence giving info about the various BB shirt labels over the years? So as to identify what era different shirts come from...

Might be another fun project.

Also, I've got to say, as far as attention to detail, the Malay made shirts seem to have a much finer attention to detail than the US supimas these days, I've found quite a few mistakes in the supimas as of recent, bad shirring, misaligned sleeves, neck sizes not true, etc...