18 January 2012
Capsule: Autumn Winter 2012
In a sea of hi water-turned up denim, Red Wing work boots, black beards and more watch caps than there are in the U.S. Navy -- beneath all the pretentious bullshit -- there's... money to be made.
This is a trade show. No different than the Metal Fabricators in Chicago or General Aviation in Orlando. While a 200 page book lists exhibitors; it also tells another story. That of a small and hip sounding haberdasher with sales and PR contacts at Nike.
The ersatz hip are avoided easily enough. This year a number of vintage dealers, many known only to the design community (and the Japanese), threw open their doors to everyone. You didn't need admission to check out what Capsule called, "Added Awesomeness." Use of over enthusiastic PR talk aside, the "Donut Shop" concept worked nicely and details of the best vintage vendors will follow tomorrow.
Santa Maria increased the sophistication factor ten-fold. Not sure the throngs of Jethro Bodine impersonators understood what it was for.
Santa Maria burning papers emit a scent not unlike what you would have smelled in the 13th Century. Makes sense. They're made exactly as they were in the 13th Century.
Tretorn's line for Spring and Summer is filled with color. I couldn't help but notice a combination that'll be hard to secure in Gainesville.
Wood chips and the 2nd floor represented, "Above Tree Line - focused firmly on performance outdoor apparel."
I never did understand this.
But I understand this - Lots of business cards. Many from Ted (the fuck stick) Harrington at Terrapin. Ted and I both share this affectionate nickname from our fathers. I'm guessing if you're under 40 your father didn't call you fuck stick. Turning you into an entitled and spoiled shit... Ted's working on the cards.
Tom Beatty of Wm J. Mills & Co, purveyors of awe-canvas-someness, has lots of serious waxed cotton this year. Rugged looking but with an elegant aesthetic.
John Gluckow of Strongarm C&S, a vintage dealer in the Donut Shop section, had more vintage T&A than I've seen in a long time. More from John tomorrow.
Andy Freidman of Abington by Timberland, probably the kindest human being in NYC, brings back the waffle-stomper craze of the '70s that I lived through in Colorado Springs. It looks authentic but the boot is light and much more comfortable than my concrete Vasque boots of 36 yrs ago.
Arrived early in hopes of missing late riser designers. Still, Bloody Marys were offered up in a bar/lounge that looked more like a VIP club in 1970's Romania.
Paul Mole (Full Transparency- My barber) provided straight razor shaves but I guess I was too early or they were too hung over. Which worked for me. Not sure if a free straight razor shave from a hung over barber is worth it.
George Tart, another vintage dealer, cranks open a 1920's tractor umbrella. More on George and our conversation tomorrow.
And you never know where the Saigon Electric Works patch will show up.