M's 1992 Style Advice for Candidates

"If the mud-slinging on this campaign gets as heavy as the pundits predict, all the runners are going to need a few changes of clothes." 

"When he appears on TV, it's hard at first to know if you're watching Governor Bill Clinton of Arkansas or just an average televangelist."  Blazer, shirt, jeans and tie from Hugo Boss, shoes by Edward Green.

"Bush needs to bring that preppy look up to 1992 with a softer, three button blazer and uncreased birds-eye gray trousers." Blazer, trousers, shirt and tie by Donna Karan, shoes by Edward Green.

"Quayle dresses like an old bureaucrat, and seems about as imaginative and lively." Jacket, trousers and shirt by Baracuta.

"Tsongas looks serious, acts serious, talks serious and patently yearns to be taken seriously, that's too serious." Suit, shirt and tie by Jhane Barnes.

"Jerry Brown needs to appear as a solid citizen, and there's nothing flaky about this vested, pin strip suit." Suit, shirt, tie and socks from Ralph Lauren.

"Bob Kerrey looks as bland and sounds as exciting as a local sportscaster in a small to medium market." Jacket and trousers from Krizia Uomo, shirt and tie from Tango by Max Raab.

"Wilder dresses sharp -- maybe a little too sharp for a Virginia gentleman." Jacket, trousers, shirt and tie by Nick Hilton

"If Duke wants more than the redneck vote, he's got to get street smart. And this outfit should suit him prefectly; he's used to wearing hoods." Denim jacket, hooded shirt and denim jeans from Mossimo.

"Franklin Roosevelt loved seersucker suits.  If it worked for FDR in '32, why not Mario Cuomo in '92?" Suit by Avery Lucas, shirt by Gieves & Hawkes, tie by Robert Talbott, shoes from Cole Haan.

By Robert Bryan with photographs by Greg Watermann

"Don't do the crime if you can't do the time..."

American Giant has offered up three black T shirts for field review. Two large and one extra large. If you'll comment on how you propose to do your field test and agree to report the results in two weeks -- I'll send you one.

American Giant Black T-Shirt $25

A lot of people in the apparel business will tell you it's impossible to manufacture in the U.S. anymore. Actually, what they're really saying is it's impossible to make a 600% to 1,000% markup manufacturing in the U.S. anymore. Man, that's criminal.

A year and half ago, Avery Lucas designed a canvas trouser for The Trad and I featured it here. Button fly with side tabs, Avery contrasted dressier details with humble canvas fabric. We found a U.S. manufacturer who'd make it for $60. We'd sell it direct for $120. A trouser twice the quality at half the cost. What happened? That's a very long story.

I sat down with American Giant CEO, Bayard Winthrop and in less than five minutes our heads were both going north and south over the issue of insane mark ups. Winthrop's idea is simple. Basic tops made in the U.S. and sold direct. He explained that men are a lot more comfortable ordering apparel on line. Especially if it's well made and well priced. I don't think he's onto something -- I know he is.

Sweatshirts ($60) and t-shirts ($25) are thick-solid and well made. I've seen old, made in USA, Russel sweatshirts going for $100+ in Manhattan's "Vintage" boutiques. Clearly, that's drunken sailor money and some will argue $25 for a t-shirt is too. I'll only say this. I have an affection for black t-shirts.


Dad wore 'em,



I wore 'em,



Sgt Nick Penis wore 'em,



Mayne wore 'em,





and Baretta wore 'em.


I could wear 'em all year long -- But I'll need to know, "where can I go where the cold winds don't blow."

The Friday Belt: 'Billy & Avery'

Me: What'll you have to drink?

She: I don't know. I do know whenever I drink champagne I want to take off my clothes.

Bartender: I'm sorry madam. We're out of everything but champagne.

Years ago 'Billy' was my go to rose champagne. At $45 in a wine store and $90 in a bar, it was tremendous value for the money. Today, you'll pay between $75 and $85 retail. Still, I think it's a great value...with the understanding: You do not drink it by yourself.

NV Billecart Salmon Rose is as close to vintage Louise Rose as you can get without paying upwards of $250. It is clean and bright and it tastes like sex. Roll it in your mouth and feel the cold escape while the bubbles break warm over your tongue. A fat plop of triple cream cheese on crusty French bread is perfect before dinner. Do this right and there shouldn't be any dinner.

I need a cold shower. I usually run a non-alcoholic beverage with a beltless trouser but Avery Lucas designed this canvas pant for me. It's rustic in that it's canvas fabric but the cut is dressy. The leg tapers from the knee to a 8" wide opening and while I'm not crazy about the pockets -- they're growing on me.

Avery included a button fly which, many will tell you, helps with the line of the pant. I can't tell the difference. I do know that if things are going well with the champagne -- a button fly will slow you down. Not that that's a bad thing.

Discover Avery Lucas & Booker T.

Avery Lucas - Esquire Magazine 1993

It's unique everywhere you go

Avery Lucas Four Button Jacket

Button down

Flap pocket shirt

Patch pockets

An Autumnal Wine that's hard to find

Turn up Booker T & The MGs

Avery Lucas took me on a sartorial road trip. He called and asked if I'd check out a four button tartan jacket he was making. "A what?" Avery said, "It's very Trad." I said, "How in the hell is four button Trad, Avery?" "That's why you gotta see it." he said. Ok. I don't have the stones for this. Now. But that may change.

The tweaks and nods to Trad are everywhere. From a distance, it's as Andover Shop as the day is long but, up close, it changes. I love this shirt with the J Press flap pocket, rounded collar points and beautiful MOP buttons. If you're a designer - start taking notes.

The jacket has a traditional stance but it's rich in Italian drape. The patch pockets keep it clean and simple and you barely notice the fourth button. It's not finished yet and I can't wait to see how it comes out.

This isn't a Friday Belt but Avery thought the jacket very Autumnal so I went looking for something. Italian for the cut but with a twist. Approachable but different. You know? Like the jacket.

At Dell'Anima, they turned me onto a white from Italy made by nuns with help from Paolo Bea's son, Giampiero. Coenobium Rusticum is best served with a slight chill. Not too cold and not too expensive. Less than $25. And like Autumn it's a beautiful gold with just a hint of a cider finish. As off the reservation as Avery's Tartan.

And because I haven't heard them in years -- I offer something for you to turn up and head into the weekend with. Booker T & the MGs doing Time is Tight - - When four button jackets where everywhere.

Avery Lucas - A Southerner in NYC...

Newport News, VA to be exact. Wore a red velvet leisure suit to the Jackson 5 concert at the Hampton Coliseum in 1972. Caddy at the Williamsburg, VA Country Club. FIT graduate and a lover of the 30's drape. The only man I know who can speak texture and have any of it make sense. Stints running custom at Saint Laurie, Dunhill and a few he'd just as soon forget.

A new gig with the custom shop at J Lucas Clothiers. Showed me how he had a worn out pair of driving moccs refurbished with a leather sole. They look perfect. Duck canvas pant contrasts with an elegant spread collar shirt and a tie...I've never seen a tie drape like that. His writer is Boyer. Polo shirt is Fred Perry. Hermes...but only the leather goods.

"Taste is emotional. It has spirit and it needs years to marinate." Together we looked out the large window onto Madison Avenue and watched people walk by. Avery smiles, "The other day I was walking down the street and my feet didn't hit the ground because I'm wearing what I want to wear and just as I'm feeling so good a woman walked up to me and said, "You're too elegant to be smoking a cigarette. Put that out." And I did." he laughs. "Or, at least I wanted to."