FIT Ivy Style Exhibit

Michael Bastian (Fall 2012)


Chipp Madras Jacket (1970)


Locker Room


McGregor Argyle Vest (1956), Macy's Tie (1956-1959)


Tweed Jackets from Richard Press Collection


Ibid

Ibid


Tartan Patch Wool Jacket


Dorm Room designed by Richard Press


The Bible


Princeton 25th Reunion Blazer


Ralph Lauren Suede Tassel Loafers (1980)


RL Polo Coat (1980)


The ladies who curate

With nothing to sell but a book, FIT's Patricia Mears along with Richard Press and G. Bruce Boyer created a soulful exhibit of Ivy curio, historical apparel and contemporary attire through the likes of Michael Bastian, Ralph Lauren, Jeffrey Banks and Brooks Brothers.

But it's Chipp, Tripler and Press that caught my eye not to mention the school blazers and evening wear from the early 2oth century. The heart of it extends from its profit free purpose. No one is selling on this floor. Although, I wish I could buy that Chipp Madras jacket.

It's refreshing to see apparel as public art. Going to look just for the sake of looking and learning while not consuming the hype that is the constant 'Ca-ching' of New York Fashion Week. I find it peaceful here.

'His Mother' & 'Contemporary Gothic' at the Mint

Heads Up: Museum of the City of New York

This is gonna sound a little dry for some of you (you move your mouth when you sign your name) and a little Socialist for some of you (you eat the poor & move your mouth when you sign your name) but it may appeal to the more erudite and sophisticated (you read The Trad) who have nothing to do tomorrow night except watch PBS.

There's gonna be a talk (I lost half of you) on the history (10% more) of NYC's garment industry by Andrew Dolkart, the director of Historic Preservation at Columbia University's Graduate School of Architecture (there's one of you left and she works for the National Park Service). Details are here.

It's at the Museum of the City of New York tomorrow night at 6:30 PM. Reservations are required but the entrance fee for my readers reader has been reduced to $6. Just mention The Trad when you call (917.492.3395) to order your tickets ticket.

Look, I'm going and there's not even a bar.

J. Press - Cambridge

Just around the corner from the Andover Shop is the Cambridge branch of J. Press. "Just around the corner..." I was just struck by how unfair that is. In a country teeming with soulless malls, white bread franchises and cookie cutter chains - Cambridge is in damned good shape. There are those who will tell you Cambridge is changing. Pushing the unique shops out for the higher rents paid by Micky, Ralph and Tommy, et al. But for now, and I have no idea how much longer, you can take a step back in time.

Denis Black is the manager and is born of the cloth I reckon. Growing up his father managed the Boston Brooks Brothers. His blood must be oxford blue. I don't think anyone is prouder of this store than Denis. In a time when retail is run by accountants with zero interest in what they're selling - - Denis is the real deal. He reminds me of the very best I worked with at Brooks Brothers in the '80s. That is, people who had forgotten more than I'll ever know.

While the J Press in NYC is mid 20th century, Eames, Barcelona, bright and modern - the Cambridge Press is warm, worn, soft and comfortable. I would give anything to have a cocktail here on a rainy and cold autumnal afternoon. If Charlie Davidson is king of English goods at Andover - which he is - Denis heads up NAG (North American Goy). NAG, by the way, was first coined by me and I'm proud to say has never been used by anyone other than me.

This isn't a store as much as it's a museum. And in that knowledge Denis Black may be the only man working in apparel who has the right to be called a curator. Crammed in every nook are the ephemera of old brochures, catalogs, '60s store boxes and Harvard football scores. None of it was shipped here. It was born here. Authentic isn't strong enough a word for what you'll find at 82 Mount Auburn Street. I was even able to research khaki versus chino via a book Press used during WWII for uniform orders. Denis, don't ever sell that book to Ralph.

The Trad Museum

Some things don't change and thank goodness the Met in NYC has kept this exhibit going. I first saw these guys in the mid 80s and damned if they're not still at the Met. I remember walking into this room for the first time and seeing these four Knights and thinking , "Holy shit. " Probably not what the curator was after but it blew me away. Still does.

Is it Trad? I think it is. I mean it's the Met. And any Trad knows that if this stuff bores you there's always the Wine Bar where you can get a bottle of Claret for $40. That's a pretty good deal for a NYC museum. So sit at the bar, share a bottle of wine with a friend, cross your legs so everyone can see your socks and talk about the fact that none of this stuff would be here if people didn't have sex. You can't get more Trad than that.