"I'll Have Peach"

You don't see the peach colored shirt as much anymore and that's a shame --  Loads of color will  go with it and it's an elegant way to ride off the reservation… on an Appaloosa …backwards. That and it's my favorite home made ice cream flavor. Larry Miller tells my favorite story about peach.  I know it doesn't look like much -- But, like peach, I think it'll surprise you.

Trad Xmas List: Caswell Massey Lime Line - Discontinued in the USA

Going, going...

J Press turned me onto Caswell Massey Lime.  Their house cologne, Press offered the lime soap and talc as well.  About three years ago the Press labeled stuff disappeared off the shelves and was replaced by CM labeled product.  About a month ago, CM confirmed they were discontinuing the lime line entirely.

If you're a fan, go to their web site and grab what you can get.  I received a private sale circular offering an additional 25% off the already discounted price. Looks like the cologne might already be history but the soap is still around. Use Code DPS12 when ordering on line or over the phone.

Tie Pun Unlined

Man goes into a restaurant. Maitre'd stops him.

"Sorry sir, you need to wear a tie to enter".

Man goes back to his car. Looks around. No necktie. Man takes jumper cables, wraps 'em around his neck and ties a knot. Man goes back to the restaurant. Maitre'd stops him

"Well, you can come in...Just don't start anything."

FIT Ivy Style Exhibit

Michael Bastian (Fall 2012)


Chipp Madras Jacket (1970)


Locker Room


McGregor Argyle Vest (1956), Macy's Tie (1956-1959)


Tweed Jackets from Richard Press Collection


Ibid

Ibid


Tartan Patch Wool Jacket


Dorm Room designed by Richard Press


The Bible


Princeton 25th Reunion Blazer


Ralph Lauren Suede Tassel Loafers (1980)


RL Polo Coat (1980)


The ladies who curate

With nothing to sell but a book, FIT's Patricia Mears along with Richard Press and G. Bruce Boyer created a soulful exhibit of Ivy curio, historical apparel and contemporary attire through the likes of Michael Bastian, Ralph Lauren, Jeffrey Banks and Brooks Brothers.

But it's Chipp, Tripler and Press that caught my eye not to mention the school blazers and evening wear from the early 2oth century. The heart of it extends from its profit free purpose. No one is selling on this floor. Although, I wish I could buy that Chipp Madras jacket.

It's refreshing to see apparel as public art. Going to look just for the sake of looking and learning while not consuming the hype that is the constant 'Ca-ching' of New York Fashion Week. I find it peaceful here.

J. Press & Little Lord Fauntleroy

The late 19th Century - A train makes its way across the American West. Inside a passenger car, a woman, in Victorian dress and Ostrich plumed hat, holds a toy poodle in her lap with one hand while waving the air with the other.

Seated across from her is a man in a three piece suit smoking a cigar. He sees her waving and stands to open the train window. Sitting back down, she continues to wave despite the smoke rushing out the window.

Frustrated, she lunges at the man, yanks the cigar out of his mouth and throws it out the window. Returning to her seat she looks out the window with smug satisfaction. Frustrated, he lunges at the woman, takes her dog and throws it out the window.

The J Press venture with Ovadia & Sons, known as York Street, has resulted in a toy poodle. Press, once wise and understated, has been doing a lot of co-branding -- Ovadia, while a great looking and classic line, never seemed like a good value to me. It's in that land of $300 alpha sized shirts and $75 surcingle belts.

J. Press always needed a younger line in much the same way Brooks Brothers offered Brooksgate and the University Shop; Slimmer fitting and lower priced, usually as much as 30-50%. It was also a way to get the customer at a young age and keep him for the rest of his life.

While I expect only the most severe 25 year old to latch onto Press sack jackets -- The key is gonna be price and so far ain't no one talking what the prices are. Lastly, it is with great humility that I pass on this one word of advice. Edit.

Tricked out from straw boater head to Tretorn foot and madras-ed within an inch of your life isn't going to do much for you or your social life other than show a lack of imagination and perhaps testicle size. You're gonna need big ones to wear these rigs.

Frankly, I think the Yale Street models look an awful lot like Little Lord Fauntleroy. You may want to catch Freddie Batholomew's 1936 turn as the Lord before investing too heavily. Here, I posted the entire movie for you. My favorite part is when he gets his bike.

Ungrateful Corduroy

This... (M Magazine - 1985)

and not this. (Esquire Magazine 1970)

A favorite of poor students and journalists everywhere.

Preferred gentile apparel at a Bar Mitzvah.

Patch pockets and double vents keep it interesting.

Half lining keeps it cool

J Press shirt with murky-logo origins.

Label is little help

Corduroy: This is the anglicized version of the French Corde du Roi, for the material was used on the jackets of the hunting livery of the servants of the Kings of France. It is interesting to note that, like cul-de-sac (which always makes the French laugh as it is very rude), it is never used by the French, who call it, velour cotele, which is exactly what it is, namely ribbed cotton velvet.

The Germans have an even more romatic name for it, namely "Manchester." Manchesterhosen to the German means corduroy slacks. It is in this latter form that it is mostly seen in our lives, and is of course very hardwearing. On a jacket the cloth is almost too "ungrateful" as the French would say, as it is too stiff to fall attractively or mold to the body. It is also extremely hot. Hardy Aimes, 'ABC of Men's Fashion'

Hardy knew goods and he nailed corduroy to the wall. I love the look of it but rarely wear my jacket because it's stiff and very warm. Having said that, it almost never fails to elicit a comment of praise by those mad about clothes. "Patch pocket and side vent on corduroy...most unusual." or, "Isn't it stiff and very warm" to which I reply, "I certainly hope so."

The goods are cheap so it warrants informal details. Unlike the '70s coat up there which is a better looking color and cut but loses footing with a zipper and flapped patch pockets (best left to the camel hair Polo coats).

I have been looking for that shade of green from the 'M' Magazine model for at least 20 years. I'm not sure if it's a color shift in the photo but that green does not seem to exist in corduroy or in nature. Maybe I need to dig around some velour cotele.

J. Press 70% Off Sale

I always dress too warm for a sample sale. Hotter than hades up on the 29th floor of 530 7th Avenue (bet 38th and 39th) but some great stuff if you luck out size wise. All you short-skinny guys? This is your chance to load up.

Troy shirts, lots of tweed, mostly winter apparel with outright stealing in the damaged / sample area. A nice shawl collar dinner jacket for $10 but no trousers. I do wish Press would do this more often. More fun than a hog killin'. 11:00 - 6:00 Today through Friday