Douglas Fairbanks, Jr Auction Preview

Lot 443- Louis Vuitton Steamer Trunk: Est. $2,000 -3,000


Lot 312- Westridge Guest Book 1515 Amalfi Dr. Pacific Palisades (currently home of Stephen Spielberg): 1800 signatures including Cole Porter, Cecil Beaton, Jimmy Stewart, Clark Gable, Mary Pickford and Basil Rathbone. Est. $3,000-5,000


Lot 446- Dunhill Double Sided Brief Case w/ plastic tags from Cunard Line & British Airways. Est. $150-200.


Lot 105- Mahogany Partner's Desk w/ personal photos and cartoons under glass. Est. $4,000-6,000


Lot 361-John Lobb (St James) bespoke two eyelet oxfords and boot box. One of two pair. Do not appear to have been worn. US Size apx 9.5 to 10 / D width. Est. $100-150

Lot 265- Guest Book signed by Queen Elizabeth, Princess Margaret and 170 others. 2 July 1981. Party at Syon House Est. $400-600


Lot 315 Bolton's (Kensington, London) Guest Book signed & illustrated by Al Capp (NSFW) Est. $2,000-3,000


Lot 368- Inlaid Turkish cane. One of six. Est. $300-500

Lot 309- Rolodex. One of Two. Est. $100-200


The Trad Crew for the Preview (L to R) Paul Wilson, John Lobb NYC; Leonard Logsdail; Alice Olive, Photographer; Louis Webre, Doyle; Tom Davis, Brooks Brothers.

My thanks to the Trad Crew for their help yesterday afternoon at Doyle Auction House. Three hours were spent going through mostly apparel lots. Sizes, predictions and detailed insight coming next week. Have a great holiday weekend.

NY Tailors: Leonard Logsdail

Len's kitchen


Cool Italian wool


Matching...in a good way



Patterns

Gekko's Pattern


More patterns


and even more patterns

Kenny G?


View of the courts









































$850 for ready made






$6,500 for bespoke

Jacket canvas






Len Logsdail has a solid reputation as being approachable and about as down to earth as you can get without digging a well. He reckons his nature has a lot to do with his success. When you're gonna drop $6,500 on a bespoke suit it helps to like the guy you're giving all that money to. It's hard not to like Len.

Len's studio is on 53rd Street just east of Paley Park and above Hamburger Heaven. Like Len, the front of the house is comfortable, relaxed and happily void of any pretentious bullshit. Even the celebrity client photo is of a no bullshit celebrity, Frank Langella. There was beautiful Spring light streaming in through open southern windows the day I visited and I couldn't help but think what a great restaurant Len's space would make.

Len takes me to the back of the house (plenty of room for a kitchen) and shows me a sport jacket he's working on in an Italian plaid. Not to my liking but you can't help but admire how feather light the fabric is. Len explains his house style is not so much Henry Poole-like as much as Poole is Lenord Logsdail - like. This is said as a matter of fact. There's nothing wrong with being down to earth and confident.

There's an old-world ostentation that you frequently see on Savile Row and in most Polo stores. Len isn't afraid to say it's a haughtiness that's born more out of resentment than station or rank. I'm a long time believer in the origins of arrogance being born of stupidity. The more you know, the less you have to pretend you know. You know?

Len isn't faking it. He has a great sense of humor and it shows most enjoyably in his linings. Whether a suit, sport coat or a pair of tweed boxers...Len's linings surprise, amuse and generate ideas and inspiration I've never thought of before. Really crazy ideas.

If you don't have $6,500 to drop on a suit or $5,000 on a sport coat or $1,600 on a pair of trousers, you may want to consider an affordable ready made line Len has recently come out with. You can see it on line here.

A Brief on Briefs

Always in my Christmas stocking (from The History of Underwear)

This will be brief. I confess to wearing boxers and briefs. Not at the same time although I guess it makes me 'bi-undie.' Not that there's anything wrong with that. Back in the early '90s, I began a losing battle to stay in shape and joined a health club. Much as I like boxers, they didn't work with spandex shorts. Club members reckoned I had an accident. I don't like jock straps for the same reason I can't stand seamed boxers. So it was briefs.

My favorite were the house brand from Saks Fifth Avenue. They stood up to the hades water of the gym's laundry and I still have a couple pair. Telling as it is about my work out frequency-- I'll spare you the photographs.

The French Slip (from The History of Underwear)

MIA Brief Post has been returned.

Most of what I've read about briefs give the impression it was a US invention. The idea of comfort, utility and plain old 'merican common sense' adds up to some guy from the Midwest having a eureka moment resulting in numerous great grandchildren who are filthy rich, have truck loads of 'issues' and donate to wack job Republicans. That it came from the French isn't all that surprising to me. They like comfort and Socialism.

Valton-Quinquarlet et Fils was founded in 1893 in Troyes by Pierre Valton and manufactured socks. In 1918, Valton cuts the legs off a pair of long johns and voila! Briefs. Being French, he replaces buttons with a comfortable elastic waistband. I'm pretty sure that around this time the English were trying to make elastic out of twigs.

Valton goes one step further and swaps the scratchy wool goods with white cotton and names his creation, Petit Bateau. They're still around and so are the briefs which can be ordered here. Can you get any closer to wearing apparel history? Better, can apparel history get any closer to you?

The French think of everything. Even southpaws. (from The History of Underwear)


Rejected New Yorker cartoon by Michael Shaw


Advertising long ago... (from The History of Underwear)

Advertising yesterday (Esquire Magazine September 1960)


and advertising today. (from The History of Underwear)


In case you're British and the notion of wearing anything comfortable doesn't appeal... I offer these tweed boxers. (Click on image to enlarge and note perfect pattern matching)


Optional silk lining for Yanks. Tomorrow, 'Going Commando.'