The Art of T&A...

New digs in old Asprey digs...


Where buttons come from


Silk shirting from the archives


More silk shirting - via Instagram



WWII shirt from Jermyn Street



"Torches" from WWII


Brolly handles


Dressing room


Pocket frogging


and sleeves


Another world...


another Friday belt?


Silk dressing gown makes use of 12 screens


Sleeves


Moleskins


Limited edition shirts...


utilizing vintage T&A designed fabric


My "Magda" editor jacket


Traditional T&A stripes


Kingdom of Evening Wear


Smoking jacket



More sleeves

The Morning Coat


Custom shirts...


and even socks (by Corgi)


Photo by Cecil Beaton


The library


More Brolly handles


Preppy?

Turnbull & Asser recently moved a couple store fronts east from their old location to the long vacant Asprey Shop on 57th Street near Park Avenue. It's like walking into some very grand hotel... a hotel I could never afford unless I was on business. It's like meeting a beautiful woman in a bar, and I can't figure out why she's so interested in me, until I discover her business. In short, it's a place I don't belong.

But NYC is full of people who belong. Missing here is the, "We're not worthy" Midwestern attitude I came to love in Chicago... along with Old Style beer and the Chicago Cubs. T&A probably threw out the welcome mat after I wiped my feet upon entering but I never saw anyone do it. They're that discreet and even that friendly.

You enter the store through a small library. An archives of beautiful vintage shirts sit behind glass as if they're in a museum. And they are. T & A has taken great care of their history unlike many retailers I can name. But then we Americans love to throw old stuff away.

There's a hip new section of black, Gore Textual, Loro Piana (why are the Italians here?) that I found out of place. But I was reminded of how little I know when a celebrity, tall and good looking, made a significant purchase of a black, Gore Textual, cashmere lined something or other. Certainly he belonged.

Lighting grows with a beautiful sun like intensity while climbing the stairs from the ground floor library. Small boutiques are sartorially bordered by T&A kingdoms of evening wear, dressing gowns, shirts, ties, jackets and suits. Classics abound. A hacking pocket navy blazer might be considered a bit off the reservation but their solid charcoal suit has to be the best suit a man can buy.

But it is the dressing gowns I especially lust after...If I were a magazine editor -- the male version of Magda from Ab Fab -- I'd get a bevy of beautiful women and shoot them wearing nothing but T&A dressing gowns and smoking jackets. Of course, it's the celebrities who belong here. I'm just visiting.

It's Time...

The frantic-manic-mania of 'Prep Summer' is finally over. All that color and critter crap goes out the bare ankle door while crisp Autumnal skies speak to languid hosiery and relaxed maturity. Cotton madras becomes tartan wool. White linen turns to black & gray hues of Harris tweed. Calm is restored by burning leaves and only the grown ups are allowed matches... Which means, little ones, it's time to put on your fucking socks.

MRket NY / Vanguard

Last week in NYC

The Javit's Center hosted a boat show and the MRket show... I worked with a guy who took a model to the Boat Show. He put a $40,000 deposit on a yacht that knocked the model off her heels. That night she knocked him out of his Aldens. He stopped payment on the check the next day.

You see a lot of guys at boat shows with arm candy. I wonder if the word is out. I skipped the boats...

Black Watch is the new black

Bill's Khakis made in the US shetland

Corgi cable cashmere and

and new stripes this Fall.

Dents has a new orange cashmere lining.

Mean Ed Green

Bentley Cravats

Army beat

Navy.

There is nothing worse than attending a Metal Extruder show in Chicago in January. Except trying to sell insurance at the Metal Extruder show. There were reminders of extruders at the MRket NYC / Vanguard show but booths were filled with Italian, British and US apparel all headed for shelves this Fall.

An Edward Green rep may have put me off their shoes forever but Walter Schik of Bentley Cravats was warm and inviting while John Roberts of Dents hit me with a fake tackle when he caught me photographing his new line of gloves. Just like an extruder show...

F**k The Army Socks

Trad Dad and F.T.A.

My version...in cashmere

Inside and...

...Out

There's been a lot about the military this week on The Trad. Too much judging by the comments and I understand. Even the Golf Foxtrot told me I wasn't in the real army. I asked what she meant and she said, "You weren't shot at were you?" No. But I was chased by a pimp down Hay Street.

F.T.A. is the enlisted man's proud lament for what he thinks of the army and there's real tradition here. Dad used it as young corporal in the '50s. Who knows how far back it goes. There's a real sense of socialism in the military -- you're in the same boat with everyone else. When a man threw his arms up in frustration and shouted, "F.T.A." you knew of what he spoke and from whence it came.

It should come as no surprise that when Corgi offered me monogrammed socks and asked for my initials -- I said no. I wanted something that really sang and told my story. They're cashmere, navy and the monogram runs on both sides of each sock. Now, when I cross my leg on a bar stool at the King Cole, someone might notice and say, "FTA? Were you in the army?" And I'll say, "Not the real army but I was chased by a pimp." And that's how you meet the very best people.

Ask The Trad: Eight Hours To Make Socks?

Customer photo courtesy of Scotweb

Edinburgh Castle guard - Photo courtesy of Corgi
42nd Regiment Officer circa 1780

A reader expressed doubt about how it could take Corgi eight hours to make a pair of socks adding The Trad should add a "Gullible Approved Badge." That's a stamp up there, mate and these are tartan hose not socks. With help from Corgi and a little research I learned why it takes eight hours not to mention some other tartan facts.

"To start with the yarn is specially twisted and dyed for us and is not generally available. It is a 4 ply pure merino wool. We knit the leg part of the sock on a flat knitting machine and it is then linked together by hand into the tube shape of the leg. By knitting it flat we can vary the thickness of the leg to allow more room for well developed calf muscles.

This 'tube' is then picked up stitch by stitch by hand on a 100 year old hand sock knitting machine and the foot section is added completely by hand. The toe is then linked closed, again by hand. Finally the sock is washed, then pressed in a 60 year old flat bed press on specially shaped wooden boards." Chris Jones, Corgi Hosiery

There are a number of hose patterns Corgi make to be worn with a kilt. The idea is not to match the hose to the kilt but rather for the hose to compliment the colors of the kilt. As an example, I've seen both red and navy checked hose with the Black Watch kilt as well as a burgundy and white check.

When it comes to who can wear tartan, Alastair Campbell of Airds, writes in Brian Wilton's, Tartans, "So the answer to the question 'What tartan am I entitled to wear?' is - Any tartan you fancy. The sole considerations are good taste - some tartans are appalling clashes of color!"

And you don't have to wear a kilt. When the Urban Outfitter designer showed me the Black Watch golf jacket, I mentioned the ugly lining should be replaced in three panels with the 42nd's regimental colors of green, navy and burgundy. This is where - what you wear - not only looks good but has some intelligence and thought behind it. Even if it's just you who understands what's going on.

The Trad & His Corgis

Introducing fine gauge

You don't get this on Gold Toe

You don't have to walk 'em

Heavier gauge blend

But a good one

You're gonna like your crossed legs...

I guarantee it

It's hard to criticize socks when so much of the sartorial world has driven off the Kenneth Cole cliff. Still, nothing can take a Savile Row suit and a pair Lobbs down to the gutter quicker than cheap socks. Likewise, nothing kicks up your khakis and Weejuns more than a luxury sock in an understated design. They say women notice men's shoes. I think they're looking at our socks.

Today Corgi makes socks in South Wales on hundred year old machines managed by a brother and sister who are the great, great, grandchildren of the the 1892 founder, Rhys Jones. They carry a Prince of Wales warrant and even offer a pair designed by the prince's son, William. They also make an argyle hose for the Scottish Highland Regiments. Each pair is made by hand and takes eight hours.

While royalty and Highland Regiments seem to always get all the good stuff -- Corgi offers up their custom services to you. Socks in cashmere with your initials (Dwight Eisenhower had a pair) can be ordered a pair at a time for a reasonable $100 while full bespoke of your own design require a minimum order of 5 dozen -- I'll help you work out a deal. I'm guessing you could have a lot of fun with these options. I have a pair of cashmere in the works with FTA for initials. Gonna wear them at my next army reunion at Ft Bragg. They'll be a hit.

I've been field testing the two pair you see in the photos. While I think they look great - - they feel even better. I cannot wear Gold Toe socks. The machine made toe (Corgi are made by hand) grabs my toes like a vice grip and all day long it drives me outta my mind. Cheap boxers do the same thing. To me. Not my toes.

Besides, life is just too damned short to wear ill fitting socks (or boxers). The old warning, 'Luxuries can quickly become necessities...' is true but Corgi is about putting your foot down and treating yourself to the very best. For a limited time Corgi is offering a 25% discount on their new fine gauge socks on orders over $50. Just type in, 'corgibytrad' when you place your order on line and don't forget to knock 17.5% off the price for VAT. That makes for a total of 42.5% off or what we called years ago, 'dollar / pound parity, yeah.' Go here for the details and start crossing your legs more.

Update: A reader commented the discount code didn't work. My fault. The special offer extends to the fine gauge socks only. Also, the initial sock is not on the web site yet. I'll check if you can order off the menu.