The Art of a Tie: Passagio Cravatte

I've always wanted the best.  Problem is, there's so damned little of it.  Gianni Cerrutti and I started a conversation back in early August.

My name is Gianni, Italian, and I am the founder of Passaggio Cravatte. This  I will write because I have a very important dream. And you can make it come true.

His English isn't the best and my Italian doesn't exist but like buying cheese in Paris -- some pointing to this or that, a key word  like Epoisses, and you're good to go.  I was offered a tie and asked to pick a few from a library of vintage silk, cotton and cashmere.  From a handful of my choices, Gianni would pick one but it would be a surprise until it showed on my door step.

We are unique in Europe and not only to have only true vintage fabrics. In fact, our fabrics have all aged between 40 and 60 years of life on his shoulders. They are still hand-printed and they are all limited edition. This is because after 2 ties the fabric ends.Beyond that evoke British regimental archives of 1930.

I can't imagine a better life than being a custom tie maker in Italy.  Hands down, it soars above George Costanza's choice of architect. Roaming around Lake Commo for bits and pieces here and there. A softly lit workroom with sunlight peering in through 200 year old glass windows over looking a cobble stone street. The quiet cutting of silk and the silence of seven folds and noiseless sewing...As the little boy admiring a library book of Gaugain's Tahiti says in "Goodbye Columbus, "Ain't that the fucking life."

We are the only ones making the old 7 folds in a single piece of silk. This is when all ties to the world are the union of 3 pieces of fabric. This is the Rolls of all ties to the world. Our 7 folds old is not to be confused with the modern one. In fact, ours is the original model that was born in the early 1900s. We do it like then. All without any internal and hemmed by hand. In addition we are always the only ones making the ties - always very exclusive - in just 2 pieces of fabric.

I wish I sold  good feelings but I sell insurance.  No sadness without joy - No joy without sadness.  Selling insurance is lot like selling tires  --  It's more a solution to a problem and people want to pay as little as they have to.  It's hard to show off your insurance company -- Unless you have Chubb -- But I digress...

Our tailors are in Naples and only work for us still in their homes. As more than a century ago. Us we finish, and we stretch the check because they must not have defects. The ironing is very important for us, in fact I do it directly. Even the label are strict with ourselves. Then, having many foreign customers we are also able to provide tailor-made vintage ties without disturbing the customer from their office or from home.

Gianna's tie arrives and it's this powerful combination of green, blue, and an orange red that matches a freshly painted guest bedroom.  The tie is a self tipped feather. So much so, that when I make the first loop, I almost expect it to fly away.  Instead of fat heavy silk stuffed with a lining -- this is a silk air mail envelope. Everywhere are hands: Rolled edges, tipping, the keeper...all of it a kind of imperfect perfection.  

Gianni sends another tie along as a surprise.  A simple four fold rep but in cashmere that has softened with time.  I've had a few cashmere ties but nothing this...It's so utterly soft that I decide I must line a closet in cedar just to protect it from the moths.

I'm probably going overboard but I almost always do when I find something that I know is in rare supply. These ties are little pieces of art and as art goes -- They're fairly reasonable at 80 to 120 Euros. Ever since my first non clip-on tie that was issued in the Army, I must have purchased well over 500.  I mean that.  And it's embarrassing to admit, but it has been 36 years.  Frankly, unless you're really clothes mad, you might be a little let down by Gianni's ties.

They are of an aesthetic that you must really appreciate.  You could buy a bunch of J. Crew ties for just one of Gianni's seven folds but everyday I listen to opera I don't understand,  I look at paintings I know nothing about, I drink wine and have no idea what it is -- But I'm  moved by it all and that makes me want to know more. When you get there...you'll know it.

Hello Dear,

Now I can tip the balance.

I think your tie is ready Mondays.

To what address shall I send?

Let me know and thank you for everything,

I can not wait to send it.

Gianni

Gianni Cerutti
Passagio Cravatte 

Briar Vintage in Philadelphia

62 North 3rd Street, Philadelphia, 215-627-1990

Neckwear ranges from $16-$60 depending on age/condition/rarity

1920s/30s cotton bathing suit Size 36- $225.00

Beaver Top hat Size 7- $175.00

Bermuda Jacket Size 40- $120.00

Frosh Hat Size 6&5/8- $35.00

1920s Sunglasses- $85.00

White Bucks 9.5D- $45.00

1950s Gulf medium work shirt and cap cover set-$250.00

1960s Izod Medium sweater- $55.00

1960s Madras Sport Coat Size 46- $68

Early Willson Tortoise Shell w/ Leather Driving Goggles- $250

1940s/50s "U" Football Jersey/Letterman Sweater Size M- $125.00

To Hell with Hitler - Sold (Assorted Vintage Pin-backs run from $10-$60)

1876 Centennial Legion Coatee Size 32- $350.00

Top Hat same from previous

Philadelphia never fails to contradict. Among the narrow 18th century streets I love so much, there's been - since my first move here in '85 -  a hip element looking for their place somewhere between Philadelphia's blue blood and blue collar.   Briar Vintage is a good example.  Chock full of vintage apparel history for a relative steal compared to NYC, there's also the post WWII kit I wouldn't be caught dead in.

Still, there's plenty of hidden treasures in Briar Vintage -- Just like Philadelphia.  I've always said that if Richard Daley were mayor of Philadelphia, he would bring the city back from the dead.  Daley wouldn't do Briar Vintage and its owner, David  Lochner any harm.

This vintage place is begging to be discovered...When I was there, a couple women walked in and asked if there were women's clothing for sale.  "No," said David. And before he could say another word they were out the door.  I know what David was gonna say..."Would you just try this hat on." She would've looked spectacular in it.

Bureau of Trade: A Different Kind of Commerce

Michael Moskowitz, founder of The Bureau of Trade, talks in these M60 machine gun, rapid fire bursts... a pause so the barrel won't over heat. A tilted head at a comment I make and Moskowitz sighs, "Hell is other people." I think I like this guy. Bright, funny and a little off the reservation, his web site is filled with great stuff for men. Some of it Ebay. Some of it directly sourced. Almost all of it (I hate Corvettes) unique, sophisticated and with witty observations I find pretty damned refreshing. Although, he should know the price for a 560 SL is just the cover charge for getting in to see the mechanic. Check out his web site here.

What was the inspiration for Bureau of Trade?

What we wear, what we buy, and what we put in or on ourselves tells or telegraphs a very specific message about who we are. What we value. What our station in life is. Even where and how we envision ourselves in the world. I have always been interested in the specific history and provenance of not just of objects, but of everything. And I want to celebrate the notion of slower consumption and more purposeful purchases.

After the fifteenth, or maybe the twentieth flash-sale site meandered into my inbox, hocking unwanted, overstock drek – but purporting to sell something of genuine value – I made up my mind. I left my job as a designer at IDEO, and started a company that would make men smarter, make them laugh, and connect men of discernment to products with a history, products with a story, and narrative merchandise.

How is it going? Popularity wise and money wise?

Our audience is active, growing, and exceeding all of our expectations. There clearly is an appetite not just for our editorial content, but for the unique products we feature everyday. We've sold 19th century jail doors, taxidermy werewolf hands, vintage cufflinks and chronographs, antique dental equipment and classic convertibles. But I think what the team is most proud of is that we've helped a few (featured) rescue dogs find loving homes.

How do you see it growing?

As we refine what we offer on the site, we're expanding our voice to other platforms, like GQ and Gizmodo, where our content will appear this fall. We're also expanding into the brick and mortar world: stay tuned for live auctions all around the country.

How do you select the featured products? Aesthetic aside -- do you have any requirements other than what grabs your eye?

Two words dictate our selection process: beauty and authenticity. We work with a tremendous team of curators from around the world to find objects of the rarest quality and richest history. We are not a discount site; we are a value site. Items don't cost more than they should, but they never cost less than they're worth.

John's Dunne Blazer

Dr Dillon would be proud -- If he remembered me. That's okay. I'll never forget him or the Norton Anthology of English Lit. I bought mine used and sold it the next semester. And like Dillon promised 28 years ago -- I've lived to regret it. Without Dillon's notes, I never could make sense of John Donne.

The shoulders of this bespoke Morty Sills blazer are roped. The lapel, sans button hole. Double vented with the back slightly longer than the front and a slight flare that jets out below the waist. It doesn't fit that well. Tight in the shoulders and arms but roomy in the waist. Sometimes "fit" is not the point.

The original owner had a fascinating life. Maybe a little will rub off. Maybe bad spirits. You never know. But for a quarter of what a China made blazer at Brooks Brothers will set me back, I have something with a story. The key is to never let anyone know. I know I just did, but ignore me for just this one post.

Mining The Vintage Vein - Part II

Designers are like dogs with bones. They'd much rather bury it than share it. Their holes of inspiration are all over Manhattan -- You just have to know where to look. John Gluckow of Strongarm Clothing & Supply Co. (SC&SC) is one such hole. A big hole and while John isn't hidden -- I'd say he's well camouflaged.

A lethargic elevator (I had a birthday on it) takes you to the 5th floor of 27 W 20th Street. It's one of those beautiful old buildings that most New Yorkers never look up to appreciate and the area is a target rich environment for the tourist brazen enough to ride off the Time's Square reservation. A few steps from Gramercy Tavern (Trad review here), Moore Brothers Wine (review coming) and Teddy Roosevelt's birthplace (historic NPS site of wild 1985 Ranger party), it's one of my favorite neighborhoods in the world.

Don't just show up. That would be rude. You're gonna have to call John Gluckow (917-453-3322) for an appointment. Tell him you read about SC&SC on the Trad. You don't need a lot of money but this isn't gonna be a $5 jaunt through a consignment shop. In fact, if you're anything like me, this will be a lot like standing in a whore house with your pants down and having no idea where to start. I'm not kidding. Gluckow really should provide an instruction manual.

Vintage can be hit and miss. Mostly miss. So much so, that when you find something barely passable, you tend to grab it. Never mind it doesn't fit or it's on its last legs. Here, everything you see would be gold in a typical thrift shop. John's vetted this place to the nth degree and the gold is everywhere you turn -- I kept stumbling over my trousers.

WWII and Vietnam era vintage khakis sit in a pile with striped morning suit trousers next to John Milius (a personal hero) shooting glasses, over a nickle presentation Zippo next to '60s Madras 3 button, button downs, next to a wagon wheel of ties next to...Anyway, you won't see much '70s Polly and Esther -- The bane fabric of any Trad vintage fanatic.

SC&SC is a source. What you see at Rugby, Crew & Hilfiger... it all came from here. How do I know? I haven't met a designer yet that was in the Army, Forest Service or Rodeo. This is where they come to learn and so can you.

Mining The Vintage Vein - Part I

Details on the who, what and where next week.