Squeezing the Tweed

Tie and shirt picked out by Ira at H Herzfeld

Can a 3 piece be worn without a sweat band?

Extreme hacking and ticket pockets

Ira picked the socks as well

The days for wearing this are coming to a quick end - - and in more ways than one. If this were Chicago you can safely assume you're not outta the Winter woods until May. By mid June it's hitting 103. I lived in Chicago for almost 20 years and I would never wear this suit there but if anything will motivate me from putting on another 20 pounds by next Winter --it'll be this suit. Mentioned earlier, it was discovered in a Polo outlet somewhere in Florida - - marked down from $4,000 to $350. Amazingly, it was explained by someone in the biz that Polo still makes a profit with that kind of mark down. Talk about fair warning.

I can assure you this suit will cause serious weight loss. Since it's cashmere and since most offices and apartments in NYC have adequate heat...you can roast alive in this thing. Even in the dead of winter. I rarely wear all three pieces but instead wear it sans waistcoat or just the jacket with cavalry twill trousers. By the way, I really hate it when I hear people say, "sans." Is this blog turning me into an asshole? Or is it this suit?

It's too much when all three pieces are worn together and not because of the heat. What looks so beautiful in an ad or magazine often loses something in translation. Affected is the word some may use. Handsome in the slick pages of a photo spread but way overboard in real life on the street. The Gulf Foxtrot calls it, "The Sir Conan Doyle suit." I assure you...it's not her idea of a compliment. I bought this a year ago but it seems so wrong today. Not so much because it's warm - - not because I look like an asshole in it - - but because it's wrong today.

Cashmere & Magazines

Last year I was buried in a stack of magazines at Gallagher's Bookstore. I'd give you the address and introduce you to the owners but they closed. Forced out by the capitalist, real estate pigs of Manhattan who jack up their rents a hundred fold because Starbucks will not blink at $30,000 a month rent for 1,200 square feet!

Sorry - carried away there.

Anyway, the owners are a lovely couple with two adorable children. A quick aside: I think most children are morons. I mean, they're supposed to be. I understand that. But the Gallagher boy is a pistol. He's about eight and knows more profanity than I do. What a great life - - growing up in a bookstore with an Irish mum and brilliant dad who has sold to every designer (including R.L. himself) in NYC who steals from these old magazines. What magazines? THE magazine. Apparel Arts.

Covered here and here in earlier posts, I have been scouring ebay, Gallagher's and out of the way bookstores in every one horse town I roll thru in hopes of, like finding that Porsche Speedster in a farmer's barn, finding an entire collection of Apparel Arts for, "Oh, there just collecting dust round here (spits) - - I'll let you have 'em for ten bucks a piece." Why, thank you farmer Brown. Have a pouch of Redman on me.

Instead, they're going for north of $400 an issue and that's on Ebay. One of the last times I was in Gallagher's I picked up Volume II of the Gruppo published reprint. Mike looked at me and knowing how cheap I am (my last visit I walked from, "M" The Civilized Man magazines that were $20 a piece) he asked, "You know this a hundred bucks?"

There's two other volumes that go with this and I can't find them anywhere - - at any price. Some wonderful illustrations in this "business" volume with hints to retailers for ad layout, displays, store design, how to sell quality in a depression...interesting stuff.

The suit you see was advertised in the back of the publication and it's a dead ringer for a Ralph Lauren Purple Label, three piece tweed made from 100% cashmere. Two maybe three seasons old. While booksellers in one horse towns know the value of their stock - - it would seem Polo outlets do not. I purchased the cashmere suit ("Ohhh, Georgie. Cashmeeeere...) for $350.00 from the Orlando Polo outlet. It retailed for $4,000.

Normally, I would have Mr Peppino (across from Bloomingdale's) handle the alterations but Bhambi Tailors (across from Barneys) came highly recommened from a salesman (Ira) at Herzfeld. Ira helped me with a tattersall shirt and the perfect tie. The last time I saw Ira he almost threw a rope around me and pulled me into the store (57th between Park and Lex) where he showed me a beautiful tattersall waistcoat. Only $450. Geez, Ira...I didn't pay that for my suit. The tailoring? It too was more than the suit. Almost double. Working sleeve buttons, lined cuff bottoms, lined seat and a vest. Four fittings. Nice people.

And that damned magazine I want is more than the suit. Still, if you looking for old fashion mags try Mike at incink@hotmail.com and they may be able to help. The store is gone but they still have an impressive inventory...as well as children. One last observation. Sans the Polo Outlet, everyone associated with this post: Mike at Gallagher's, Mr Bhambi at Bhambis, Ira at Herzfeld...all are passionate about what they do. They all know their stuff to be sure but they all really love what they do and it shows.