Showing posts with label The Blue Blazer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Blue Blazer. Show all posts

12 March 2011

Saturday Steals: The Navy Blazer

Hunter & Coggins Poly Wool Blazer: Reduced from $185 to $155


J Press Cashmere Blazer: Reduced from $895 to $537

An old college buddy follows The Trad and he called me up last week with a question.

"I haven't worn a suit to work in 10 years. But sometimes I meet a client and I wanna show some deference. Not enough to make him uncomfortable but enough to show I made an effort. You know?"

There's been a ton written about 'Casual Friday' since the early '90s, but not much about how to make a low key impression. The mistake is to break out the chalk stripe suit, seven fold tie and double cuff Royal Swiss cotton shirt. It's all very elegant but it's too much today. Hell, it was probably too much yesterday.

There's no reason the understated navy blazer can't be more than the sum of its parts. Basic Training is the center vent, darted, poly wool piece of crap my mother bought for me in high school. It's not meant to last beyond three or four dry cleanings when the glue holding it together melts and puckers. Good for a wedding, a couple funerals and high school graduation pictures. Cheap, right as rain and discreet.

And still available it appears. This ad for Hunter & Coggins ran in the recent New Yorker touting $155 blazers. If you need something you can throw on the back seat of your car, and replace cheaply because of too many client lunches-- then this baby is for you. It even comes in a bizarre array of colors to suit junior high school coaches throughout the southeast. I've warned you off the maroon. In fact, I would advise there's only navy and hunter green, but you do what you want. It's your $155.

Way the hell over on the other side of the blazer tracks lives cashmere. She's warm in the winter but cool enough for summer. No one will pay her any attention until the client slaps you on the shoulder or she touches your sleeve. You'll see the change in their face as they leave their hand on the goods for another moment. Finally, as they take their filthy mitts off you they'll say, "What is that? It's so, so, sofffttt." And you say, "It's cashmere..." drawing out the 'mere' while you blush with humility.

Either way, your client will be glad he's doing business with you. You're not making enough to afford anything but a $155 blazer-- or-- because you were discreet and humble enough to wear the very best and not bang a drum about it. Although, you may have troubles increasing your fee. If that's the case, tell him you got it on sale at J Press. He won't know who that is, but if he has half a brain he'll google J Press after you leave and order one for himself.

14 December 2010

Turning Down The DB Blazer

M Magazine - April 1986 (click on image to read text)


Cashmere blazer and turtleneck

Turning the DB down with corduroy

A reader asked,

"On this note of tieless dressing - help me out. What the hell do I do with a blue blazer, double breasted one, brass buttons etc..I love it on the hanger, but everytime I put it on I seem...overdressed, too sea captain?? Any thoughts? Casual with jeans? - the great zamboni"

There is the natural aversion to a DB blazer with a turtleneck. Especially a white one. Bad memories are triggered of my days working for the Boss, having my ass chewed and being forced to eat cinnamon toast somewhere in Tampa.

But as 'M' Magazine so elegantly presents above, it can be done with understated taste. After all, I don't care how much money George had. He was from Cleveland. Anyway, 'M' answers the Zamboni question better than I ever could and with much fewer words.

The cords are a great touch and everything here is about texture rather than color. The ribbed turtleneck. The ribbed trouser. The ribbed thing in his wallet. All contrasting against the smooth surface of the blazer. Casual but not sea captain. Or, baseball team owner.

08 January 2010

Friday Belts I Can't Own or Make: The Blue Blazer & Alan Flusser







Gary can't get The Blue Blazer going until 7:37 in but it's worth the wait

Alan Flusser's Custom Shop sits off 5th Avenue on 48th Street next to the old Scribner's book store and it is a very dangerous place. When Thomas Wolfe was paid for 'Look Homeward, Angel' he stepped out of Scribner's with the check in hand and walked north in a daze. He wasn't aware of where he was until 125th Street. Had Flusser been in business then I suspect he would have only had to walk around the block into 3 E. 48th and take the elevator to four.

I adore this place. The richness of just about everything here is overwhelming. It's like a museum and ADG at Maxminimus got me in with a warm introduction before he knew I was Joe Shit the Ragman. Everywhere you look there's perfection. The socks are perfect. The shoes are perfect. Even the belts are perfect.

Alligator tab surcingles in three patterns of perfect Spring and Summer haberdashery. But the warning bells were ringing. I didn't want to know how much they were. I was that scared. I've learned in NYC to take a guess at what something costs and then multiply it by four. These are too rich for my blood and my self preservation kicked in and got me out of there alive. Although I never wanted to leave.

Michael Batterberry is someone who belongs in Flusser's shop. This erudite editor of Food Arts Magazine was last seen on The Trad dining at Le Veau d'Or with Anthony Bourdain. Batterberry and his wife Ariane co-authored this book on NYC restaurant history going back to the American Revolution. If you love history and restaurants this book will blow you outta the water - - bottled or tap.

The book really starts to move around the late 19th century but I found the slower 18th and early 19th centuries to be most enjoyable. Amazing characters, rich food and bizarre appetites for alcohol. Above is an 18th century recipe for a cocktail called the Blue Blazer. Sounds simple enough. Whiskey and hot water. Light it and pour it back and forth between two cups. I don't mind a little risk but I'll be honest...I'm a klutz. I was told in the army I could fuck up an anvil with a rotten banana. And as much as I wanted to give this a try...I know myself too well. But that doesn't mean you can't give it a go. Fire is good. And fire can kill. I feel the same way about Flusser.