26 January 2011

The Power of the Armory

Golf Foxtrot snags opening night. I had to wait...



...until last night.


Ball & Claw...


versus Tomato & Claw.


And while it's not opening night -- it sure was a fun night.


There's a 'feel' about this show.

The quality is here.


And so are the red heads.


But while the Delaware Antique Show (seen here) is nothing to be sneezed at...


The NY Winter Antiques Show isn't so much about money...


and Delaware tax free shopping...


as much as it's about power.


and the armory hums with it.


It's clear to me...


that this show is about men.


Men who not only have the knowledge of what they want...


but the ability to secure it.


Cost be damned.


There's wonderful style here.


Not just in the things...


but in the people as well. The cookies were fantastic.

25 January 2011

Cold Comfort

David Mercer's Bold Multi Plaid 763 & J. Press Shaggy Dog

Was moving to Chicago when a buddy from New York asked if I had "Chicago" gloves. I pull a pair of B-squared outta my pocket. He looks. Shakes his head, "Those aren't gonna cut it." It took one Chicago winter for me to figure that out. But I swear - (holy shit it's cold) - New York has turned into Chicago.

A sadistic wind blows cross town and walking west for five minutes reminds me of my first Slurpee brain freeze. Eyes tear up and ears sting. I cross streets against red lights and when cars honk I give them my best, "You have heat. I have the right of way."

The problem with Chicago winters is they go on forever. In March you still have snow up to your pipik. I don't know how many times I froze my ass off at the Cub's opener. Early May could be rain and 37 degrees. Then it's June and 100 degrees. Seems to me New York is doing a helluva impersonation. Only problem is we don't have Daley here. Our mayor lives in Bermuda.

Winter depression can be overcome with caution (never listen to the wind chill) and an optimistic color wheel. This is no time for Joseph Abboud's earth shades. That stuff'll have you jumping off a building. You need bold color just so everyone knows you're laughing. You're actually crying 'cause the wind is ripping your forehead off but they'll all think your laughing. That or you're a circus clown.

24 January 2011

I Need This Today



It's cold and I thought these might make me feel better. I was right.

23 January 2011

MRket NY / Vanguard


Last week in NYC


The Javit's Center hosted a boat show and the MRket show... I worked with a guy who took a model to the Boat Show. He put a $40,000 deposit on a yacht that knocked the model off her heels. That night she knocked him out of his Aldens. He stopped payment on the check the next day.


You see a lot of guys at boat shows with arm candy. I wonder if the word is out. I skipped the boats...


Black Watch is the new black


Bill's Khakis made in the US shetland

Corgi cable cashmere and


and new stripes this Fall.

Dents has a new orange cashmere lining.


Mean Ed Green

Bentley Cravats

Army beat


Navy.

There is nothing worse than attending a Metal Extruder show in Chicago in January. Except trying to sell insurance at the Metal Extruder show. There were reminders of extruders at the MRket NYC / Vanguard show but booths were filled with Italian, British and US apparel all headed for shelves this Fall.

An Edward Green rep may have put me off their shoes forever but Walter Schik of Bentley Cravats was warm and inviting while John Roberts of Dents hit me with a fake tackle when he caught me photographing his new line of gloves. Just like an extruder show...

21 January 2011

A Stationery Wardrobe


Jonathan Arnold and Jenine Ferrari of Dempsey & Carroll. Imagination and fun.


Arnold's Stationery Wardrobe


Imaginative.

Understated.

Simple.


Unique - 3 3/4 X 7 1/4


Fun. Arnold found the fabric. Mr Ned custom made the pant. Dempsey & Carroll did the envelopes. I don't remember in what order.


Good Value. I found $20 cards to go with some shirts I own.

Try finding a stationery engraver in this country. It ain't easy. Dempsey and Carroll offer 120 typefaces and 30 inks not to mention a whole lot of ephemeral imagination through Jonathan and Jenine. I'm working on a "Classic Film" line of stationery. First up is:

C.C. Baxter

51 West 67th Street

New York City, N.Y.

"But everyone calls me, Bud."

20 January 2011

Cold Shot To The Heart


I've known Wally Stroby for 30 years. We drank the heart out of a cool August night on a London sidewalk and could barely raise our arms to get a taxi. We've traveled for days on I-95. Me listening to his shitty music. Wally listening to my shitty music. I love him like the brother I never had.

We shared a house one Summer next to the food stamp office on Weeden Street in St. Augustine. Wally worked 'til 11 PM and when he came home he'd sit in the living room with the lights off and watch the roaches come out and eat ashes out of my government ash tray.

In college we called him the man in black. His favorite color often matched his mood. It's no wonder he turned to crime noir. His fourth novel, Cold Shot To The Heart, features Crissa Stone, "...a pro. She never works close to home, never works with the same crew, and never rushes a job."

Crissa's a character I'm not fond of. Stroby's first two novels followed retired NJ state trooper Harry Rane around. Trad Dad's one sentence review of Harry was, "He's always putting his dick in places it doesn't belong." Crissa lacks a dick but she sure does get a lot of her friends killed.

All by a character I did fall in love with. Eddie the Saint. Eddie, just out of jail, pays a visit to Casco who owes Eddie $40,000.

"Casco leaned forward, brought out a red ledger book bound lengthwise with a rubber band. He looked at Eddie, put it atop the safe.
'What's in the back?' Eddie said.
'Where?'
'In the back, on that shelf.'
'I don't see anything.'
'Get down there and take a look.'
'Eddie, I got a bum knee.'
'You're younger than me. You'll be fine.'
'I swear, Eddie...' He knelt, winced. 'I don't see anything.'
'All the way in the back there.'
When Casco leaned forward, his face in the safe, Eddie put a foot between his shoulder blades to hold him there, shot him twice in the back of the head. ...The sound of the shots echoed off the paneling. Brass clinked on the floor."

Eddie's a stone cold psychopath but with a certain style that reminded me of Johnny Harrow from The Heartbreak Lounge. But Cold Shot ain't bad. It's clunky in the beginning, there's a poorly researched rappelling scene and Crissa stores her wine on top of the fridge but at 80 pages the story hit a patch of black ice and slammed me to the ending.

"Nothing behind her now. Nothing but the night ahead. But she had a name, a suitcase full of cash, a car, and a gun. It was a start."

18 January 2011

Doing Time in Correctional Chic

Correctional chic - Only $500


Raiford Prison - A nice runway for a fashion show


Burt in tasty chambray

Inmate Pn3031098

"Lets go get a latte"

One of my first job leads interviews - in that crap-fest economy of 1984 - was as a 'Classification's Officer' at what is now Florida State Prison but was then simply known as Raiford. I was given a tour and told about life 'under the whistle,' free car washes, hand made wallets and the luxury of life as a non-inmate living on prison grounds. The pay wasn't bad, free housing and most meals were free. I thought it would be a hell of an experience.

The prospect of this life ended when I was shown the graveyard for prisoners who died or were executed (by Old Sparky - the electric chair) and whose remains were not claimed. The graves had no names -- only the deceased's number stamped into aluminum. As I looked at the sunken plots all talk of the position; "You'll be assigning jobs when they come in and helping 'em get jobs when they get out," was lost on me. I knew I would never come back to this shit hole. So far so good.

About two years ago I first saw prison denim showing up in the Japanese men's magazines. Huge, Men's Club and even Last. I remember thinking, "Only the Japanese" but the look has moved to America. I'm not sure what critics of aspirational dress would call dressing like a prisoner circa 1945. Maybe, "Heritage Correctional" or "Aspirational Incarceration."

I know I have defended anyone's right to wear whatever the hell they want. "You can tell me I shouldn't wear it but no one can tell me I can't," was my bumper sticker slogan in defense of work wear seen here. With some hindsight I'd like to change that to, "Better you than me."