I'm not a big Fashion Week kind'a guy. I live less than 10 blocks from Lincoln Center and have avoided the place like it had the plague. There's a sameness to fashion and the strap hangers (Army for, along for the ride) that is no longer all that surprising to me. Michael Bastian is different.
I don't like or get everything. Bastian's inspiration came from a 1974 NY Times piece about men in NYC who were favored for party invites due to their charm, intelligent conversation and, I presume, they were always single. A reprint of the article was included with the show notes and I was proud to see an insurance executive on the list. We're not usually included with intelligent conversation.
It's outta the box inspiration for a collection that stands out mostly because of what it's up against. The work wear, heritage, denim apron, chop wood, aesthetic lacks sophistication and probably owes more to bad taste than anyone, certainly in the media, is willing to admit. Those people are not gonna rock a boat they may be getting on someday.
Most of what came down the tarmac (I refuse to use that other word) was easily wearable. And what wasn't could be toned down without too much effort. The navy chalk stripe with red gingham spread collar shirt was right outta London and kicked the show off with an audible, "Whoa" from the crowd.
I'm guessing the men in that NY Times piece knew London well. One button single breasted peak lapels, contrasting and cutaway collars, suede tassel loafers, windowpane, moleskin, quilted coats...These terms are not native to New York in the '70s as much as they were brought to NYC from London.
Where ever Bastian's inspiration comes from -- it's obvious he didn't pick it up from watching Barney Miller reruns. What amazes me is Bernardo Rojo from Joseph Abboud did.
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11 comments:
"Where ever Bastian's inspiration comes from..."- Charles Schultz?
(Keep the M stuff coming!)
Thank you for the coverage of the show. I was never a big follower of Charlie Brown, but that yellow sweater is a fun nod to him (I think).
Is there any chance you could post the NY Times piece?
Thanks!
I was disposed to be unkind towards Mr. Bastian until I remembered I am not his target market. I give Mr. Bastian credit though for the obvious sincerity of his efforts and the care, with which he executes. I am just a younger old fogey. He’ll catch up to me eventually.
There is a huge cultural gap between those over and under 35 years of age. If you’re not sure what Jermyn, Carnaby and Saville are and you want to buy clothes that incubate dissatisfaction once one discovers that the waist is too tight, the jacket too short and the lapel is notched somewhere over your shoulder, then go right ahead. Keeps the economy moving like Keynes’ “broken window.” That is the privilege of youth.
It still confuses me that if a clothing line references London, why not just go to the source rather than indulge strange reflections. Or pair some T&A shirting with some Brooks/Andover/Press suiting with a splash of Italian neckwear. Too hard for most? That is privilege of experience.
Mr. Bastian seems to live in the transitional middle where no one else does and that is how I think he stands out from the crowd.
Makaga- I'll see what i can do.
Oyster Guy- That is one of the best damned comments ever. Insightful and dead on.
Where's my 99 cents? Should make it an even buck for not using "colour". Cash, no cheques. One day I am coming to collect!
Oyster Guy- $1.00 Canadian with rights reverting back to you in 99 years. Just 'cause I'm generous.
Michael Bastian: worth the wait. Also, as you say, (most likely) easily wearable. And like last time, the crowd on the edge of the show in your photos are unintentionally always fun to look at.
-DB
Makaga- Times piece is up.
Is that the photo of the "The navy chalk stripe with red gingham spread collar shirt...right outta London and kicked the show off with an audible, "Whoa" from the crowd."? Yuck, it's screaming Capriccio's in Providence on a Friday night..."You-a gonna sitta witha me, doll?" I'd probably love the red gingham shirt, though...
That Times piece is great -- both because a party with Charles Addams and Norman Mailer sounds like a hell of a lot of fun, and because Tom Joy's company should be calling me any day to taste-test gum or smell soap or something.
Thanks, Tintin!
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