14 January 2010

Bemberg Part II

The other side of yesterday's purple lining. Worn with an old Airey & Wheeler shirt and a very old Feragamo tie. I don't think the suit has been pressed since I bought it and it certainly shows along with a couple lunches on the lapels.


Brummagem Joe said...

Way too busy Tintin....everything is visually the same weight......but when you've got a lining that creates "wetness".....what the heck

tintin said...

Joe- I know. But it's how I roll.

Anonymous said...

mello greetings, yukey dukey.

initials CG said...

Now that's a DB!

I like the slimmer lapel...

Sean said...

I have a 6 button DB suit where only the bottom button closes.

Does anyone know whether a good tailor can add the second button hole, like this suit here?

Brummagem Joe said...

tintin said...
"Joe- I know. But it's how I roll."

......You like the Goodfellas' look?......I thought you were a preppy trad child?

tintin said...

cg- There were three lapel options and I went with the middle. They also got pissy with me when I asked for button holes on both lapels. Compared to anything from the Poole or Anderson & Shepard the tailoring on this is pretty bad but for the first MTM it worked and has been a favorite. Even the guys at Lloyd's like it.

Sean- In NYC there are people who only do button holes in the garment district. Most tailors sub out to them. Call the best tailor in town and ask them. Shouuldn't be a problem.

Joe- I would hardly call this Goodfellas. Please tell me why you think it is.

And you haven't read very far into the trad if you think I only dress as a preppy child. Pour yourself a drink and go back a few months or years.

Brummagem Joe said...

Joe- I would hardly call this Goodfellas. Please tell me why you think it is.

....Are you kidding?....db striped suit.....shirt in almost exactly the same color range/ shirt with visually if not actual stripe weight with contrasting white collar (don't tell me the cuffs are white too)....Capone tie.....don't want to rain on your parade tintin but this is a great looking "power" suit that calls out for restraint....if you're bored by just a plain white shirt and a say a Charvet style dark blue/light blue, dark blue/silver or maybe dark blue/pink basket weave or dot type patterns and maybe want to play with patterns how about a small ie. pinstripe or 1/8" wide max blue white stripe with a strong broad diagonal stripe in burgundy/dark blue or how about a tiny blue white check (pale blue gingham)with similar tie.....just some suggestions to maintain the batting average on wetness.....and I'm just having my first martini!

Brian said...

Off topic but how did you make out with the shirts from Wright & Simon. The suit, shirt, and tie do look good though.

tintin said...

Joe- Funny. I'm on my first martini as well. I have a sense of where you're coming from but...

1. I don't like Charvet ties. I have four of them and can't stand them. They snag, the quality is no longer there (if it ever was) and they're a poor value.

I do like small basket weave patterns and find the house tie at Paul Stuart is better than Charvet for 1/3 of the price.

2. Feragamo is Capone? You need another martini but be remember...Martinis are like women's breasts -- one's not enough and three's too many.

3. I quit wearing pinstripe shirts about 10 years ago. Almost a cliche cornered by middle aged American insurance agents from Texas in London for the first time. You can always see them buying ties at Charvet "'cause they is all about quality..."

4. That shirt ain't Italian, mate. You're looking at the width of the shirt and the width of the chalk stripes. I agree. They're too close but I have rarely seen a black stripe butcher stripe and like it with this suit. Sue me. Of course, if I were in California I'd just go to Nordstrom and have them dress me like a TV anchor.

Brian- I'm picking them up 'em this week.

Brummagem Joe said...

"I don't like Charvet ties."

.....Note I said Charvet 'style'...as you point out there are plenty of lookalikes....I get most of mine from Harvie and Hudson or Hilditch and Key....We're talking about the 'look' to go with your suit

"Feragamo is Capone?'

....Again we're talking "look" not brand names....this particular Ferragamo bears more than a passing resemblance to those painted ties of cuties that were popular in the 30/40's...it would look great with a sportcoat or maybe a tan lightweight suit...db blue chalk....naah.

" I quit wearing pinstripe shirts about 10 years ago.'

....1/8" isn't pinstripe and then it depends what you mean by a pinstripe....I think my definition of a pinstripe is probably somewhat bolder than of those of your notional insurance agents

"and have them dress me like a TV anchor."

.....actually some of the anchors dress very well like the late Peter Jennings (he was the only American/Canadian I've ever seen wearing white tie correctly since Harriman and Acheson) ....and I rather doubt they go to Nordstrom....take the comments in the spirit they're intended.....believe me having experimented with most combos ultimately I've come to the conclusion classic with some envelope pushing is best.

tintin said...

Joe- I'm fine with your comments. As I said, go back a few months and you'll see lots of us don't agree here and I'll always post comments that do not agree with my taste.

Speaking of which, if you think most anchors dress well then I really can't agree. And I do happen to know Nordstrom dresses a few.

I'm also very familiar with Harvie and Hudson (the never ending 3 for 99 pounds shirt sale) and H&K. Great shirts and nice ties but never saw basket weaves. Still, I may have missed it. H&K still match stripes yoke to sleeve on their shirts and their ties were always boring to me.

Brummagem Joe said...

"if you think most anchors dress well then I really can't agree."

.....Did I say that?.....I thought I said "some" and gave an example of Jennings....if you thought he dressed badly I'm afraid I can't agree....he was outstanding and there's not very much wrong with Lester Holt today......Williams I agree is dull.....and what about Mr Goldilocks on MSNBC....his economic punditry is bs but he has great suits and haberdashery.

"I'm also very familiar with Harvie and Hudson"

......These guys have been making my shirts for forty years so I'm a fan...they are just about the only family owned business still on Jermyn street (all the others are owned by conglomerates or private equity firms) so if they have to sell some volume @ 55 bucks a pop to survive they should be applauded .....and it's not a bad shirt even though they get them made outside Britain....much better value than say the Pink of similar provenance which costs at least twice as much......H&K's classic foulards (eg. white mini dot on blue) are actually pretty good and produce a very well sculpted knot although I agree about their Macclesfields.....Actually I think the best tie maker on JS these days is Emma Willis (six of her classics and say six knits from Paul Stuart would probably provide all the ties one would ever need!...not that this would dissuade me from buying more as I'm obviously a tie queen)

ADG said...

TameTame...the tie is good. The suit is good. The shirt-not so much good.

Brummagem Joe said...

tintin: since you were waxing lyrical about Flusser the other day I just checked his site and voila! he has a couple of blue chalk stripes up; one worsted with a 1/8" stripe shirt and solid tie and another flannel with blue gingham shirt and solid mulberry wool tie....both are where I'm coming from....the blue worsted chalk stripe along with the plain blue worsted are just about the most "formal" suits you can buy outside of morning dress and they demand austerity, even it it's loud austerity, in shirt and tie partnering......sorry to beat it to death but unsatisfactory tie/shirt/suit combos along with too long pants are particular bete noirs of mine.....I'm just trying to increase the frequency of your wetness encounters!!! lol.

tintin said...

Joe - I have a number of Harvie and Hudson shirts and they all say made in England. Don't tell me they followed Pink to Eastern Europe?

ADG- That shirt is Nads. So big I can't walk.

Joe- I agree with the pants but I still like my shirt.

Brummagem Joe said...


....I believe they stopped making their off the shelf shirts in Britain a few years ago but it's still a pretty good shirt.....I bought three flannel ones last summer because after a few washes you can't tell a custom from an off the shelf flannel so why pay extra.

.....the pant problem arises because most guys have the cuffs measured with the pants around their waist....then take delivery, wear a belt and in five minutes have 2-3 inches of rather prettily folded fabric around their ankles.