The Story of Underwear

(Used with permission)


(Used with permission)


(Used with permission)








(Used with permission)


(Used with permission)

















(Used with permission)












This week: Boxers - Briefs - Going Commando

US Book here. UK Book here. Author's photos used with permission. I'm working on the others.

The Friday Belt : Flusser's Dry Manhattan

A retired FBI agent, Mr. Page, teaches sex crimes in the Florida Police Standards Course (police academy) and would weave his bizarre sense of humor into lectures. "There's a man in Jacksonville who can't get an erection unless there's a blue feather sticking in his ass." Half hour later Page pulls back his suit jacket to reveal a blue feather sticking out of his shirt pocket.

Page is at his lectern one afternoon, "A cop in Daytona was in high speed pursuit when he crashed into a wall. Horrible. Poor bastard was unconscious for months. He came to and was starving but could only mumble, 'Ah ghata eett sompun.' The doc says, "You gotta eat something?" 'Ya!' says the cop. 'But your mouth is wired shut due to the operation.' says the Doc. 'Am starvin!" says the cop. 'Okay' says the doc. 'I guess we could feed you through your rectum.' 'Enethen!' says the cop.

So they set the cop up in bed and raise his posterior. The doc puts a clamp in his ass and winds it open. The doc asks the cop, 'Is there anything you'd like to start with?' Cop says, 'I alwayz lik a cuppa coffee for ah start a meal.' Doc says, 'A cup of coffee?' Cop says, 'Ya.'

A nurse hands the doc a cup of coffee and he pours it into the cop's rectum. 'Schtooop! Da pain...etz too muucch!' screams the cop. 'Too hot?' says the doc. 'No.' says the cop... 'Too sweet.'

I still don't get it.


I covered the 'Manhattan' cocktail here in the first Friday Belt. Sazerac rye ($27) and Carpano Antica vermouth ($31) with bitters. Today, thanks to my new economy, we're gonna do a Manhattan for less than half of what we did it for over two years ago. I think it's better. Not too sweet. You with me? Good.


The problem is the vermouth. It's sweet. You need a bone dry rye to remedy that. Old Overholt is about as dry as you'll find. A perfect rye for the Manhattan and cheap as dirt. Between $10 to $15. A bunch of new rye is being heavily marketed and it's insanely overpriced. I suppose to pay for all that marketing. You may be inclined to think these brands are pouring coffee down your... but take comfort -- they'll be found out for what they are.



I used Dolin Rouge vermouth for two reasons. It's not sweet at all and it has history. They've been making this stuff with the same recipe since 1821. And while I would not be inclined to drink Overholt straight -- Dolin Rouge is fantastic with a little ice or sipped like a port.

Bitters, while expensive for what they are, last forever. They're the hidden value because they have such an impact on the drink. I used Fee Brothers West Indian Orange and Whiskey Barrel Aged. A shake of each is damned plenty.


If you're a Maker's Mark Manhattan drinker give the dry Manhattan a try. It's highly evolved and a very smart buy. Last Friday I was pretending to be highly evolved when I received an email from a designer friend. "You going to this flusser sample sale? 246 5th at 28th. 5th Floor." Never too proud to be out of the loop, I write back, "Flusser sample sale?!"



I'm out the door and burning down street when I get more details. Lot's of suits, shirts, socks, belts but no shoes. I get there and am astounded to see some 30 bolts of wool and cotton. The designer snags a beautiful bolt of madras that I'm sure you'll see in Saks SS/2012. Some guy with a strange accent throws on a white linen patch pocket sport jacket with side vents. Fits him like a glove.


I found a belt. But for me - it's a belt I've coveted ever since I saw it on my first visit to Flusser's shop. I cried about it here in an earlier Friday Belt post. Unable to afford this croc-surcingle master piece when I was flush -- somehow it finds its way back to me when I'm poor. Any hump can parade into Polo or Hilfiger and buy seven of these, 12 of those and slap down the platinum card. But when you find something you loved, but had to walk away from -- and you find it again and make it yours -- You're tempted to wear it everyday.

What's In Your Wallet? Aaron Levine

(Photos: Mine not yours)

The 'Clock Sock'

Apparel Arts Magazine - Summer 1932

The hose selection is at five o'clock. On the bottom of the left page is the kit with the clock sock closest to my own. It suggests two ties at 10 & 2 o'clock. I prefer 2 o'clock. I'm guessing that's a white linen jacket (center top) with gray wool trousers (center bottom), a blue shirt (8 o'clock) and white bucks (6 o'clock).


Clothes and the Man by Alan Flusser - 1985

Flusser gives the easiest to understand advice about socks I've ever read. You're not going to find anything that sums up the wearing of hose better than this. In today's retail establishments socks are kept far away from suits. Sometimes on another floor. I remember going to pick up a suit at Britches of Georgetown in the '80s and the salesman would have my suit and a couple shirt and tie options with hose spread out on a billiards table in the back of the store. I didn't appreciate then. I'd really appreciate it now.

The Trad's Sock Drawer - Spring 2011

I've only become a fan of the 'Clock Sock' in the last six or so years. At first glance they reminded me of those nasty socks worn by skinny southern men with long necks in plastic and wire frame glasses and who, you were pretty darned sure, wore white sheets on weekend nights.

I've come around after seeing them in Apparel Arts Magazine. Mine are embroidered wool but feather light. They exude a '30s charm of discreet pattern and quiet elegance known only to the wearer, the man who shines his shoes and the woman who takes them off.

The Morning Suit: Rules Rule

We've come a long way (photo Men's Wearhouse)


She's seen the future (from Trad Private Collection)



A Gentleman's Wardrobe by Paul Keer 1987 (click to read)



ABC of Men's Fashion by Hardy Aimes 1964 & 2o07 (click to read)




Duke of Windsor's Morning Suit from Sotheby's Auction Catalog




Gentry Magazine Summer 1952

Did you get all that? It's not difficult. Morning Dress is worn during the day. Before 5PM and not after 7PM. Most Morning Coats will have a peak lapel but Brooks Brothers sells a Golden Fleece Morning Suit with notch lapel. Not sure why that is. The tails of the coat should end close to the break of the knee.

Trousers are wool and I recommend you buy as light a wool as you can find. A Morning Suit can get pretty warm. Waistcoats are offered in linen as well. Boots work well and you don't have to sweat the color of socks. I'm just not into seeing socks with these trousers -- Checked or striped.

An earlier comment suggested a shirt with detachable collar. They do look better but I gave my only one away. Check out Keezers in Boston, Hornets in London and eBay (including the UK) for significant savings. You can buy decent kit for what it could cost to rent that train wreck up there from Men's Wearhouse.

Will it sit in the back of your closet collecting dust? Mine does, but I know it's there and that's comforting. When my boss is chewing my ass off I can lean back in my chair and think of my Morning Suit while I contemplate his Cole Haan kilties and my new found poverty.

The Morning Suit - All Dressed Up With No Place to Go

One can hope the royal wedding brings back more than hats. My Morning Suit has been cobbled together piece by piece over many years. The Henry Poole coat was cut by Angus Cundey in 1992 and purchased second hand from the owner in 2001.

The raw silk cravat and three waistcoats, all Favourbrook, were found at an Off 5th outlet in Orlando. The trousers were purchased at Hornets. I have no idea if any of it will ever see a wedding in the states. My only hope may be Ascot.

There are rules (tomorrow) but there's room for creativity in waistcoats, shirts and ties. The first option is double cuff spread collar shirt, purple cravat and lavender waistcoat. A bit daring. I might be confused for someone who works in advertising.

The same shirt is paired with a brown lapel waistcoat and Hermes ice fishing tie. I don't get it either but it works. If asked, one can always claim ignorance of any significance. The English will assume you're being coy and, if they get drunk enough, they'll tell you what it means.

The Hermes Griffin tie is paired with a blue double cuff shirt and silver waistcoat. Very boring insurance-man, lunch at Ball Brothers, Renault company car, looking, but showing some flair - albeit mostly in the vest.

The Chanel Porpoise tie with the same blue shirt and waistcoat is my favorite for a London wedding. It's very old and chances are I won't run into it. Not that I won't run into someone on the dance floor.

I read that in the 18th Century American colonists were savagely criticized for their apparel choices when visiting London by the natives. Nothing much has changed there. Still, they may give you some credit for making the effort and for loving their traditions.

An English Wedding...

My first English wedding was out of a Richard Curtis movie almost 20 years ago in a wood named suburb south of London. Every man wore Morning Dress except for the Septics. I never felt so under dressed in my life. There is a long bridge between the English and American wedding. Americans would like to say our weddings are not as stuffy. These Americans have never been to an English wedding.

It starts out formal enough but Morning (sometimes even Frock) coats are abandoned about the time dancing starts. Champagne bottles are replaced with Beck's. Ash trays overflow and smear white table linen with Silk Cut streaks. The back of heads are wet with sweat while serious dry humping takes place on the dance floor. Still, these people never lose an innate style I believe they're born with.

Fathers show a restraint with gray Macclesfield ties and gray waistcoats that match their hair as it flies away just above the ear. The Mothers, thick with ginger cake and biscuits, are beautiful in hats, cream lace and big smiles with red lipstick.

The 'V' Trendy will break out the Favourbrook Frock coat and waistcoat. A striking contrast to the Morning Coat and, I decide, a must if I'm ever nominated for an Oscar. Most are content with an Hermes tie and a buff db waistcoat. Paddock boots take to the heaviness of a striped trouser whose pockets are big enough for a stolen champers bottle.

Around midnight I stumble out the marquee into the dark and watch massive old trees sway in a breeze. I sit down on the grass, light a cigar and listen as the strange accents I hear all have names I know.