06 December 2010

Trad Rules & General Ising

Neiman Marcus Christmas Catalog - 1972

Neiman Marcus turtleneck - 1995

Useless -

Just say no
Not even for blow

"No pocket square with turtlenecks." Gen. Ising

I don't like suits with out ties...too much. I think, with tan gabardine or poplin, you can get away with it in Summer. Just. Otherwise, you're gonna look like President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad.

I don't like pocket squares...too much. Here my 'Dick Cavett Jacket' loses its understated charm thanks to an overpriced piece of silk. In fact, no pocket square with turtlenecks is my rule. And Trad rule's rule.

This black cashmere turtleneck was a Christmas gift 15 or so years ago and it's still going strong. Elegant and 'at home' in the '70s, the turtleneck seemed a natural with men's blow dried hair, longer sideburns and driving gloves.

Of course I'm General Ising. And I am an army man.


Alice Olive said...

What about with a V-neck? I recently saw a dapper young gentleman sporting a tartin (I think) sportscoat, v-neck sweater (or jumper as an Australian would say) and a pocket square. Have to say I thought he looked damn good.

Main Line Sportsman said...

No jackets with shooting patches...unless you are actively engaged in shooting!
I concur on the pocket square prohibition with T-necks

Hilton said...

That is a magnificent plaid sport coat, sir. Where did you obtain it?

Did you notice my question regarding J. Press Oxford with the flap pocket?

Happy Holidays.

David V said...

Pocket squares belong everywhere.
It's MY rule.

tintin said...

Alice- He's in the clear. V neck with pocket square is fair. Gen. Ising

Main Line- Unless you're shooting people. Gen Ising

Hilton- Brooks Bros outlet in Orlando, FL four years ago for $99. I'll sell it to you for $200.

Yes, I like the flap. People who don't like the flap are evil and mean and never pay their share of a bar tab. Gen Ising

tintin said...

David V - I outrank you. Sorry. Gen Ising

Alice Olive said...

Oh, good lord, I misspelt tartin. Got mixed up between cooking ingredients and accessories (which are essential ingredients in an overall look).

Brummagem Joe said...

Pocket squares are a moveable feast, it all depends on whether the overall look is over ornamented or not and that's a judgement that can only be be made when you look in the mirror. With a grey or blue suit it's hard to beat the white linen hankerchief in a simple fold. The shrubberies should be used selectively with sport coats when worn with ties. Blazers never. And the only pocket square that's ever going to work with that jacket tintin is a solid or tiny pattern.


The jacket is head n shoulders above the pocket square(s) and t'neck. Outclassed. Speaking of... wanna bet on that Army/Navy game this weekend, Army Man?

Anonymous said...

On this note of tieless dressing_ help me out, what the hell do i do witha blue blazer, double breasted one, brass buttons etc..I love it on the hanger, but everytime I put it on I seem..overdressed, too sea captain?? any thoughts? Casula with jeans? -the great zamboni

tintin said...

Alice - I thought that was a pun. Gen Ising

Joe- One man's over - ornamentation is another man's aluminum xmas tree. Gen Ising

Stew- You mean the West Point - Annapolis game? Army Navy is a store where you can buy tube socks and ruck sacs. Gen Ising

Anon- Wear it at Halloween with a white turtleneck and complain about the 'halon supression system' in the 'broadcast booth.'

Sorry, carried away there...I know what you mean. I don't wear mine much outside London. Try very dark grey trous with a double cuff shirt with stripes and no tie. Use silk knots instead of cuff links for a further reduction in Alpha Hotelishness.

DO NOT wear an ascot unless you're over 55 and live in London, Paris, Montreal or you have a Ted Turner moustache.

Jeans can also take a DB blazer down a couple notches. I think white Lee jeans with a pair of desert boots and a plain collar shirt would look smashing.

Dallas said...

zamboni, wear it in your next scotch ad.

ascot rules, believe you meant a john waters mustache.

brum joe, Hemingway titles, extensive knowledge of the leopard...keep on impressing me.

David V said...

Kids now-a-days.

TRVS said...

That first paisley square is a beauty, though. My favorite color combo. The guy in the ad looks like Charles Grodin.

brohammas said...

Tintin you are wrong.
Trutlenecks are best matched with a crew cut and an assault rifle... possibly a watchcap and toothpick.

Anonymous said...

That Neiman's catalog shot looks suspiciously like Robert Wagner (aka Al Mundy) from the era. But please don't do work dressy '70s thing, unless you can absolutely pull it off. Looking like a police detective extra from John Wayne's 1974 "Mc Q" is not my idea of sharp dressing. No one will get it and it just looks...yeesh.

Alfred Hitchcock in any decade works, though. Turtlenecks, too.


Brummagem Joe said...

Anonymous said...
On this note of tieless dressing_ help me out, what the hell do i do witha blue blazer,

As tintin suggests it looks good with dark grey flannels, button cuff shirt (cufflinks of any sort clash with brass buttons imho),light blue shirt, quiet regimental tie (loose tie if you want), and brown suede brogues. Alternatively look at the front cover of Ralph Lauren's house journal. He's wearing one with light grey, flannel trousers, grey polo neck and brown suede brogues. And he looks very good. It also looks good as you suggest with jeans. No pocket squares!

tintin: DO NOT wear an ascot unless you're over 55

...do not wear an ascot...period.

Dallas said...
keep on impressing me.

I have a considerable appetite for martinis (gin), gin and tonic, and 18 year old Glenmorangie (although tintin thinks my taste in single malts "unsophisticated")

Brummagem Joe said...

-DB: Looking like a police detective extra from John Wayne's 1974 "Mc Q" is not my idea of sharp dressing.

Agree entirely...the seventies was the nadir of men's fashion since the macaronis of the 18th century. I worked in Britain in the seventies and for kicks my wife got a couple of discs of a cop show we used to watch called The Sweeney. The plots had held up surprisingly well but the clothes were hilarious.

tintin said...

Joe- Untrue about the single malt. I said it was novice.

Brummagem Joe said...

"I said it was novice"

The same thing surely in the context of drinking single malts or picking up women. I opened a new bottle of the 18 year old last night and it was pretty good.

Jordan said...

Halon Supression System- Nice, I also got a flash of Ted Knight on Mary Tyler Moore, who either wore DB blazers, or does in my memory... i thank you for the Holloween tip and the ideas, like
the grey trous point, 'specially since I found a pair at Chez G.W.'s (good will) you're in top form again.. -great zamboni