Urban Outfitters & J. Press

Coming Monday. It's not all bad news. It's not all good news either. Stay tuned for a visit to the J Press collection at Urban Outfitters.

Delaware Antiques Show: The Rich Lean

The sign is already collectable

The 47th Delaware Antiques Show opened with a bang of Black Watch tartan last night. Martha Stewart opened the show but her escort stole it dressed head to toe in Black Watch tartan. Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie...everything he was wearing. I assume he was wearing Black Watch boxers but I did miss his shoes.

There seemed to be fewer booths this year while prices finally seemed to reflect everyone being poor or scared. Delaware is a tax free state as well. Something the rich seem to appreciate more than anyone else.

I couldn't help but notice the 'forward tilt' posture and gait of the high net worth. The Golf Foxtrot insists it comes from carrying bags of money. Add amazing food, lots of hooch and loads of fresh crab and you have a magnet for rich people who love old things. I'm half way there. If you're 100% - - the show is open until November 7th.

Bill's 20th Anniversary Cramerton To Benefit The USO

I've sung the praises of Bills Khakis before. The Bullard came in first place at the Blind Khaki Tasting and it's an amazing pant. 10.2 ounces (per yard) of incredible wood plank khaki cloth that makes for a perfect Fall or Winter trouser. Might be a little warm in Spring and Summer though.

Back in late October Bills introduced a special Limited edition Cramerton 9.2 ounce khaki to celebrate their 20th Anniversary. They call it a WWII pant but I recently discovered that WWII khaki was 8.2 ounces. You're getting the same WWII Cramerton cloth but a little heavier.

This Cramerton is softer to the hand than the Bullard. Still, it's a gutsy pant with a beautiful finish. Something anyone who spent time breaking khaki starch in the army would appreciate. That's Cpt. Patterson up there. An old friend who served with the 7th Infantry Division (Light).

Cpt. Patterson's wearing a Model 2 which is trimmer in the rise than the Model 1 but he likes the fit. Model 1 is the baggier of the three plain front models while Model 3 is the more trim. The pleated versions or 'Warsaw Pact Models' will not be discussed here. Maybe some blogger in Estonia would like to run with it.

Some interesting details only the wearer will be in on. The watch pocket is a huge 3" x 4" and each front pocket is 14" deep. I don't think I ever put anything in my army khaki pockets...it messed up the starch. There's an interesting tab on the rear pocket and I'm gonna have to talk to Bill about it. There's also a beautiful raised seam on the outside trouser leg. Nice details invisible to all but the wearer and the khaki-cognoscenti.

Now for the bad news. They're $195 a pair. That's steep for a pair of khakis but look at it this way -- the US Army never issued a khaki this good. Weighing in at 9.2ounces, Uncle Sam never went over 8.2 ounces. And while the army khaki was issued, you sure as heck couldn't call it free. $195 is a small price to pay for the best khaki in the world and you don't have to enlist.

I will tell you that if you do enlist there's an organization you're gonna know Ricky -tick. The USO has been around for 70 years and I remember it well. When you're an E-1 going trough basic training at Ft Jackson you don't do a lot of socializing at the O-Club.

A lot of us made good use of the USO at Jackson and I have fond memories of the volunteers who worked there. Bill Thomas is donating a portion of the proceeds from the sale of this pant to the USO. That's a stand up thing to do for a pair of trousers that could probably stand up by themselves. Details for purchasing a pair and getting a free bucket bag are at Trad Approved.

The bucket bag will hold a six pack of beer and ice... just in case you're wondering what it's for.

Relationships

Lloyd's Council by Snowdon - Met a couple of these guys - They didn't stay in touch

Association of Lloyd's Brokers: Me, H. and Jon - We've kept in touch

Nice letterhead

Geez, I'm guessing that's a 40 Reg I'm wearing. And it's all because of beer. Mostly consumed in a business that operates on relationships. Not that I ever profited from them but, more importantly, I cherish the friendships I've managed to keep. Any money made was pissed away years ago.

I still look to do business with people I like, respect and can laugh with. Actually, the laugh part should come first. I've turned down job offers because I knew the only thing I had in common with the boss was breathing air and drinking water. 'Pick the boss -- not the job.' Good advice given to me many years ago.

I was talking to an old friend last week about The Trad and what I was planning. I worked with him years ago and he was a great mentor and coach. I told him I was surprised by the success of the blog. He said it made perfect sense, "How could you screw it up when you're just being yourself." That beats a commission check.

Dents Peccary Gloves

Where the good stuff is



L to R: Dents Tan Peccary, Brown & Tan Peccary, Black Peccary and Driving Glove - Good for a life

The Ho - Hum: Brown, cordovan and black - Good for a season

A leather reinforcement or 'quirk' improves fit

Cashmere lining does not pull out


Looks good with covert cloth

Peccary doesn't make it any easier to get a cab - Just more fun

Skin color and grain are matched and hand sewn

Measure writing hand at widest point

Unlined Peccary

Like a NYC pre-war apartment door. Like a double breasted Savile Row suit. Like a pair of WWII khakis. Like a '70s Rolex Sub. You know it when you feel it. That physical gravitas that is unknown today. Pick up a pair of Dents Peccary gloves and you immediately notice the heft and the substance followed by the realization that what you're holding is unlike any glove you've ever known.

The Dent Peccary glove lined in cashmere has soul and heart under its weight. And you know there's a damned good chance it will be worn and appreciated long after you've left this world. Peccary is a South American wild hog with a passing resemblance to the Sloths I saw in Panama. It's an ugly looking animal with a nasty disposition. They frequently fight among themselves leaving them with scars on their skin and ultimately...your gloves.

There's a patina to the leather with small holes where hair grew out. Sewn by hand, they are a disappearing luxury from a company in Warminster, England that goes back to 1777. Only two drawbacks. They draw a lot of attention from women. One woman tried to steal a pair of my Peccaries in a bar. Two, they don't come cheap.

Eight Christmases ago, the Foxtrot and I decided to forgo gift frequency for gift severity. We'd give each other only one gift but we'd make that gift special. She gave me Peccary gloves - - although I doubt she knew giving gloves at Christmas is a tradition dating back to medieval times. In the years since I've chased down many a cab and bus to get them back. I still have them.

The rich gold color contrasts well with a covert coat. Any Barbour but especially the Blue Border. A camel Polo coat. A tweed Chrysalis field coat. Even my old army field jacket. And in a world of S,M,L & XL, it makes sense a company that's been around since 1777 offers individual sizes. Gloves are all about the fit. I'm a 9. Just like my shoes. Measure your writing hand across the widest point to determine your size. If you're between - round up. Besides, once a man is north of 35 - he should know his glove size and have a proper pair of gloves.

Visit 'Trad Approved' for the details. Full disclosure: Dents issued me a pair of Peccary gloves for a ten year test after which they will be returned to the factory for a full field report. I hope I don't lose them.

86 to 36...

Sunday

Monday

...degrees. It is time to break out the serious gloves.