Eastland Shoe by Bob Guccione

In loving memory of Bob Guccione

The Yarmouth

Kennebunk

Rangeley

More Rangeley

Penobscot

Camden

Heart breaking...

Little over a month ago I was walking west to the Capsule show in a sleet like rain that was as cold as it was annoying. I thought. Within three or four blocks of the venue I began to see them. Slowly at first and then it was like a Paul Bunyan convention. They were everywhere. Suddenly Manhattan looked like Minocqua, Wisconsin. Either that or there was a pancake house nearby.

I carelessly left my camera in an outside coat pocket and that's why the first picture looks like I shot it through a Bob Guccione stocking. The condensation finally lifted though the pictures don't do any justice to these shoes. Made in Maine by a third generation family owned company, Eastland Shoe is authentic enough to be the real deal.

The Made in Maine Collection is hip enough for Paul Bunyan wannabes and classic enough for old guys and gals. This kind of heritage does not come cheap. You knew that, right? Shoes start at $275 and that hurts. Like a lotta old guys, I live to run prices through the inflation calculator. Back in 19 and 83, when I was in college, that Camp Mocc was $32.75 or $73 bucks today. Even my beloved Ray Ban Aviators sold in the same Summer 1983 L.L. Bean catalog for $29 bucks or $64 today.

What are you gonna do? I search out the best I can find, look for good value and buy what connects to me. Like pornography, it's hard to describe but I always know it when I see it --especially when it's shot through a stocking.

The Boys

There's a sneak preview of Making the Boys this Thursday at the Florsheim Pop Up Shop (109 Mercer) from 6 to 8PM. A documentary about the The Boys in the Band, it's not only a look at the play and film but it's impact (or lack thereof) today. When asked if he knew of, Boys in the the Band, Project Runway's Christian Siriano guessed it involved the Jonas Brothers.



This gay cowboy dressed in all white swishes into a saloon and says to the bartender, "Darling, I'd like a tall glass of cold milk." Bartender says sure. Cowboy looks around and asks, "Say, where is everybody?" Bartender says, "They're out back hanging fags." Cowboy says, "No fucking shit. Gimme a whiskey."

My first fag joke from 9th grade. In the early '90s, my ex-wife worked in a business known for employing gay men. Some were out but many were still in the closet. On our way home from a party I mentioned it was sad they couldn't all be out of the closet. My ex turned to me in surprise, "Really?" she said. Her astonishment short lived when I added, "That way I wouldn't embarrass myself by telling a fag joke."

After the divorce, a good friend who was gay told me he wished his sexuality was a choice. I must have looked confused. "Do you think I'd choose to have my parents disown me? Fear every day I'll lose my job? Fear everyday I could be killed by a mob or from having sex? Do you think I'd choose this life?" And for the first time it all made sense when I said, "As much as I love pussy - you love dick and there's nothing we can do about it." "Exactly!" he said. And then I wondered what my life would be like if I was hated for loving women.

A. Lincoln's Shoes

(Photo courtesy of Johnston & Murphy)

Boots really. Made by J&M for Lincoln and recreated here. Size 14. Largest size of any US President. Lots more fascinating presidential foot lore can be found here where you can see they all tied their shoes just like...

Nik Nik & Yum Yum - Off Post: 1979

(For full effect please play video and read)

Sgt. Nick Penis and I drive his Oldsmobile and a case of three-two beer over to see a couple gals from 4th Psyops who are living in one of those little framed two story apartments off post that come furnished and rents for $350 a month. My date is too tall, too southern, too skinny and too loud...real loud. But that's okay. No one is getting married here. All she talks about is getting stoned in West Germany which is where she was before she re-enlisted for six years and I'm mentally adding, "Too stupid" to my list but that's okay -- like I said -- "No one's getting..."

It's 1979 and Funk is losing a foot hold to Rap but the good stuff is hanging in there. The Fatback Band's Yum, Yum (Gimme Some) kicks off with thumping bass joined by a brittle electric guitar and a chorus with a 'Kool and the Gang' scream. I had no idea then, nor do I today, what the hell they're saying. I catch something about ice cream and cake and a chorus that sounds like, "I need some algorithms" but I'm pretty sure that ain't right.

I got my Nik Nik shirt stuffed into my 30" squared white bell bottoms and Yum Yum is spinning on the synchronised Marantz turntable while "Too Skinny" and I grind away on a white flokati rug and Sgt Nick and his date suck face on a Door Store sofa. I'm starting to sweat so I drink a little faster until "Too Tall" flips a lit joint in her mouth backwards and leans down to give me a shotgun. I was never a fan of pot but getting a shot gun from a stoned girl ranks way up there in my memory chest.

My date starts screaming, "LAGNAF" and Sgt Nick's date breaks away from sucking his tounge, laughs and starts screaming, "LAGNAF!" Sgt Nick and I both look at each other when his date looks at us and laughs even harder until she starts coughing and takes a drag off her Viceroy to make it stop. "Lets All Get Naked And Fuck." says my date. She's not looking "Too Anything" at this point and I say, "What?" just to make sure I heard right. And she says, "LAGNAF means Lets. All. Get. Naked. And. Fuck." She takes a long hit off the joint and crosses her eyes at me.

Rap moves in and Funk moves out. Just like one of those apartments off post. Anything new at this point in 1979 was welcome. The whole Funk thing and Disco is getting tired but in the right place, the right time and the right occassion Funk had (has) its place. Not too hard to track Fatback down. There's Best of collections along with iTunes and you already know it's good. Real good.

Emilio Pucci: S/S 1968

(filched from flickr)

Friggin' Navy. I never saw Pucci on Hay Street.

This is a story about your friend and mine...

Have a good weekend.

Fashion Week: Gant by Michael Bastian F/W 2011

Navy & Red Shaggy wool Shetland ($198), Prince of Wales Sport Coat ($895) and Moleskin DB overcoat with Shawl collar ($895)

Women's turtleneck ($125), Gingham gathered blouse ($178) and headband ($65)

Red quilted coat ($445)

Women's silk shirt dress ($469) with Boucle Blazer ($645)

Olive cargo pant ($275) & blue corduroy jean jacket ($395)

Women's shearling bomber jacket ($1,695)

Headband ($65) and Avenger's winter hat ($85)

Women's turtleneck ($125) and Men's Alpaca sweater ($598)

Price of sunglasses T.B.D.

Sport Jacket ($995), Button Down Popover ($185) and PPO stripe oxford ($175)

(Photos by Alice Olive for The Trad)

I've respected Michael Bastian's aesthetic since I first wrote about his LL Bean camp mocs and tortoise shell here back in November of 2008. That his stuff was so outrageously priced--he admitted he couldn't afford it -- Well, that was pretty damned honest. Even if I were rich, I'd be hard pressed to part with $850 for a pair of Italian (Brunello Cuccinelli) made fatigue pants. They were beautifully made but those fur-sink days are over. And so is the partnership with Bastian and Cuccinelli.

Gant and Michael Bastian teamed up and this is what you'll see come Fall. Make no mistake... it's expensive but it isn't fur-sink expensive. I'm reminded of what a very smart woman told me years ago. People buy two things. Solutions to problems and good feelings. Car tires are solutions. Clothes are about feelings and I've been known to spend a lot on clothes. A whole lot more than on tires.

When Alex Carleton came out with LL Bean Signature last year I was underwhelmed. It seemed all he did was root through old Bean catalogs, narrow the silhouette and crank it out of China. I wanted to ask him about it but requests for an interview were ignored. I was able to join a conference call where my question was ignored but I remember Carleton's strange reference (more than once) to, "LL Bean-like." I didn't understand. If you're not LL Bean then who is?

For me, Signature's lack of authenticity is a good bench mark for what doesn't ring true. Not because 99% of it is made in China but because it was so poorly designed and made. J. Press hopped on that same bandwagon with Urban Outfitters and appears to be duplicating that train wreck with another bizarre joint effort. This time with Dillard's, Cremieux . That's another story.

What do I know about fashion? Bupkis. But I know quality and while I'm not a fan of everything up there...I'd say there's humor, wit, color, unique fabric and that twist on traditional that LL Bean Signature was shooting for but missed. I know what it's like to miss. That's why I asked Alice Olive to shoot the presentation for me. She's one helluva good shot.

The Maroon Blazer "Front!"

(Photo filched from Flickr)

A reader asked how I felt about the maroon blazer.

Early on in my sales career I had a manager who smoked, chewed gum and talked at 140 mph. All at the same time. Will was rail thin with coke bottle glasses and curly hair wound as tight as his disposition during a sales call. I didn't think he could sell a golf ball in a pro shop but success was built on his mantra, "If you don't ask for the order at least three times you'll never be successful." He didn't sell as much as he just wore you down.

One day he wore a full length fur coat and asked everyone, "This doesn't make me look gay does it?" And one day he wore a polyester maroon blazer. I assume it was polyester because I don't think a wool maroon blazer has ever been made. Will stood at my cubicle (which I was planning to line in a Pierre Deux toile) when another employee walked by and chimed, "Ding, ding...Front!"

Remember, you really don't need a name tag to look like you work behind a hotel desk. The maroon blazer can do it for you.

Lunch With Michael Bastian

Lunch & Elmo, 210 11th Avenue

New Digs

Michael

Eugenia

Antonio

Michael & Antonio

Eugenia & Michael

Antonio & Michael work on 2012

Stoneware

University Stripe

Trad Date Time Group 0802 - 2011 1355 Local

1x Large Pepperoni Pizza
2x Diet Cokes
1x Tea
1x Coke
1x Salad
1x Soup

Bastian's new digs are bathed in bright light that's MIA in midtown. Traditional and simple although I wouldn't want to dust. But, like a hard to wear hat for most of us, Bastian's 11th Avenue digs suit him down to the ground. It's spare without a lot of crap...which is a lot like Bastian.

700 For Dinner - Les Halles

Hip is defined by 20-somethings taking up space in a hotel bar where no one can afford to drink much less stay. Usually in a part of NYC no one wants to be. Above the din I catch snippets of conversation like trout..."Dude, what's with the Red Wings and flannel shirt? Lumberjack is so dead." "But it's Mark McNairy?!" "Last year. He's moved onto 8th grade metal shop teacher." "Damn! No one told me."

A few blocks east on Park Avenue South (bet. 28th & 29th) Les Halles is a throw back to another time where patrons are defined by gray hair, reading glasses and safe driver insurance rates. Les Halles is one of those restaurants where all stress and angst slide off your back like a creme caramel. Is it the best food in NYC? No. But as I look around I'm struck by who is here. And they are me.

I ask about the 50 wines for 50% off on 50 Mondays and I'm told Valentine's Day ain't one of those Mondays. Just as well. They have 700 reservations for tonight. And that's okay. I'll be far away. But I do have plans to go next Monday when Les Halles turns back into what I love. An old friend.

Last Days of Disco Soundtrack

The way I look at it -- it's a tape player that comes with a car. Have a great weekend. Click here for the Love Train.

What's With These Sweaters?

What I was hoping for...


At the half off sale.


What was there.


"NOT HOT!"

$750 for the painting -- don't know about the shoes.


I have no idea what this is.




From a reader:
I have no idea what kind of tintin thing you've got going as far as personal stuff, but there was a nice tintin wool crew neck sweater today at the arthritis thrift shop on Third Ave., half price I think.

I checked out the place yesterday at lunch. Already have this Tintin sweater. I'm hoping they have that Tintin Single Malt sweater...for $30. I spent almost two hours in this place looking and no Tintin sweater. Instead, I find a Coogi sweater. I can't stand Coogi sweaters.

Mel Brooks and Bill Cosby wear them and I think they're both amazing but I'm here to tell you...Coogi sweaters are not only ugly ... They speak to a larger problem. The following that is fat men in Chinese restaurants on Sunday night ordering loudly,"NOT HOT!" and, "JUST WATER TO DRINK."

If you're in the hood (3rd Ave bet. 80 and 81st) you may wanna swing by. 50% off all clothing and shoes and purse stuff. Ties are $5. Found a Britches of Georgetown tie I bought more for the label. Such an icon of '80s Washington DC. There's a couple of small Souleiado shirts for $7.50 and a custom blue chalk stripe Domenico Spano suit with a hole in the seat. Like I said, if you're in the hood and you don't like your Chinese spicy.