13 February 2013

Black Fleece: Fall / Winter 2013


















At least they invited me back.  Which is more than I can say for some folks.  Despite my criticism of Thom Browne, Black Fleece continues to improve each season.  Strong classic looks and color, some reminding me of Regency period dress (1820) while evening wear has a late 19th century echo of lace and somber mourning. I mean that in a good sense.

I hear industry types belly ache about "great cut but lousy fabric."  Not here.  Amazing goods and I'm dying to know where they were sourced.  Lots of  blended cashmere for women and done, judging by the feel, at significant cost.  Which brings up price, which hasn't been released, but that's the drill during Fashion Week. 

There were rumors about BB terminating Black Fleece two or three years ago.  This was during the rampant Zoot Suit period Browne went through.  Last year there was a noticeable retreat from the craziness.  Whatever could be put together to spell the end of the world -- could stand as a single respectable piece -- like a jacket, trouser or tie.  I just wish they'd gone with a shawl lapel on that dinner jacket. 

8 comments:

Andrew Touchstone said...

Yes...shawl collar on that dinner jacket would be perfect. I am surprised it was not cut that way. Nevertheless, that item is coveted from this camp...

Anonymous said...

Now we're talking serious clothing with drape. But not so much that it loses the body's silhouette. And not at all like the current clingy and crumpled fashion-boy, short length suits as exemplified by Daniel Craig in Skyfall. Which, for some silly reason, the press keeps fawning all over. It's impossible to look insouciant and relaxed in Craig's suit. Maybe that's the point.

-DB

Anonymous said...

Black Fleece or grad school? Hmmmm.....ME

Anonymous said...

Now THESE look gorgeous! The short pants suit is a little over the top, but I love the overall collection! Beautiful! DMW

Alice Olive said...

Oh, goodness. I have to get back to Black Fleece. My BF tuxedo is still a favourite.

jeff said...

That herringbone tweed suit with the patch pockets looks about right. Are those leather buttons? How was the cut on the trousers? Pleats? Thank you for the update.

Jeff

Brummagem Joe said...

I'm a dedicated pattern mixer but some of these give you eyestrain. But then who takes this seriously as menswear, surely the entire Thom Browne Black Fleece gambit is a PR activity by BB to garner popular attention although its resonance with the typical BB habitue is hard to see. It's a marketing expense. Nothing wrong with that if it works.

Julia said...

Love the women's black lace jacket with the scarlet peeking out - Pret-ty, especially the buttons. The skirt gives off an academic regalia/cheerleader vibe. I'd prefer a muted plaid pencil, but I was not consulted.