My 15 minutes of fame came sometime in 1982 when this story ran in my college newspaper. I admired the surfers in college and was struck by the individual spirit of surfing. My father had told me team players were assholes. It stuck. There was nothing about team here.
The morning I was introduced to surfing I wore those Royal Stewart trunks. The next time I went on 'Dawn Patrol' I brought a thermos of Bloody Marys. It seemed to make up for my trunks. I didn't stick with surfing. The nipple pain.
Hugh Shaw (on the right in the Poster pic) was killed in an auto accident the following year. Tall and quiet, he had a Gary Cooper quality. And he loved long boards.