Charlie Davidson tells me the Andover Shop is the perfect store. You'd be wrong as sin to disagree. If you're a young man with good taste and a passion for clothes -- Charlie has a job for you. I volunteered but Charlie said I was too old. My attorney, Aaron Schtzenberger is proceeding with an age discrimination suit but I suspect we'll be able to settle.
I need a couple pair of khakis. There's a pile of 'em in the back of the store where Larry usually holds court and dryly informs customers the shop is not for sale. I might see Larry laugh someday but I'm not holding my breath. Bespectacled in tortoise shell, Larry has worked at Andover for...
Me: How long has Larry been here?
Charlie: Shit, I don't know. How long have you been here, Larry?
Larry: No idea.
Tumbleweeds bounce behind Larry's words. I'm bored thinking about khakis and look up behind a cash register covered in books, retail ephemera, shipping boxes and clothes. It gives an unsuspecting customer the idea money is not taken here. High on a shelf, next to a model of a B-24 Charlie crewed in WWII, are bolts of Marimekko selected for Bud Collins.
The Gig? Are you 24 or 25? Maybe you're a college drop out with a prep school diploma and clothes mad. If you are, do you have any idea how much I hate you?
I point to the bolts of Marimekko over the cash register.
Me: Charlie, any of that for sale?
Charlie: Yeah, don't believe that Flusser crap about this place being a museum.
Me: What are you getting for custom?
Charlie: I don't know. Larry, what do we charge for a cotton custom pant?
Larry: Two fifty.
Charlie: $250.
Me: Make me a pair. Outta this (I reach for the most obnoxious fabric).
Charlie: You sure? I have some others.
Me: I'm sure. This is perfect.
Charlie: Belt loops?
Me: No, side tabs.
Charlie: Good idea. You'd never find a belt. Button Fly?
Me: Perfect.
Charlie: Tab Closure...
Me: Sure.
Charlie: One back pocket.
Me: No, Charlie. That's a little...
Charlie: 20 years ago. Not anymore.
Me: You sure?
Charlie: Trust me.
Me: The selvedge is beautiful. Seems a shame to waste it.
Charlie: What do you wanna do?
Me: Can you make side tabs out of of it?
Charlie: Sure I can (Charlie runs a hand across the fabric). You know...
Me: What?
Charlie: I was thinking...Why don't we run the selvedge down the out seam?
Me: Holy shit.
Charlie: I think there's enough.
Me: Ho-ly shit.
Charlie (Measures) Yep. There's enough.
Me: That would be... hysterical.
Charlie: It would.
Me: You don't think it's too much?
Charlie: Hell, I don't think it's ever been done. You'd be the first.
Me: You don't think it's too...? You know? Label obsessed?Charlie: It would be if everyone did it -- but no one's doing this...
Me: I'll be damned. Lets do it.
Charlie measures and Larry writes it all down.
Larry: How wide of a leg opening?
Charlie: Nine inches. No, wait. John, what size shoe do you wear?
Me: Nine.
Charlie: Make it eight and three quarters.
Charlie: Cuffs?
Me: I dunno.
Charlie: You gotta have cuffs.
Me: They're for the beach. Sand'll get in 'em.
Charlie: We'll make 'em narrow.
Me: Inch and a half?
Charlie: Inch and three eighths.
Me: Done.
Me: How long, Charlie?
Charlie: Couple weeks.
Think you can handle all that? It's a chance to work for the very best. Early to mid-twenties. Full time job. The center of the menswear universe. Call the shop in Cambridge for more information. Ask to speak to Larry. He'll be your first test. (617) 876-4900
Gorgeous. Absolutely gorgeous. Good motivation to lose a few lbs so I can wear pant with side tabs. I find a gut tends to catuse the waistband to collapse under the strain a bit :-P
ReplyDeleteWell played, JT.
BMO'C
Dude! So fresh! Definitely post some full length shots of you wearing the pants when you can.
ReplyDeleteGotta say, those are awesome! I mean, what else can be said??
ReplyDeleteJesus H. Christ.
ReplyDeleteYou're such a bad ass.
ReplyDeleteI'm tweeting the crap out of this post.
ADG is iridescently, veridianly, radiantly, Soylent Green with envy over these leg coverings.
ReplyDeleteTintin plus Marimekko (of which I know you to have long been interested - I'm talking decades here) equals a match made in summer sartorial heaven. That selvedge seam just slays me. What a cool idea.
ReplyDelete-DB
I have curtains from that fabric :D
ReplyDeleteI love The Andover Shop. I've only had the chance to go there once and dropped almost a grand on a couple of things I didn't really need. I'd heard some intimidating things about Charlie and Larry, but I found them both vey friendly and talkative and Larry's sense of humor is clearly as dry as mouthful of crackers... I'm trying to wangle another business meeting in Boston this year just for the sole purpose of going back.
ReplyDeleteI'm the oldest 25 year old you know.
ReplyDeletebuttercup, did this have a point??
ReplyDeleteThe GTH is not my very favorite thing in the world, but anything and everything must be forgiven when it's Andover. I think I would have preferred two back pockets... would love to know more why only one. The outseam business is nothing short of brilliant, not label obsessed at all, just an honest pedigree. I expect to see it copied very, very soon.
ReplyDeleteJust as I was beginning to be grateful for my relative maturity, this post made me regret not being 22 again.
uglier then shit. hope this is a joke post.
ReplyDeleteShit. Being a Finn, I could never pull those off. I mean, Unikko is the most generic choice for curtains or fat old lady dress here. However, in non-Finn surroundings those may be a great GTH solution.
ReplyDeleteDamn. They bang my mind the wrong way, although I know it might work abroad.
Definitely a some kind of defintion of GTH.
The Finns are a strange bunch - not bad mind you, but strange. I suppose if you have to indulge your Suomiphilia (is that even a word?) then its best you start buying Marimekko products instead of those from Tom of Finland.
ReplyDeleteNow go to one of those trad forums and start a fight about pattern matching.
ReplyDeleteAmazing. A towering feat of bravura. I would wear those babies with a white shirt and a navy linen blazer into the lobby of the Four Seasons in Palm Beach [one of my all time faves] when I check in and they would fall at my feet. Other than that smoking jacket I covet your best purchase EVER.
ReplyDeleteML
mlanesepic.blogspot.com
You have departed the realm of GTH and entered the land of WTF with the trousers.
ReplyDeleteMention Bud Collins and The Andover Shop and I'm hooked.
ReplyDeleteSo they don't want a 25-(ish) young (old) lady in their employ? That's Sex Discrimination...would hate the commute anyway.
ReplyDeleteI'd like a skirt out of that fabric if there's any left over. Love it.
WTF? Perhaps. Limited to certain venues? Probably. My style? No. But there's one thing: For some reason I just keep coming back to see the photos in this post again and again.
ReplyDeleteIt's that intriguing.
-DB
I understand Charlie's pedigree but that doesn't mean that his opinion is infallible. The exposed branded selvedge is as vulgar and tasteless as your post outing FYMW.
ReplyDeleteWait 'til ADG2 sees those. He's gonna want a pair. Shut up.
ReplyDeleteWhat I want from Andover are the long tie, bow tie and cummerbund they had in the catalog once. Black with old gold skulls. Fraternity mascot, fraternity colors. I should have bought the damned things when I had the chance.
ReplyDeletereally glad you included the dialogue in here. This could have just been a post about a badass pair of pants you created. Instead, it becomes a lesson of sorts.
ReplyDeleteFor instance, finally, I gained some insight into the very real purpose of side tabs.
Keep up the good work!
Don't wear those pants to lunch. I have 25 yards of vintage Marimekko my mother bought for curtains. Teal. I await your offer.
ReplyDeletePlease re-run that post you ran a couple of years ago which was a couple of pictures of you with that cute girl - you mentioned that you had a thing for girls with pretty hands and short hair. I loved those photos - will you please?
ReplyDeleteMen in Texas would never wear pants that loud, which is probably why I like them so much.
ReplyDeleteDon't forget Steve. A real gentleman.
ReplyDeleteBrave One - These hurt my ears, but with a little more royal blue they would be perfect for a Gator tailgate. I can only imagine the wonderful time the 22-year-old who could pull these off would have that day! (Or you could have that day!)
ReplyDeleteMagnificent trousers! I purchased a length of vintage Escalera batik fabric and had it fashioned into a sportcoat for my husband. Our tailor ran the Escalera signature selvedge right down the placket as the amount of fabric was scant and it was too beautiful to waste. I am inspired to find more fabric thanks to you!
ReplyDeleteI will be spending next summer in East Hampton with a plethora of GTH trousers.
ReplyDeleteHa ha Mainline...
ReplyDeleteI love 'em.
More importantly is ANH single?
ReplyDeleteOK. At first glance, I thought of Bud Collins and decided you were too young to sport this garment... second, the whole selvage issue threw me.
ReplyDeleteI hope you are being compensated for this endorsement. ME
Have you tried to find just good old regular khakis with sidetabs? Impossible to find...perhaps I need to make a special trip to Andover to order some custom made khakis...
ReplyDeleteME- In full disclosure, no, I was not compensated and I paid the full cost for the trouser. I also bought Charlie lunch. Reminds me of dating you in college. I was broke but insisted on paying.
ReplyDeleteHa! Single indeed, Mr. Anon.
ReplyDeleteDid you have them cut large between the legs? It takes big balls to wear those. Outstanding, sir.
ReplyDeletegot any idea how much i hate you right now Trad...
ReplyDeletelucky s.o.b.
zamb
What you truly desire may require a sacrifice. How about lunch? ME
ReplyDeleteMarimekko + side tabs= pretty damn great.
ReplyDeleteAnon- Cute girl with short hair and nice hands:
ReplyDeletehttp://thetrad.blogspot.com/2009/08/white-suit-1980.html
Can we see some far-away photos?
ReplyDeleteWell done, you!
ReplyDelete