I asked Graham Marsh and JP Gaul if they wouldn't mind taking the Trad Quiz. I've used this test a couple times while tailoring it to the individual subject. Mr. Gaul took the test over the phone and did not cheat. Mr. Marsh replied to the questions from an email. I don't know if he cheated or not but he did cop out a couple times by picking both answers.
Surcingle or Strap: GM-Surcingle / JPG-Strap
Answer: Strap. Understated and elegant with Tiffany buckle options.
Giuffre or Mulligan: GM- Both / JPG- MulliganAnswer: Giuffre. In the movie, Jazz on a Summer's Day, Jimmy Giuffre and his band wear Trad tan suits. Gerry Mulligan wears a red blazer that wouldn't look out of place behind a hotel front desk. "Ding, ding...Front!"
Old England or Hackett: GM- Old England / JPG- Old EnglandAnswer: Old England. 99.9% of the Yanks reading this don't know what Old England is much less where.
Vespa or Lambretta: GM- Vespa / JPG- Vespa
Jamal or Davis: GM- Miles Davis / JPG- Miles Davis
Vespa or Lambretta: GM- Vespa / JPG- VespaAnswer: Lambretta. Both scooters are unreliable but look cool. Like most Italians. But Vespa is everywhere in the states so the nod goes to the rarely seen Lambretta.
Jamal or Davis: GM- Miles Davis / JPG- Miles DavisAnswer: Ahmad Jamal. Miles Davis was greatly influenced by Ahmad Jamal. Once you've listened to Poinciana you'll understand why.
Pea or Duffle: GM- Pea / JPG- Duffle
Pea or Duffle: GM- Pea / JPG- DuffleAnswer- Duffle. The Pea does not cover your ass nor is it warm. And if you've ever been to Norfolk, VA you know the other reasons.
Press or Brooks- GM- Brooks / JPG- Press
Press or Brooks- GM- Brooks / JPG- PressAnswer: Neither. Trick question. The answer is the Andover Shop.
Tassel or Weejun: GM- Weejun / JPG- Weejun
Tassel or Weejun: GM- Weejun / JPG- WeejunAnswer: Weejun. Because I am one.
Bean or Orvis: GM- Bean / JPG- Orvis
Esquire or GQ: GM- Both / JPG- Esquire
Auto or Stick: GM- Stick / JPG- Stick
Bean or Orvis: GM- Bean / JPG- OrvisAnswer: Orvis. Bean is pursuing the skinny hipster. Orvis continues to keep the fat, middle aged man in mind. Where's Bean gonna be when hipsters move onto Nik Nik?
Esquire or GQ: GM- Both / JPG- EsquireAnswer: Esquire. I didn't see anything from GQ in this book but there's a lot from Esquire. Again, Mr. Marsh picks both but this time he gets a pass. He has a book to sell.
Auto or Stick: GM- Stick / JPG- StickAnswer: Stick. I shouldn't have to tell you why.
Great posts!
ReplyDeleteThanks!
The lesson for me in this test is don't mess with The Trad, he'll eff you up!
ReplyDeleteI thrifted a mini blue gingham BD a few weeks ago and was unwittingly pairing it with a herringbone jacket. Little did I know I was setting myself up for murdah.
I the Hickey Freeman Flight Coat label has to be one of my faves from the period. Love the aircraft. I have one in navy cashmere.
I first went to the Andover shop in Cambridge in '87 when I was a mere lad of 20. I knew I was in exactly the right place because the procedure for actually purchasing something was not at all obvious !
Great quiz! Poinciana indeed...
ReplyDeleteLove the blog. Thanks for taking the time to make it interesting.
JTS
This looks like a great book. Thanks for the well done posting and pics.
ReplyDeleteAppreciate the deep scholarship. Well done. There are a few of us gals who dress guy trad, it just works, guy sizes and all. I snipped all the locker loops off, I hate them. Was the Tradewinds up and running when you were there? Ever hear of Gamble Rogers, he was such a draw to those of us born and raised just north at J-action-ville.
ReplyDeleteThe question should have been: Penny or Tassel?
ReplyDeleteBoth styles were marketed as "Weejuns" by Bass.
I've been involved with advertising and design for 25 years and I simply never get tired of ads from that influential ten year period of the mid '50s to the mid '60s. Glad you don't either. Thanks for posting.
ReplyDelete-DB