Friday Belts - A Knotty Lemoncillo

Giori Lemoncillo & D Ring Belt

The D Ring at the Vesper Boat Club 1985

Nice glove

Shortly after Mario Batali opened Babbo -- a client who knew Mario scored a reservation. I remember being blown away by the beef cheek ravioli, suckling pig and an obscure red wine from Umbria. We wound up closing the restaurant and on our way out we saw Mario at the bar having a Lemoncillo and a cigarette. I was in a hurry to light up a La Gloria Cubana Wavell (back when they were still made in Miami) and while the client and his wife chatted with Mario I headed outside, took a seat on a fire plug and fired up -- clueless as to who Mario was other than a guy who nailed my corporate Amex for $600. I do remember wishing I had something to drink with that cigar and a cold Lemoncillo would've hit the spot.

I've had all kinds of Lemoncillo (and Limoncello). Homemade and store bought. And like Danny DeVito - - I've had too many. This stuff will give you one of nastiest hangovers you'll ever experience due to the large amount of sugar in it. Alain Sitbon of the charming, Le Petit Paris in Chicago, was the first to serve me Lemoncillo over crushed ice. A wonderful after dinner drink for the Summer.

The D Ring belt is a cheap way to hold up your trousers. A nautical look that fits right in at the Vesper Boat Club on Boathouse Row in Philadelphia. I don't wear it much anymore (I don't drink Lemoncillo much anymore). They seem to be everywhere or their poor imitation -- the Ribbon Belt which, like the word, "awesome" I detest. Which reminds me of my last visit to Babbo where the Golf Foxtrot and I had a mediocre dinner at the bar, were charged twice for a bottle of wine and had to endure Mario's Ipod -- a collection of some of the most God awful music I've ever heard. Not as good as it was -- Better than it will be.

Seabago Tassel Loafers & Hay Street

Seabago Tassels on the home stretch

Hay Street Slave Market

Those Seabagos were made in the USA and found new on Ebay for $40. I'm sure there's something wrong with them but haven't discovered what yet. They look dusty because I poured baby powder in them...a requirement for wearing leather shoes without socks.

Stopped in Fayetteville, NC and swung by the local newspaper for some archival photographs of the old Hay Street circa my time as a young paratrooper there in late 1970's and early 1980's . I called a number of museums and libraries looking for photographs of the infamous street. No one had anything. I was told at the paper many locals would just as soon forget the old Hay Street of hookers, strip clubs and pawn shots. The 400 and 500 blocks were razed by the mid 1980's and not a pole was left. It would appear the slave market isn't an issue.

On The Road...

Apologies for the lack of posts and answers to questions and comments. The road trip will end soon.

Take Ivy

David Colman of the NY Times mentioned The Trad in yesterdays paper. Since I've done a horrible job of lay out with this blog - - so bad that I have a hard time finding old posts - - I thought it would help to post the Take Ivy images again.

Take Ivy I

Take Ivy II

Take Ivy III

The Friday Belt - Cava & Crew

Spanish Cava & J Crew

A Cava Clue

Here's the deal. I'm on the road. Who knows where I'll be by the time you read this -- but it is not gonna be around the Gulf Foxtrot-- which is a good thing. She'd knock the crap outta me if she could reach me. A week ago I heard about this Cava or sparkler that was getting some amazing word of mouth in the city. With the current economy, everyone's looking for a good deal. I've been looking for a good deal since I could walk.

So I'd like to push the people who've been living like drunken sailors aside and show 'em how a pro does it. The first thing you do when you find a sparkling rose for $16.00 that taste like a $80 Billecart Salmon Rose ...is to keep your mouth shut. But I can't help myself --Which is why, when the Gulf Foxtrot reads this, she's gonna go ballistic. We have a stock pile but I don't how long it's gonna last. And that's why I can't tell you what it is but I can give you some clues in that picture up there. Lets see how good and thirsty you are.

The belt is a J. Crew needlepoint with golf flags. I like to think it's nautical but the Crew description was golf flags. My cousin was a Hilton Head golf pro and I wanted to be just like him. I started golf lessons when I was 12. I used rentals until my dad came home with brand new Sam Snead junior clubs. 3,5,7 and 9 irons plus a putter and a wood. No bag. Dad said I didn't need one with so few clubs. I played golf carrying the clubs --three in each hand. This caused some conversation on the course which appears to have found its way back to Dad. A 36 club shaft saver bag in red and black was purchased the next day. I never had a lot of club when I was 12 but I did have a lot of bag.

Basque Burger Paradise

Lunch at Txikito

El Doble

Basque Blistered Piperrak Peppers

Txakolina Rose - - Beats the crap outta diet Coke

Buried in a shopping strip way the hell over on Chelsea's west side on 9th Avenue between 24th and 25th is a Basque restaurant paneled in what looks like old shipping pallets. It also serves the best hamburger I've ever had in my entire life. A client, friend, foodie and New Yorker of almost 30 years took me to Txikito but he never told me the name. Just say 'Chiquita' like the banana and you're close enough.

A lot of critical nit picking has been written about the decor but I like it. It has a garage like front door that's opens the whole place to the street making it very casual. I ordered El Doble and asked for it rare. The waitress told me it was really up to the chef how it was cooked. Shades of the airport burger, "We can only cook them medium well" came to mind but I didn't make a scene. My client ordered the piperrak peppers as a starter and a bottle of Rioja or Priorat - - I can't remember but it was a nice Spanish red.

The peppers are salted and fried and go fast like anything fried with salt usually does. They're addictive and while I was yacking on about how good they were -- El Doble was put in front in front of me. Cheese oozzed out over two double patties tucked into a Tom Cat bakery bun. Very easy to handle... I took a big bite and came in my pants.

The details: The burgers are 20% fat. I actually have my hamburger ground 75/25 but the 80/20 works well. A big mistake with burgers is using very lean meat. You need the fat to cook the burger and fat, as well all know, tastes good. The cheese is Idiazabal. A beautiful sheep's milk cheese that's smokey goodness. The sauce is creme fraiche and a homemade mayo and the whole production is covered in cornichons and pickled onions.

It's familiar and it's unlike anything I've ever had before. The formula was so mind blowing I couldn't stop thinking about it and went back alone for a late lunch. Otra vez for the peppers and the burger but instead of red I had a glass of the chilled rose that I can't pronounce but that was so good I had two. The place gets some ribbing about being expensive but lunch is a square deal. $11 for the best burger I ever had. Perfection has never come so cheap.

The Cacafuego

The Cacafuego

Far Left - The guy who named the boat. Far Right - The guy who owned the boat.

Cacafuego was mentioned in a comment by 'D' on the prior Duende / Cursi post. I don't know who 'D' is but they must have known me when I lived on a boat my senior year of college.

The runner posing with Cacafuego is a park ranger I worked with at the Castillo de San Marcos and a couple years later at Valley Forge. John was hittin' 12 on the koo-koo meter -- like most obsessed runners. One afternoon at Valley Forge we were both working in George Washington's headquarters when about 30 Daughter's of the American Revolution came calling. One woman asked John the origin of his name. "Hungarian." John replied proudly. The DAR lady, who must'a weighed in about what I weigh now, breathed in an air-of-superiority snort and asked John, "Any of your ancestors in the revolution?" "Sure." said John. "Hungary 1956. Where were you?"

That's an authentic bleeding madras shirt I'm wearing. Found in a men's clothing store on the main street of town just behind my college. It was old stock from the mid 1960's and the elderly Jewish lady who owned the shop put up with a lot from me. I would always dig around (looking for old stock) and she would complain, "Here comes Mr Hot Shot who's gonna tear up my store again. " There were instructions with the shirt about how to wash it in cold salt water to keep it from bleeding. I loved that shirt and the memories of her shop.

The story of the Cacafuego or literally translated, Shitfire, goes back to Sir Francis Drake. My story does not jive with a lot of what's out there but this is how the boat got its name. Right or wrong. Deunde or Cursi.

The Spanish disarmed galleons on the Pacific side so the ships could carry more cargo primarily because the British had not discovered the staight of Magellan yet. Or so the Spanish thought. Drake was the first English pirate to figure out the route and one afternoon, whilst on the Pacific side, he saw through his scope a big Spanish ship with no guns but loaded with gold and silver and named Cacafuego. As Drake approached the ship, he saw an uncial under the second c which changed it to 'z' and Cacafuego became Cazafuego which translates to "Huntfire" or "We're looking for the shit."

Since the Spanish assumed Drake was a Spanish ship, he being on the Pacific side and all, the Cazafuefo was pretty easy pickins for the English pirate and he memorialized the encounter in his diary. Which is where I got the idea to name the boat the guy on the right owned. Actually, his dad owned the boat and I paid rent to live on it.

It was a Danish boat built by Coronet. I think it was 33 feet long. Living on a boat, even a stink pot, in a city marina is a great experience. The neighbors were always generous with beer, dinner and offers of going out on their boats. One neighbor even offered me his wife, a Playboy Playmate from the 1960's - - About the year my madras shirt was made. Being from L.A., they were, what you might call, a pretty fast couple. I said I was flattered and politely declined but must admit to searching out her issue soon afterwards. Like many events passed on in my life when young -- I thought I'd have another shot with a Playmate. I like to think I was optimistic... and very dumb.

Duende vs Cursi

Duende

Cursi

I have a thing for Spanish words...

I worked as a park ranger at the Castillo de San Marcos in St Augustine, FL. Spanish colonialism was a real eye opener. Did you know three generations of Spanish were living in St Augustine when the first pilgrim set foot on Plymouth Rock? Amazing. One day I met a middle aged man and his wife who were from Barcelona. He was fair, blond and blue eyed and told me he played bag pipes in high school. His point being northern Spain was very different from southern Spain and I picked up that he was darned proud of that distinction.

His wife walked over to the east wall of the fort and looked over the Matanzas Bay while her husband continued his history lesson. Just then a beautiful young woman walked by us in the tightest khaki shorts the 1980's ever saw. The fellow from Spain eyed her as she walked by, blew a low whistle and said, "Que langosta." I looked up at him from the tight shorts and said, "What does a lobster have to do with her?" He smiled and said, "Where's the sweetest meat in a lobster?"

George Frazier was fond of duende. The literal translation has something to do with ghosts or goblins but it's more. It's used to describe that quality that's indescribable about a person or a place. Frazier once wrote, "...style was Joe DiMaggio's drifting back after a fly ball, but duende was DiMaggio's barring Peter Lawford from Marilyn Monroe's funeral." So the next time a young girl walks by in really tight shorts - - No, wait. I meant to say, the next time you're trying to describe something with soul and that "x" factor that's so hard to define -- you now have the perfect word. Duende.

And then there's cursi. I don't think Frazier knew about cursi 'cause if he did -- he'd as sure as hell have used it. Cursi means bad taste but includes, "one who has pretensions of refinement and elegance without possessing them." Man, that says a whole lot for only five letters. Put that on your vanity tags or your Lands' End bag. When I discovered the word cursi...my mind did the equivalent of looking around to make sure no one saw my fly was down. "Am I cursi?" I thought. Why not. I like to think I have better taste than most. But what if I'm wrong? What if I'm...cursi?

Asking that question of myself was like throwing a bucket of cold humility on my head. Who am I to turn my nose up at anything? Duck shoes, cargo shorts, flip fucking flops, Jack-ass-ville, Florida... No, it was time to stop the snooty and cynical eye narrowing at the couple from Lake Forest in the Jeep Wagonner with the Golden Lab who I named, cliche. It's time to focus on duende. Unless, of course, you want to discuss how cursi Peter Lawford was.

Friday Belts - The Fighting 69th

The Fighting 69th Regimental Cocktail - 2 parts champagne to 1 part Midleton

The Fighting 69th Coat of Arms

A Fighting 69th bumper number

"The official regimental cocktail is made of two parts champagne and one part Irish whiskey. According to legend, the regimental commander, Thomas Francis Meagher, liked to drink his whiskey with Vichy water. But one day during the Civil War, when his aide was unable to find Vichy water, he returned with champagne. Meagher liked the new mixture, and the drink stuck."

A cocktail recommended by a reader --- A bumper number found by me-- A National Guard Regiment with an Irish history and whose recent deployment to Iraq saw 19 KIA and 78 WIA during Operation Wolfhound, so named after the Irish Wolfhounds on the crest above. A beautiful armory down on Lexington and 25th. Back in the 1990's an attempt was made to convert the regiment to Air Defense Artillery. That did not go over well with the troops and it stayed infantry. As an 11 Bravo I can understand.

The belt is not all that important. A Black Watch strap from J Press mysteriously on sale for $9.99 at a discount store on 57th St. It's hard to get excited about a device that holds your trousers up next to the storied 69th. Around 17:00 hours (22:00 hours GMT) today I'll toast the regiment and tilt back a Fighting 69th. I hope you join me.

George Frazier

George Frazier's biography by Charles Fountain

Mr Frazier was born 98 years ago today. I just found him yesterday at the Strand bookstore.

While a columnist at the Boston Herald

"A nasty man, Clancy. Unprincipled and destructive. A road company Joe McCarthy. A man of no visible talent except for evil. A lousy newspaperman. A real five-star son-of-a-bitch...I'd have also liked to call him a prick, but why give that word a bad name."

Harold Clancy about George Frazier

"He constantly referred to George as a prissy writer and after George left his office after a rather unpleasant meeting about his disintegrating deadline discipline, reeking of Faberge or whatever cologne he was partial to at the time, Clancy turned to the others in the room and asked sardonically, 'Just what do we have to do to get that guy to smell like a man?'"

The Matter of Style

"It is my own conviction that there can be no style without a certain aloofness, a certain inaccessibility, an immense honesty and inviolability in the matter of one's craft, a relentless being-true-to-one's-own-image. George Frazier

More of Mr Frazier and his September 1960 Esquire article to come...

Smell Good

The Trad Medicine Cabinet

There's a lot of men out there who think puttin' on some scent is not a manly thing. My father for one. I remember his smell like it was yesterday. The cigarette smoke hit you first followed by a ever so slight fragrance of B.O. filtered through a wash & wear khaki uniform. Shortly after 17:00 hours the juniper from the afternoon's libations mingled with the B.O. and stale smoke creating a multi-layered scent I'll never forget. "I can't seem to forget you...your Windsong stays on my mind."

In short, my Dad stunk. Plain and simple. Fortunately for me... he wasn't all that much of a hugger and fortunately for him... I didn't have the stones to complain. I only have them now because we're thousands of miles apart. I may wear tutti frutti suede shoes but I do smell nice. By the way, my father's father wore Christian Dior Eau Savage. Always. I know. I looked in his medicine cabinet all the time.

Look, I'm not saying you douse yourself in Polo like my old boss did. 200 employees in the Chicago office could smell that guy coming 10 minutes before he got to you. He reminded me of a 13 year old after gym class with a can of Right Guard.

If you're over 30 years old I'm gonna throw some advice your way. Doesn't matter if you listen or not. I used Old Spice in the Army. I'd get outta the shower, dry off, throw Old Spice talc all over me (sadly no longer made) and dab some Old Spice cologne here and there depending on if I was dating or not. Simple and cheap. I was also 20.

If you're over 30 and purchase your cologne at Walgreen's -- pay attention...dude. There's an old saying which goes like this, "Never...No, always buy the best you can afford." I know... I talk a lot about cheap stuff but cologne is something I don't wanna buy at some discount center. Who knows what that crap is. Suck it up and pay retail. And experiment. That's half the fun.

I've used, since I was 15: Canoe, Old Spice, Aramis, Devin, Royal Copenhagen, Eau Savage, Greenbriar, Eau D'Hermes, Vetivier, D.R. Harris Sandlewood, Knize 10, Trueffit & Hill Spanish Leather, Molton Brown something or other and most recently, concentrated Ylang Ylang. What I still use is in the medicine cabinet up there. There's nothing wrong with smelling good. Unless you're on patrol in which case the bad guys can smell you and will kill you. If you're not on patrol-- you may wanna give a grown up cologne some thought.

Antique Road Show

I now know why Elvis shot his TV. He was watching Antique Road Show from North Dakota.

Friday Belts - Cheap Buckles & Beer

The Growler and the Belt

The back of the buckle

There are times when being cheap really pays off. Sterling buckles and cask beer are just two examples. Dinner at a Ft Bragg NCO club and living in a National Park are a couple of others but lets focus on beer and buckles today.

First, the beer. I had heard about Growlers years ago. Didn't pay much attention. Shame on me. I was the "buy a case" kind'a guy. Couple of weeks ago I pulled up a stool at The Pony Bar on 10th Avenue at 45th St. In the sticks but well worth the walk. They had cask beer made by the Chelsea Brewery called, Angel IPA. Not a draft but pulled up from the cask just like a London pub. The beer was not cold and far from warm. Not fizzy but certainly not flat.

It was a Bitter in the truest sense of a Bitter drawn up in Lamb's Tavern in Leadenhall Market next to Lloyd's of London. One of my favorite drinking places in the world. From the first sip I flashed back to the Lamb on a late Friday afternoon where Lloyd's brokers spilled out of the pub and onto the street holding pint glasses and Silk Cut cigarettes while this broker tried to convince an underwriter to insure a vacant factory in Cleveland. Those were the days. And then I looked up and saw the sign for Growlers.

A Growler is a take away bottle of 64 ounces or four pints. As I sip this amazing beer and figure I may stay here all night...the Growler begins to make sense. For a lousy $19.00 -- I can take four pints, me and a brown jug home. Makes sense. Give the Pony a try when next in NYC. The folks there are doing some amazing things with beer and ale and their passion can be your affordable joy.

I'm doing some amazing things with buckles. That's a sterling buckle with the initials, JDJ, in a beautiful diamond monogram. I found it in a consignment shop far from Manhattan. I paid $5.00 for it. Probably what it's worth but I like it. I already have two of my own but it's a kick in the butt to find something with so much soul for so little money. The back of the buckle reads, "Sterling Pat March 30, 1915" and there's the number '8' or is it '9'? Who knows. Who cares...as I pour another pint from the Growler and wonder who in the hell Sterling Pat was.

Trooping the Summer Colour

It's time to lock and load on ties with color...

And why not? Look, if you're reading men's style magazines with their advice about how to dress preppy - - get the hell on outta here. No, wait. Come back. I was just kidding. I need the traffic. Besides, Tater will tell you, "it don't cost nothin" to read this blog and I hope it will give you some sartorial courage this Summer.

Hang it out there and do it in an unbranded way. Do you know how much a Vineyard Vines tie screams ersatz? Trust me. Not a good idea. Try simple reps and bright club ties this season. J Press, Brooks Brothers, Kos, J McLauglin...just a few of my favorites. Social courage my friend...It's a beautiful thing.

For Tater - Dinner & Dessert

I'm missin' home cooking.

The Garment District

A stroll west on 40th Street

I spent some time in the garment district. These are shirting fabric samples. My father is going to disown me.

Friday's Very Rare Belts

Nylon Para Belt & Midleton Irish Whiskey

I don't consider nylon Trad. But bear with me.

I learned how to dress from other men. My cousin, the Hilton Head golf pro was a dapper southerner who was good looking, read Esquire, always drove cool cars and had a lot of girlfriends. He was my God and influenced me greatly in dress. That and I scored a lot of his hand me downs. I am also influenced by the men I see on the street. Not the street in Ft. Wayne Indiana but streets in London, New York, Palm Beach and Washington DC. There's more style and taste in these cities than you'll ever see in men's style magazines. But I never thought I'd be influenced by a Command Sergeant Major from the north west hills of Georgia.

We met a couple of years ago at the urging of his wife. His military career was amazing and if I divulged even a tiny bit--he'd kill me. He wrote a book and had some very good fortune. Movies and television and hanging out with famous actors and directors. But he's managed to stay who he always was. A bright and honorable man who can tell a damn good story. I noticed when we met that he was wearing this belt. I had not seen a belt like it since I got out of the Army. Made from nylon with light weight aluminum hardware, they were a common sight on weekends at Ft Bragg's sport parachute clubs (now gone) like the Green Beret Club, the 82nd Club and the XVIII Airborne Corps club. It's a belt that tells a story. Cops like 'em. Vets like 'em. I like 'em. But what I really like is Midleton Irish Whiskey.

You'll notice on the fist sip that this is something out of the ordinary. Like the Green Beret Sport Parachute Club...the smoothness hits first. The full mouth of what seems like honey comes second. It shares with a good Cuban cigar that rare ability to be powerful and smooth at the same time. Then the finish kicks in and hangs out for what seems like forever. If you like single malts -- you'll be amazed by this stuff. You may also be amazed by the price. At $140 or so it is something special and not to be shared with your 19 year old college nephew. This stuff is for you and perhaps a Sergeant Major you know.

Lunch at Shopsins

Update:

Like a lot of things in life -- Shopsins is, "not as good as it was - - better than it will be." The old 900 item menu is now a one page lunch and one page breakfast menu. The venue is like eating in the bathroom of a rest stop on the New Jersey Turnpike. The Alexander Hamilton stop to be precise. There is no joy here - - only silence interrupted by a battery of "fucks" coming from behind the counter and under the three gray lab darkroom timers suspended from the ceiling. It is a place as nasty as it's owner.

The rest of the market is a joy. Hand made blood sausage for $4.95 a pound. Goat for $3.95 a pound. 10 limes for a dollar. 50 corn tortillas for a dollar. 20 Oz of Achiote Annatto seeds for $2.99 (required for any pibil). And a haircut in the wackiest barber shop for $10. All in all, a very good afternoon in a place where my fellow customers were gracious, the shop owners welcoming and Kenny and crew living up to their reputation.

Kenny Shopsin's half baked theory of being a piece of shit

I'm heading down on the V Train to have lunch at Shopsins...if I don't get thrown out. There's also Aminova's Barber Shop in the same street market. Haircuts for $7 and voted best barber by the Village Voice in 2001. This has all the makings of a fantastic afternoon or a very bad one.

Ft Bragg, NC 1966

Smoke Bomb Hill, Ft Bragg, NC 1966

My father's A Team just before deployment to 5th Group in Vietnam. A story in every man. An odd A Team in that there were 13 men and not the usual 12. Two NCO's and a Lieutenant did not come back.

I remember a party at our quarters on post just before they left. Everyone of these men were crammed into our tiny living room. Wearing starched fatigues, drinking beer and smoking Marlboro's--I wandered among the spit shined Corcoran jump boots while the theme from, "The Magnificent Seven" boomed over a stereo. I looked at our dining room table and saw a pile of forest green berets with the red 7th Group flash sewn on the front. Some worn and some brand new. I'll never forget the smoke and laughter in that living room. Or that I was around something that was very real and they were going somewhere very dangerous. I'll never forget.

Many years later my mother recalled the same party. Late that night a young sergeant cornered her on the stairs to the only bathroom in the house. "Uh oh," she thought. "Here we go..." He leaned into her and said, "Don't worry about your husband, ma'am. Nothing's gonna happen to him. We're gonna make sure." And with that he turned around and walked away and was true to his word.

The Friday Belt - DAKS & The Penguin

The Penguin

The Rooster

DAKS

Discovered in the back of my closet. I swear.

Still on the wagon and belt less. This was going to be about Perrier versus Pellegrino. I like Perrier as a mixer because the bubbles are bigger (swear to God). I like Pellegrino by itself because it's so much softer. Either way, they both go flat in a heart beat. And there's nothing worse than drinking flat seltzer water. I heard about making your own seltzer and did a little digging. /div>

The Penguin, in the Williams Sonoma shot up there, looks like a good deal. The opening mechanism reminds me of gullwing car doors and you can adjust the bubbles. In NYC you can use tap water -- which I don't recommend in Philadelphia. The European seltzer makers are slick looking but run north of $1,000 while the Penguin is $199. Knowing my readers are made up of only the most erudite and sophisticated people -- I have to ask... Has anyone pulled the trigger on a Penguin?

In the late 60's the Rooster Tie was everywhere. And it was the tie to give and get for Christmas. At least in my families circle of friends and relatives. Uncle Clyde gave me one and I gave one to Uncle Clyde...or was it Canoe cologne? I dunno. Anyway, I'd love to tell you this was in the back of my closet. Really... So, I will. This was in the back of my closet because I'm not stupid enough to see it in a tony NYC vintage store on 23rd Street and pay $45 for it. Not me, man.

About the time Rooster Ties were all the rage - - there was the beltless Sansabelt slack. Made by those two famous designing sisters, Polly and Esther, they were particularly revolting in a light blue favored by men who paired them with white patent leather loafers. The DAKS (from "Dad" and "Slacks") waistband was created by the Brit, Alec Simpson in the early 30's and has nothing to do with Sansabelt. It's a favorite detail at Alan Flusser's shop and is popular with corduroys from the UK. There will always be that friend who will point and laugh at DAKS but these are the people you keep around for your own personal amusement.

Army Watches Madras

NYC - Summer 1985

Army "Issue" Watch with J Press Strap

Getting old always has its moments. 23 years ago and this picture tells me a couple of things I remember and some things I don't. Take the watch. I think it was a Hamilton. Not sure. Positive it wasn't Army issue. Very few of these Olive Drab watches were ever issued or I never figured out how to get one. I went off post and bought this one for $10 or so at a Surplus store in Fayettville. US Government lock sets were another story. An Army buddy helped me with the paper work. "Sgt Tintin requires a lock set to secure his personal belongings." Personal use is a big no-no but Sgt. Murphy told me no one ever read the requests for lock sets so it didn't matter.

That's a J Press strap. Blue and Yellow. My favorite colors. I'm wearing it on my right wrist because, and I'm guessing, the creeping crud I picked up in Panama during Jungle Expert School was making it's scheduled summer re-appearance wherever metal touched skin. I do remember the Rolex Sub was in for an overhaul. It stayed with the jeweler nine months because I couldn't afford to pay the repair bill. When I finally went in to pick it up this guy asked me, "What, did you forget about it?" Hardly.

The Madras shirt was Jos. Bank when they still had some soul. The great thing about Madras, then and today, was it carried huge Trad-Nads while being cheap as all get out. Something important to remember while working as a GS-5 for the Park Service. Although, what is in those Macy's bags is anyone's guess. Hopefully underwear.

Topsiders of Shame

Ralph Lauren Topsiders - The Shame

Found these last year on sale. Hunter green with red and yellow trim. Ralph Lauren and made in the US of A. Asking price was $35o before being marked down to $100. I should'a bought two pair...I'm wearing these out. A beautiful shape unlike any topsider I've ever owned. Very comfortable. I salute the designer and must find out which US company made these. Hey, Tater! Have any G-2 on these? I'm looking for a life time supply.

29 Years Ago

Army Leave & Earnings Statement

Driving gloves & Pendleton Shirt

18 May 1980 was my ETS (Estimated Termination of Service) date although the actual date was 17 May. It was one of the happiest days of my life. I was to start college in September and had an entire summer with a Fiat X1/9 in Florida. Things were looking up.

The Fiat had a seat belt monitor that could also tell when I had cash in my wallet...which is when it broke. I had to hustle for college loans, basic education grants, the GI Bill and two part time jobs to pay for my first year of college while working the summer as a midnight to 8:00AM security guard at Marine Land.

The Pendleton flannel shirt was from the Ft Bragg PX and I don't even wanna know where those gloves came from. The Fiat (Fix It Again Tony) was a complete piece of crap that many years later friends in London would laughingly tell me, "You owned a Hairdresser's car, mate."

The Leave and Earning's Statement lists Jump Pay at $55.00 a month. Unchanged since WWII when fifty five bucks could go a long way. Still, the "Laundry" or Quarter Master Laundry was a steal. All laundry was done for $8 a month although jeans were always starched which pissed me off to no end but seemed to make the guys from Texas happy.

Soon there will the same number of years (31) between the end of WWII and when I enlisted in the Army. These calculations kill me.

The Friday Belt - London with Sun

Side Tabs & Democrat Links

The Ginger Beer Challenge - Regatta vs Barritts

We can all use a day of abstinence. And it's nice to go a day without a belt. I fell in love with side tab trousers working in London. A unique bit of tailoring usually associated with bespoke but more and more found off the rack. Perfect with braces or without.

Brits are fond of this detail where they add a clean line to their tall and butt-less bodies. I've never seen more men with less 'ass' than Brits. And they always have that haircut from 1977. Long and shaggy with side burns I haven't seen in 30 years. Shirts are always double cuff and the suit linings are bright red or hunter green. God, they know how to have fun with clothes...and they never talk about US sports...and for those two reasons alone - - I love them. Those links you see were found at Paul Stuart in Chicago. Just before an election a few years back and while they had plenty of the Donkey links --they were sold out of the elephant links. Go figure.

Bermuda is London -- but with sun. A drink that tastes like the sun, a sailboat and sex on a beach is the Dark and Stormy. Goslings Black Seal Rum and Barritt's Ginger Beer with a squeeze of lime is the Dark & Stormy. It is an amazing cocktail and has recently found favor with the hip. There are too many restaurants in NYC who will make you a Dark and Stormy with Canada Dry ginger ale and Myer's Rum. That's just obscene. These philistines are screwing around with a formula that is perfection.

Barritts is tough to find. But go to their web site and give the company a call and you'll have a damn good chance of talking to Bruce Barritt like I did. A great guy who told me where I could find his sweet nectar of the gods. Then there's this other stuff called Regatta. It's easier to find but I've recently done a comparison between the two. Regatta mixed with Goslings sucks. How's that for a Robert Parker review? But Regatta alone is a better ginger beer than Barritts. I don't know how but if you're abstaining -- you're ok with Regatta. Loooooonnnnngggggg pause--- But who in the Hell would ever drink ginger beer without Goslings?

Ersatz Trad

"It is the manufacturer who has the bad taste, it is he who believes that this bad taste is what other people want. Tradition is destroyed and replaced with nothing. What is culture but a sense of the past continually revivified in their present act. " Cecil Beaton in The Glass of Fashion

Infant Trad

The Trad wearing a Charvet bowtie

The question was asked, "How long have you worn bow ties?" Not in the womb but shortly after.

Friday Belts- Mystery Strap & Bushmills

A J Press tartan strap and Bushmills White Label

See the damage done to that bottle over last winter? Not too bad. I'm good with Bushmills. I tend to sip it. With a little ice. It's clean, crisp and dry (and cheap). A nice diversion from a smokey Scotch or Rye. The distillery has been around since 1608. Pairs well with cold roast beef and horseradish on a Sunday afternoon. Jameson Irish Whiskey (ahem) is another story. I do not keep it in the house because of the evil it can do. Especially when combined with Guinness. For me, Bushmills is like drinking with a very attractive nun...I'm enjoying myself but there's not a lotta trouble I can get into.

Ken Bruen, the Irish crime writer, has a cautionary tale of an ex-cop turned private detective in Galway. 'The Guards' is a stumbling haze of Jameson chased with Guinness and a lotta punches. It's a ragged hangover crime noir that is best read with the Saw Doctors playing in the background.

Like a lot of Mr Bruen's books...that tartan strap is a mystery. There's a J Press label on the back and a logo stamp as well but no country of manufacture. I found it a year ago at the Daffy's on East 57th street for ten bucks. I never saw this belt at Press or in their catalogs so I assume it's dead stock - - But what's J Press doing at Daffy's? Where was it made? And who cut the Daffy's deal? I think there's a helluva story here. A story about a retail private eye.

DEAD STOCK by Tintin

It was hot. Too damned hot for the cordovan loafers he was wearing but too damned late to think about it now as he rounded Madison and headed north for the sit with the Japanese at Press. He pulled at his oxford cloth collar and cursed at himself for tying the madras bow too tight. 'They're gonna think it's a crummy pre-tied' he thought as the hammers banged around his head. He had one too many Bushmills at the King Cole last night with that hottie buyer from Ralph Lauren. 'What kind'a parents name a kid, Bunny?' he thought. 'Well...at least it suits her.'

Bow Ties & Erections

Tom Davis of Brooks Brothers Photo by Garda Tang as seen in Mr Classic by Jeremy Hackett

Bow Tie and Double Breasted Blazer

The Wall Street Journal (I bought two in my life) ran a story on bow ties being hip. I'm seriously looking at selling every bow tie I own. And I have a few. Bow ties are difficult to figure out and certainly this Journal reporter who covers the gaming industry isn't going to help you. Neither will I for that matter but I don't get paid to write about bow ties.

I do have a theory about bow ties and I know for a fact I've given them much more thought than Ms Binkley. In the right place at the right time with the right suit or jacket --they reflect a traditional look that men envy and women adore. Check out Mr Tom Davis from the Madison Avenue Brook's Brothers in that top shot. Tom nails it with a 5 pound sledge.

It doesn't hurt that Tom's a southerner but the bottom line is - - Tom's doing the bow tie with an erudite casualness that's brilliant. No swivel back cuff links here. Instead, double links tastefully small. While I'm not a pocket square fan I salute Tom for his plain white kerchief. And then there's that bow tie. Looks like a rep. Can't tell for sure but you get where I'm going. This man does not look like Pee Wee Herman and every other dolt who looks like Pee Wee in his pre-tied, way too long, tightly tied bow.

Below Tom is a bow I tied this morning. The mistake I made when I first started this bow tie thing years ago was adjusting the tie based on my neck size. I have a 16 neck but I adjust my tie to a 14 and sometimes even 13.5 resulting in a smaller tie. The sloppiness of the bow assures one and all it is not a pre-tied. I mean, there's no doubt someone tied this and most likely it was with a hangover.

Lastly, it helps to be older. I understand David Sedaris opined that a bow tie announces to the world you can no longer get an erection. That's cute. I've never been on the receiving side of erections so I assume David is speaking from his personal experience. As a straight man familiar with only one erection...mine...Mr Sedaris is -- for the time being (knock wood) -- wrong.

Orange & Green for Spring

Tulips on Park and 58th

Nice day last week. A reminder of more orange and green shirt/tie combinations for this Spring. If it ever stops raining.

Friday Belts: Blood Orange Oars

Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur and J Press Oars

Start rowing
I'm pretty new to Blood Orange Liqueur but have known the 'Crossed Oar' belt from J Press for donkey years. Lets get the Oars outta the way.

A simple design that's pure Trad in every way. The colors are perfect. Navy, maroon and yellow. The crossed oars form an image I associate with boat houses in Philadelphia, Princeton Crew teams and the J Crew catalog of the 80's. It's an elegant looking belt and made more so by the whopping $28.50 J Press charges. That's a lot of belt for under 30 bucks.

There was the kind of guy in college who I associate with this belt. A good 30 pounds overweight due to heavy beer consumption - - His hair was longish and slightly wavy. He smoked Marlboro's, drove a jeep and went to Cozumel for Spring Break. His family had money and you knew he had zip to worry about...other than DUI's. You found out at alumni he was working as a chef at a tony Aspen restaurant when he was busted for buying cocaine from two undercover cops. And he probably was wearing this belt.

Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur is a stand in for any orange liqueur only better. I'm told it makes a better Magarita but I'm not Magarita fan. I was introduced at Gramercy Tavern where I had a Rye and Shine. Rittenhouse Rye with Solerno and fresh squeezed OJ. Very tasty. I've had it with Pelligrino and with Aperol and soda. This weekend I hope to have it with Prosseco. And while it costs more than the belt - - one hopes it will last 'cause it's such a great looking bottle. Complete with a juicer punt bottom. Can I say that?