tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post2740982307578323229..comments2024-03-19T14:51:21.425-04:00Comments on The Trad: Fashion Week: Gant by Michael Bastian F/W 2011tintinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13652066200071703445noreply@blogger.comBlogger27125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-690106909050073322011-02-27T13:31:59.086-05:002011-02-27T13:31:59.086-05:00Glad to see Michael got rid of the fake lacrosse i...Glad to see Michael got rid of the fake lacrosse imagery from last year's line (screamed Abercrombie to me). Also agreed with the LL Bean Signature line, was not very impressed and it was a squandered opportunity. Hope they can shape it up. Nice writeup.Tony (College Trad)https://www.blogger.com/profile/16275374521874491978noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-76666936038954187532011-02-17T22:22:26.683-05:002011-02-17T22:22:26.683-05:00Refreshing to hear someone tell it as he sees it, ...Refreshing to hear someone tell it as he sees it, without being concerned about ad revenue, partnership, payola, and so on.The Sluice Boxhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05690131122921350509noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-65684980749841206692011-02-17T21:34:49.607-05:002011-02-17T21:34:49.607-05:00SWOON!SWOON!My Affair with Michael Bastianhttp://affairwithmb.wordpress.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-65582818007829153182011-02-17T20:56:26.349-05:002011-02-17T20:56:26.349-05:00Calling clothing that looks like this pretentious ...Calling clothing that looks like this pretentious us pretentious.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-23911604736908844962011-02-17T19:39:32.909-05:002011-02-17T19:39:32.909-05:00"Bru- I love Press. But they've been down..."Bru- I love Press. But they've been down some odd roads recently and I'm clueless as to why."<br /><br />Tintin: to me they are a venerable business feeling their way towards strategies that will ensure their survival in today's fluid retailing environment. Last year I bought a couple of their what I call Picasso knit shirts and happened to bump into some Frenchman from Brittany who told me how wonderful they were. So I cut them some slack. Same with BB.Brummagem Joehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00998868549766033751noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-49695973525547769162011-02-17T19:27:47.381-05:002011-02-17T19:27:47.381-05:00Total pretentious crapola. The clothes and not yo...Total pretentious crapola. The clothes and not you Tintin.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-18981509624224287762011-02-17T17:00:15.423-05:002011-02-17T17:00:15.423-05:00Splendidly modish.Splendidly modish.Unashamedly Crapnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-84668449262230089382011-02-17T15:27:34.922-05:002011-02-17T15:27:34.922-05:00I love (1) Alice Olive's photographs and (2) t...I love (1) Alice Olive's photographs and (2) the women's striped turtleneck.<br /><br />I might even pay $125, if no one was looking.....but then again, maybe I'd wait for the sale.Patsyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02840629057159581688noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-57795701602311681102011-02-17T14:54:03.692-05:002011-02-17T14:54:03.692-05:00Tin,
Ouch, buddy. A little credit, please, just a...Tin,<br /><br />Ouch, buddy. A little credit, please, just a little.<br /><br />I only said a gingham double breasted gingham jacket with patch pockets was cool, which it is, in theory. And it's not only the picture I'm going on. It's described as 100% cotton and it costs $550. The Urban Oufitters stuff was cheap in quality as well as price. I doubt press would take five bills for a piece of garbage, no matter how weird things have been getting over there.<br /><br />I agree with Brummagem Joe about choosing what's tasteful and what's not. That piece just might be tasteful. The pacth covered rugby most certainly is not, and I'm willing to rely on the picture for that, no matter what it's made of or what it costs.<br /><br />p.s. my word verification for this comment was "tizies", which is exactly what we tend to get inot over this stuff. Funny.Giuseppehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11582043853388196139noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-2997169294351027592011-02-17T14:31:15.934-05:002011-02-17T14:31:15.934-05:00Bastian put a giant lacrosse player on a polo shir...Bastian put a giant lacrosse player on a polo shirt so I think it's safe to ignore him. <br /><br />The Gant Rugger stuff is nicer -- better patterns -- and considerably cheaper.JBhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02097811981453459404noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-79685268218845808802011-02-17T14:01:01.097-05:002011-02-17T14:01:01.097-05:00The Made in China thing is starting to get very ti...The Made in China thing is starting to get very tiresome. Bean embraced this flawed strategy years ago and their Signature line is completely handicapped by this. But it is frustrating to find crappy Made in China stuff in Brooks Brothers, Barbour, and other places where one expects better...Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-80259699109536131722011-02-17T14:00:14.058-05:002011-02-17T14:00:14.058-05:00Love the glasses, amazing shapes.
www.styleisalway...Love the glasses, amazing shapes.<br />www.styleisalwaysfashionable. blogspot.comAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16645816083163618975noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-40931078854367225112011-02-17T13:58:25.334-05:002011-02-17T13:58:25.334-05:00I love the womenswear (esp. when it's so lacki...I love the womenswear (esp. when it's so lacking in the Trad sector). I wish I could offer a more eloquent response but I can't help but only gush about how beautiful everything looks. I have to agree on your commentary on L.L. Bean Signature though.Joyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09749027762662012409noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-12873222287479071832011-02-17T13:17:18.892-05:002011-02-17T13:17:18.892-05:00I think the J Press-UO collaboration looks much b...I think the J Press-UO collaboration looks much better than the afore mentioned collection but opinions are like bosses, everyone has bad ones.<br />I have not seen the Urbo press collection first hand though. I live three blocks away from an UO but I know if I went in there I'd come out rockin a sweet pair of jeggings and it would not be fair to all the other 49 year old guys. Seriously though I do not understand this fad for wearing your clothes too small. I did not like the slim fit look in the 70's and I was slim. It reminds me of Oui magazine, but not the good parts of Oui magazine. It reminds me of the 70's era ads for Camel cigarettes and their advertisement character, "The Turk", he of the rakish unironic mustache and unbuttoned silk shirt.twent years from nowthe skinny fashions will draw smirks and cringes just like the clothes worn by the formerly iconic :) Turk do today.Unclelooneyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01921109771392076745noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-2832208612032461852011-02-17T12:49:32.576-05:002011-02-17T12:49:32.576-05:00I just saw someone walk past my desk who was wear...I just saw someone walk past my desk who was wearing a V neck sweater with no shirt underneath; yes really. For the huge majority of the population Gap might as well be J Press. I'm not sure if there is viable market for some of these collections.Unclelooneyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01921109771392076745noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-56811972537761651982011-02-17T12:38:36.668-05:002011-02-17T12:38:36.668-05:00Tintin, I agree with your points and you stated th...Tintin, I agree with your points and you stated the case well. I am just starting to feel my age these days and Its making me grumpy.Oyster Guynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-5881510938533178152011-02-17T11:28:06.384-05:002011-02-17T11:28:06.384-05:00Fergus- Bean's PR firm in NY showed me the lin...Fergus- Bean's PR firm in NY showed me the line which taught me to never praise before I was able to actually see it and feel the goods. <br /><br />Giu- See? You're exactly what I'm talking about. You're basing your impression on a picture and a pretty lousy one at that. It could be made from wax paper and toad shit. You should see it up close. I'll ask Press if I can look at some if it but at this point I'm not sure how that'll be received.<br /><br />Bru- I love Press. But they've been down some odd roads recently and I'm clueless as to why.tintinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13652066200071703445noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-29548013463718344392011-02-17T10:48:26.300-05:002011-02-17T10:48:26.300-05:00Btw stop beating up on JP. I agree some of their C...Btw stop beating up on JP. I agree some of their Cremieux creations are bit iffy but then so were some of their ultra trad items. You just have to pick and choose. Some things are tasteful and work, some things are not tasteful and still work (and vice versa)...it's all a moveable feast isn't it?Brummagem Joehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00998868549766033751noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-89659011925529241862011-02-17T10:43:29.489-05:002011-02-17T10:43:29.489-05:00Some nice "looks." Anything that raises ...Some nice "looks." Anything that raises standards it to be applauded. And I agree that clothes are about about feelings. A magnificent silk/wool Mughal print scarf I'd ordered from Drake arrived yesterday. Sensuous.Brummagem Joehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00998868549766033751noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-9147870613229918142011-02-17T10:42:04.931-05:002011-02-17T10:42:04.931-05:00I'll give Bastian this: he managed to keep thi...I'll give Bastian this: he managed to keep things youthful without being childish, which is kind of how I always saw Gant as a brand in the first place. The oldsters may twist and turn about the details, but I'm glad to see this kind of thing encouraging a youger group of guys to dress a little better. THis stuff is cool and hip, but it's got plenty enough in common with it's ancestors to serve as a "gateway drug" to the more tried and true stuff.<br /><br />Bean signature would have done better to just release a catalog containing only Maine hunting boots, ragg wool sweaters, boat 'n totes, fishing rods and tents, along with home spun stories of the Maine wilderness...you know, their signature.<br /><br />The J.Press collabs are are nearly surreal, as in I can't believe them. But I must admit, the gingham check DB jacket in Cremieux collection is pretty cool.<br /><br />p.s. nicely done, Alice.Giuseppehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11582043853388196139noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-43285095639292286992011-02-17T10:30:03.992-05:002011-02-17T10:30:03.992-05:00Oyster-
Back in the early '90s and for reasons...Oyster-<br />Back in the early '90s and for reasons too complicated to go into -- I was fortunate enough to attend a number of runway fashion shows for women. Loud thumping music, wild lights, beautiful girls...I was a fan. But I always asked my date who would wear any of it? And she would explain it's fashion. Which I've admitted to knowing zero about.<br /><br />I don't expect any man, gay or straight, to copy these looks. It's overboard 'cause it's a fashion show. But to wear a piece. The POW sport coat. The overcoat, the headband...Worn alone these speak to a style I like.<br /><br />I'm sure there was some major inspiration going on design wise. But it was done with good taste and restraint as opposed to the J Press - Cremieux Rugger that is loaded down with patches and crap. There's even a Blue Angels patch for pete's sake.tintinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13652066200071703445noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-27703211808988246592011-02-17T10:14:56.495-05:002011-02-17T10:14:56.495-05:00Agree that LL Bean Signature missed the mark, I...Agree that LL Bean Signature missed the mark, I've a few pieces and they are distinctly underwhelming. <br /><br />I think Gant Rugger (as against MB for Gant) nails what LL Bean Signature was aiming for and at a similar price point.Fergushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11122611142125335045noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-72232688235005013402011-02-17T10:12:09.214-05:002011-02-17T10:12:09.214-05:00I am getting old. Polo Ralph Lauren did that Navy ...I am getting old. Polo Ralph Lauren did that Navy & Red Shaggy wool Shetland back in 1985. Cables to boot. I still have it but with a few moth bites. It was also available in yellow and blue. I young fellow has to get it from somewhere...<br /><br />I like what going on here well enough but I don't want to like it, still feels to stagey and contrived. The turned up lapel action offends me as cliche. I don't like the feeling of "look at what I just bought. It's special. I must be special too if I am wearing it" I presume the rule of never wearing more than two items from the same source at the same time is in full force. <br /><br />If I saw one of these gents approaching me in a dark alley I might attempt to defuse the situation by asking if he read ACL....Oyster Guynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-7055837694309552842011-02-17T09:07:49.460-05:002011-02-17T09:07:49.460-05:00DB- The models were fairly static but it was a mob...DB- The models were fairly static but it was a mob scene around 'em. <br /><br />I'm not sure it's fair to compare Signature to Gant by M Bastian but I was trying to make the point that Bastian had better success with tweaking the tradition while staying true and being creative. That DB moleskin shawl collar overcoat is a good expample.tintinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13652066200071703445noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1349290550527925310.post-23121028110335995602011-02-17T08:54:06.882-05:002011-02-17T08:54:06.882-05:00I'll second that: one hellava good shot, that ...I'll second that: one hellava good shot, that Alice Olive. It's always difficult to photograph a moving target indoors, let alone shifting gears to recompose and get details of said target.<br /><br />Interesting observation that the LL Bean Signature line may have been aiming for this kind of look. On closer observation though, I think that Bean's scattershot approach of appealing to ALL OF AMERICA limits the taking of chances, and therefore variety. It'll always be the smaller shops with less infrastructure and less at risk that go out on a limb.<br /><br />-DBAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com